honda_stomper Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 So I've got an lz22 on my 510. It'll run and drive with enough persuasion and feathering throttle. So I yanked the emulsion tubes and noticed something. One the cylinder closest to the front has a 135 jet on the bottom. The rest are just open ended. Ill post pics later but some insight would be awesome Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 OOOPS!!! Weber main jets are prone to falling into the bottom of the float bowl. A fix is at hand after you find them. I have been working on this cussed things for about 30 years. Keep me in the loop. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Kind of amazed that it even runs haha but new jet kit and gasket set and 2 new brass floats are in the mail so ill look in the bowl tonight to see if I can find em Quote Link to comment
nad015 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Open ended as in no main jet at the end of the emulsion tube.!! As previously said main jet probably fell off the emulsion tube, screw the emulsion tube back in the unscrew again and slowly with draw the tube. Main jet should stick. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Tried that a couple times and got nothin. Damn wish they were steel so I could just use a magnet. So im thinkin ill just turn fuel pump off and run the carbs out then see if my ultra long tweezers will work Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Put your big boy pants on, pull the carbs, take the plate on the bottom of the carbs off and fix it right. Spread the jet's ears with a razor blade, don't use a screw driver, they'll break. FYI, check the fuel pressure, NO MORE that 1.5# PSI. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Alrighty will do Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Use a steel pick and try to stab them in the middle. I use that trick to install jets all the time. The friction holds the jet to the pick until you can get to it with a screwdriver. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Alright last night I pulled them apart and found the jets at the bottom. All 135's so thats good news. But while I had em apart I let all the jets and tubes sit in my carb clean bucket them hosed em down with carb cleaner and inspected my jet holes. Reinstalled and ran like a champ. Even got it to idle around 1000 but still think the ignition timing is a little wonky so ill play with that tonight. Probably also going to remove and clean all my fuel delivery components this weekend 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Webers like 12-18* BTDC at idle and 36* TOTAL @ 2,800-3,000 RPM, all mechanical NO vacuum. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Alrighty and what would a good air/fuel ratio be? Cuz it sits around 14.1 at idle but dips down to 11at about half throttle. Thanks again guys Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Doctor 510 is right, im going through this in another thread here, ill post when i got it figured. 11 is not bad, does it stay in the 11's all the way up wide open? Low to high? If it does, maybe drop one size and accordingly on the air corrector. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Yea from about half to WOT it sits at 11 then back to 14 once closed Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Alrighty and what would a good air/fuel ratio be? Cuz it sits around 14.1 at idle but dips down to 11at about half throttle. Thanks again guys I guess the old ways are dying. In my opinion, the only real indication of proper air/fuel is the inspection of the spark plugs. There's something called a "plug cut" which is done by driving hard and then shutting it down at high RPM then coasting to a stop. Pull the plugs hot and inspect them with a magnifying glass. This is done mainly on racing motors, but high performance motors can be done this way too. The plug cut won't work for idle and low speed cruising though but it's fairly easy to get the tune right for these conditions. A/F ratio gauges are not that smart, so if you're going to rely on one for tuning, at least pull a plug once in a while and do a visual inspection. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 A/F ratio gauges are not that smart, so if you're going to rely on one for tuning, at least pull a plug once in a while and do a visual inspection. To be precise you would need one for each cylinder. The A/F gauge reads all cylinders mixed together. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Right. One for each cylinder. More precision could be got from a wideband O2. The most accurate readings come from EGT readings. Exhaust Gas Temp gauges aren't cheap though. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Alright so today I changed the oil cleaned the spark plugs and then set the timing from 5 degrees to 15 and turned the air fuel mix screws 2 and 3/4 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Sounds like you need a beer. Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Indeed I do haha. But the car is running much better thanks for all your help guys Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Right. One for each cylinder. More precision could be got from a wideband O2. The most accurate readings come from EGT readings. Exhaust Gas Temp gauges aren't cheap though. It is a wideband O2 that is on the car with the sensor mounted right after the Y pipe. I think your main issues are stemming from the carbs being messed with by someone who didn't know what they were doing, ie: the guy I sold it to. I'm happy to hear you have it back to where it was, now you can focus on making it better. 1 Quote Link to comment
honda_stomper Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Yea I still would like to get the gasket set for it and pull it all apart and clean it cuz its still dripping gas at idle and the fuel pressure regulator is turned all the way down. maybe it is about to go bad or somethin. But for now its running really well and even idling around 1000 which I thought would never happen with that cam haha. Can't seem to figure out how to post pics for you guys tho Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Photobucket Quote Link to comment
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