difrangia Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 The 320 pickup belched up its powertrain several days ago for a rebuild. I got the shortblock on the bench today and went inside to complete the teardown. I have a couple of questions and it probably won't be the last. I've been through a number of rebuilds of various engine layouts from one cylinder Briggs to two cylinder FIAT to V8 Chevy and basics is basics. Every engine has a few of it's own special issues during teardown and build-up. Here are a couple on these older pushrod Datsuns that I could use a pointer on: I have the lifters and oil pump out. I'm a bit stumped on getting the distributor drive shaft out. It seems loose with a little bit of wiggle on the dizy end but won't move lenially out of the dizy hole. I've tapped on the shoulder just inside the crankcase wall with a wood dowel and it wont move outward with either the cam in place or withdrawn out of the block just enough to move the dizy drive gears out of mesh. I don't want to break anything. What am I missing? On the top side: I'm going to have the cylinders re-bored. Do I just remove the head studs by unscrewing with a stud extractor or double-nutting, then re-install when it's time for the head to go back on? Thanks in advance for any pointers. steve Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Check with your machine shop. They might prefer that you leave the studs in so that they can use them to attach a stiffening plate as part of the reboring job. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I'm guessing that the oil pump/distributor spindle is like the L series and drops out with the oil pump. Or downward. The studs shouldn't be too tight that you can't double nut them to remove. Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 One problem solved. Mixed up a good stiff Jack Daniels and took a twenty minute break. went back and did a bit of closer studying and scraped away a bit of fifty year old crud and found a dizy base ferule held on with one flathead screw. Took that out and, Wham, dizy shaft slid right out. Then the cam came out right behind it. Think I'll zip out the head studs and upend the block and dig out the crank and pistons. Block has a good little ring groove but I've scrounged a couple oversize sets of pistons. just gotta determine the smallest OS that will work. Here is photo of the dizy base in case someone runs up against the same wall and searches this up: I'll be asking more questions and posting more photos of this rebuild. Steve Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I know it is too soon, but when you get to reassembly, these photos may help: https://www.flickr.com/photos/53116286@N07/sets/72157624963500879/ Keith Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Keith, I have all your helpful posts saved and also 'Lil Truckie' over on NICO 320 forum. You & Truckie have been invaluable during the ten month part and information gathering phase of my project. The goodies don't grow on trees; it's a matter of having an idea what to look for and snatching it when it goes by. The information that is not in old parts and shop books is virtually non-existant on these half century old jewels. Thanks to all of you for help and parts that you all have afforded me on the 320 and 620 projects. By-the-way, the head studs are out and she's standing on her head. Next step, crank out and then its miserable clean-up time. Steve Quote Link to comment
datsunrides Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 If you find your rocker arm bushings and shaft are worn, the MG stuff is a direct replacement. On the bushings, you need to drill the oil holes and also ream the bushings to fit. Are you keeping it a stock rebuild or trying to get a little extra out of it? My understanding is you can use a MG performance cam so long as you use the MG oil pump gear. Zed, you can eat off that motor! Mark Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 If you find your rocker arm bushings and shaft are worn, the MG stuff is a direct replacement. On the bushings, you need to drill the oil holes and also ream the bushings to fit. Are you keeping it a stock rebuild or trying to get a little extra out of it? My understanding is you can use a MG performance cam so long as you use the MG oil pump gear. Zed, you can eat off that motor! Mark Thanks for that info. I haven't broken the head down, but just a little wigglin around and the rockers don't seem too loose. Plan at present is 1.5mm overbore and a Weber carb. On the cam, it seems that I've read that the Brit oil pump and dizy drive gear on the cam may not be compatible. I had gathered a possible source for a cam re-profile. Maybe the profile on a warmed up British cam would work?? I know of a cam guy that I intend to quiz a bit on it. Plan on keeping the stock valves (new). Just a little bump in performance would be welcome. Just nothing too rad. Probably would't take a lot to get 10% or so uptick. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Did not know this. Good info. Seen a few J 13s never had one. Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Current plan is to use as much peripherals that are common to my 78 620 pickup as possible. Included in the plan is the remote module electronic distributor (per the Klotz/Wayno ;320), same alternator, and possibly the same starter. I could then keep spares on the shelf that would service both truks and all would be nice updates for the 320. Transmission is getting changed from column to correct 65 320 pickup floor-shift unit. Rear axle will get pumped up in ratio (probably 4:11 from 79 620) and maybe front discs in the next stage. Finding all the info on what I'd need for the trany swap and then putting my hands on it have been a real pig-slut. I'm still short one or two parts but hot on the trail. As this progresses, I plan on doing a build thread with photos. Steve Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 What makes you think your 65 Datsun 320 didn't come with a column shift transmission, lots of them came with column shift transmissions. Current plan is to use as much peripherals that are common to my 78 620 pickup as possible. Included in the plan is the remote module electronic distributor (per the Klotz/Wayno ;320), same alternator, and possibly the same starter. I could then keep spares on the shelf that would service both truks and all would be nice updates for the 320. Transmission is getting changed from column to correct 65 320 pickup floor-shift unit. Rear axle will get pumped up in ratio (probably 4:11 from 79 620) and maybe front discs in the next stage. Finding all the info on what I'd need for the trany swap and then putting my hands on it have been a real pig-slut. I'm still short one or two parts but hot on the trail. As this progresses, I plan on doing a build thread with photos. Steve Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Is this the J13 like in the 520s?? If so get the J13 4 speed for it. It's the same as the 521/620 and 510 4 speed but for the bolt pattern. Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Wayno, I've really never considered that some 1965 320's were not built with the column-shift setup. It's that most of the 65's that I've seen on the net have been floor shifters. I've seen 64's with floor shift; factory built or owner changeovers, I don't know. I can envision Nissan, knowing that the production of the 320 would come to an end in the Spring of 65, would be using up all the 320 column shift stuff that was on the shelves as it would be unusable on the 520. Therefore, I’m sure that 65 pickups were built with the column shift. Whether the choice of shifting method was an option or ‘what you see is what you get’ in the showrooms in late 64 and 65 320’s is anybody’s guess, until someone comes up with solid information otherwise. The top-load trany that was used in the last of the 320's (in 65 and probably late 64) was carried over into the 520 pickup production to approximately September 65 production. At this point the change was made to the four-speed trany with the stamped sheetmetal bottom pan. I’m not familiar enough with 520’s to know how this was handled with regards to the cab floor pans. The bottom pan trany shift lever is 4-6 inches further rearward than the top-load trany. A look at a 65 built 520 and a later build truck with the floor mats out would tell. I’m curious and would like to know if someone has access to a pile of 520’s. I’d bet good money that the top-load trany will only be found in single headlight (per side) 520’s. In addition, I'm thinking that these approximate transmission change-over dates would apply to the sedans?? For me, the chore of changing my 320 from column to floor shift goes on, with just a couple of pieces left to the puzzle. I’ve located no one who can say do this, find that part, you can use this with a little modification, etc. These people are just not around anymore. Additionally, I’m located in the middle of the country where vintage Datsun stuff, damn, any Datsun stuff or info, is nonexistent. The internet is my main resource which has connected me up with primarily Ratsun and other sources. Again, I want to thank all of you here on Ratsun who’ve helped me with parts and info over the past couple years. Any info or dates that I have posted are result of my internet research, phone conversations, and a couple of actual visits to Datsun owners. I stand ready to be corrected and welcome any additional information pertinent to any of these issues. Thanks again. Steve Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Wayno, I missed it when I first read your post, but our 320 is titled 64 but it's characteristics indicate a 63 build. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 So what are you missing for your conversion? Wayno, I missed it when I first read your post, but our 320 is titled 64 but it's characteristics indicate a 63 build. Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Wayno, Currently, I'm still short a flywheel for a 520 pickup with J13 engine and the throwout bearing carrier for the top-load trany. I have the calculated inside bore of the TO bearing carrier needs to be approximately 1 3/16" diameter or slightly smaller. My transmission has 7/8" diameter input shaft and my calculations are made from measurements relations for a 1" diameter input shaft transmission. Steve Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 What is a throwout bearing carrier? You mean the fork or collar? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 There is a 67 Datsun 520 at the local yard in my city, it likely has the flywheel still on it, I suppose I could go pull the tranny to get to it if it is still there, is this something you want me to do? BTW, it would not let me send you a message, your box might be full? Quote Link to comment
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