jboulukos Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I'm getting ready to change my motor oil and I'm interested to find out what you guys are using and what suggestions you may have. I have a 1978 B210 automatic with 150K miles on it. I drive it in weather between 50-90 degrees. What motor oil would you suggest, be specific. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I run Delo 15W40 in all my Datsuns. Yes, it's for diesels, and is high detergent, but it seems to work for me. What NOT to use is 5W anything. Too thin for old engines. 2 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 The Delo also has a higher zinc content than most present day oils. The higher zinc is more desirable for our flat tappet cams(doesn't wear them down like most conventional oils do), as many present day oils have reduced the content. I run Delo 15w-40 in all my Datsuns. 2 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Thanks Gents! Is it the one below? Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 is a premium quality engine oil designed for pre-2007 engines and higher sulfur fuels (> 500 ppm sulfur). With exceptional soot dispersancy and wear control, Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 protects cylinders, pistons, rings, and injectors against wear and corrosion, providing optimum service life and minimal maintenance. Quote Link to comment
EastBay521 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 all ive run is straight 30 in all of my motors Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Delo 400 or Rotello 50:50 mix Valvoline vr1 racing oil to cut the detergent level and keep the zinc & phosphorus levels up 1 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 all ive run is straight 30 in all of my motors Not a good idea. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Thanks Gents! Is it the one below? Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 is a premium quality engine oil designed for pre-2007 engines and higher sulfur fuels (> 500 ppm sulfur). With exceptional soot dispersancy and wear control, Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 protects cylinders, pistons, rings, and injectors against wear and corrosion, providing optimum service life and minimal maintenance. That's the one. Quote Link to comment
EastBay521 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 why not straight 30? Quote Link to comment
Mikeystoy Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 30 non detergent is bad unless your engine is a bypass filtration job, but most of those went away in the 50's. It's a little heavy cold, but even the owners manual allows for it. I run diesel oil (15w-40) or castrol gtx 20-50 and a shot of moly Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 30W is OK in SoCal. Most 30W today are API SN rated, though, so are simply the 30W version of normal multiweight. But, have the same low ZDDP levels which is "fine" for roller cam engines but not so great for wiper cams (which the L series and A series both are). I say "fine" in quoted because the extreme low ZDDP oils haven't been around long enough to see the effect they have on modern enginesm though the effect on flat tappet cam systems is well known. One of the guys I knew in the Navy used straight 30 and his explanation was that multiweight oil is simply the "light" weight with gelling agents to make the oil heavier when hot. Those break down faster than the oil does, so it turns into the low viscosity oil (10W 30 would become 10W after a few thousand miles). I don't know if that's true, but I can say that most modern "SN" rated oil I've had is like water. Especially after it's been in the engine 4000 miles. Quote Link to comment
EastBay521 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 One of the guys I knew in the Navy used straight 30 and his explanation was that multiweight oil is simply the "light" weight with gelling agents to make the oil heavier when hot. Those break down faster than the oil does, so it turns into the low viscosity oil . thats why i like the 30w. ive tries 20w50 and the 15 40 once but i feel like the 30 stays thicker longer 30 non detergent is bad unless your engine is a bypass filtration job, but most of those went away in the 50's. It's a little heavy cold, but even the owners manual allows for it. I run diesel oil (15w-40) or castrol gtx 20-50 and a shot of moly i tried non detergent once then drained it once i found out what it was for Quote Link to comment
Mikeystoy Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I've been sending my oil in and the metallurgy content has been low for a 90s enging let alone a tired 70s engine. I'm running sm-sn spec. I don't think I've ever seen an old Datsun or Toyota cam go flat. Seen a lot of domestics go though..... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Cams back then were over strong because of the poor oil so they are not at extreme risk today, at least they won't were out over night, but loss of ZDDP will ruin them in the long run. Quote Link to comment
Mikeystoy Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Which is why I run moly additive Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Might there be a problem with that when it is burned and coats the rings? Moly may be good in gear boxes but engines consume oil as well. Quote Link to comment
Mikeystoy Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Never heard anything bad in anything I've read Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 I use 10W-30 Valvoline. Datsun A-series engines don't have cam problems with regular oils. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 I also use 10w30. Just because I think the 30 would circulate easier when cold, and 10 seems to be enough to lubricate an engine that shouldn't rev over 6k, ideally. I would use 20w50 but the 50 seems just too think. I like the 20w while hot so it won't burn as easily, but I feel the 10w30 is enough. I also use Mystery Oil to replace a quart. I read this really helps engines that used to use a lead based fuel, which my B was capable of. I will try to do more research on the zinc and lead levels, and all of the abbreviations used in this thread. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 The B210 engine was designed to use Unleaded gasoline as stated in the 1974 owners manual. So no worries. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 I use 10W-30 Valvoline. Datsun A-series engines don't have cam problems with regular oils. Overhead cam like the L series with rockers directly operated by the cam can't be that different than the A series with flat tappets. At least where wear is concerned. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Except that L-series sometimes have cam wear problems and A-series virtually never do. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 The B210 engine was designed to use Unleaded gasoline as stated in the 1974 owners manual. So no worries. My B can use both leaded and unleaded. Must be because it has the Federal emission, or something. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 All B210s were designed to use Unleaded. Quote Link to comment
Mikeystoy Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 No cat; could use leaded. Hardened seats for unleaded Quote Link to comment
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