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Resurrection: '72 Datsun 521


Jcooper

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You need to keep the case vent and PVC valve, before the invention of the PCV valve, one was lucky to get a 100,000 miles out of an engine, since the PVC valve engines get over 200,000 all the time, keep that system functioning the way it is supposed to, it doesn't cause any loss in horse power, and your oil will last longer, and the inside of your case will be cleaner.

Back in the old days before the PVC valve, the engine could get a half inch or more of sludge inside of it, I even have heard of people removing the oil drain plug and getting nothing out of it because the sludge blocked the hole.

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whos the dumb ass using all that blue rtv?

 

get felpro valve cover gaskets. they resuable and no rtv needed.

 

 

I see you have the mated intake and exhaust type set up.

I would get the short tube header from TopmnEnd performance and put that in instead. and get the exhaust routed.

There are soem quality issues on the short tube but its aot cleaner set up tha what you have.

 

or find a 521 exhaust man ifold with the Y pipe installed to go around the torsion bar.

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dumb ass would be me, so... newbie mistake?..do I get one of those?  and Its a fel-pro- I suppose sealing it all is what I'm used to- but thanks for the info, I'll use it in the future. I have the fel-pro gasket for the intake. I'm planning on using the same intake and exhaust set up for now. Anyway, I'm on my third 12-hour ER shift, so my datsun waits for me. I'll post more when I'm in the garage. Thanks for the hints and pointers- they are not being ignored. This whole build has been a learning opportunity.  

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dumb ass would be me, so... newbie mistake?..do I get one of those?  and Its a fel-pro- I suppose sealing it all is what I'm used to- but thanks for the info, I'll use it in the future. I have the fel-pro gasket for the intake. I'm planning on using the same intake and exhaust set up for now. Anyway, I'm on my third 12-hour ER shift, so my datsun waits for me. I'll post more when I'm in the garage. Thanks for the hints and pointers- they are not being ignored. This whole build has been a learning opportunity.  

come to think of it, the gasket to the valve cover was not a fel-pro, we reused it and used the blue rtv on it a while back. I still have the fel-pro sitting in wait for when the datsun is more road worthy. 

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MARCH 29, 2014

 

After a long work week, it's finally time to head back to the garage. Usually with my projects I try to focus on one thing at a time, but currently I feel like I'm working on 3 things at once. First off- I'm in the process of fabricating an aluminum plate for my intake to further delete un-needed emissions but leave the port open for my PVC valve. Since I am nitpicky, this process is more time consuming, but worth while in the end. Second- I've had to re-wire the harness for my tail lights. Again, long process because I like the job done right, and my father has been lending a hand with this. (anything electrical, and this guy has got it figured out.) Third- I wanted to evaluate my front end. When the datsun starts up and idles, I've been hearing random metal vibrations that annoy me. Most of the time it's due to a rusted bolt that lost half of its threads after years of water eating away at it..so today I focused on posting pictures of this process.

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metal working out some dings...and replacing some crappy bolts. (the hookah pipe providing support.)

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I left the bumper off for now. One of the brackets' bolt holes were really worn out and it was being held in on one side with washers. So, something to weld up and fix soon.

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Also- I did the ebay thing and purchased a hood emblem....from Kuwait <--candy for me.

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So yes, the night is still young, and I hope more pictures of the other previously mentioned items I'll be finishing up this weekend--- hopefully before the next snow storm nails Rapid City. 

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A common 521 tail light issue.

The wiring harness, on the tail lights attaches to the tail light metal frame.  That metal frame is bolted to the pickup bed.  The bed  is bolted to the truck's frame, and the frame has rubber motor mounts between it, and the engine, where the battery negative should be connected.

 

One way help your tail lights work is to run a wire from the stud on the tail light metal frame directly to the metal frame of the truck, and then make a short jumper wire to loop around a rubber engine mount, connecting a bolt that holds the engine mount to the frame, and the stud on the engine mount that goes to the engine mounting bracket.

 

I do not know if I mentioned this already, but there is also a dedicated ground wire from the alternator frame, going up the the negative battery cable, where the battery cable attaches to the cylinder head, AND a dedicated ground wire from the alternator frame to the voltage regulator mount.  Even if you go to an internally regulated alternator, this ground must be in place.  If it is not, the cab electrical accessories will try to ground through the throttle cable.  This will overheat the throttle cable, destroy it, and possibly leave you with a throttle stuck open.

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this is very helpful DanielC- very very helpful. My issue was that I had no tail light harness. It was chewed up, missing, rotted away- so making a new one seamed to be the best option. Seams like the ground issues are what we've been attacking so your input is much appreciated!

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March 30th, 2014. Fabrication

 

I mentioned earlier that I was planning on cleaning up the intake and the exhaust manifolds since I would be replacing the gasket matching it to the engine. (and yes, I used FELPRO). On the intake, I removed both of the studs that held on the emission bracket- which was already capped off since I did an EGR/ smog delete when the weber was installed. Today was busy getting all the gaskets set, and fabricating. I'll try to mention all it took with the pictures. 

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Working on deleting more 'extra metal'- makes working with the weber a little easier too.

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March 30th, 2014 continued:

 

Block off plate was fabricated from a piece of scrap aluminum we had at my father's shop. Using the old gasket holding the EGR/Smog assembly to the intake, we traced out a template- then drilled out the holes to match the plate, and also drilled out a port for the PCV valve. Using a tap and dye we threaded the hole for the valve and ensured it snug fit. All this work was done to make working in and around the Weber so much easier- and cleaning up the engine bay. It was installed tonight and she doesn't choke anymore- finally. 

 

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April 1st, 2014

 

Spent a few hours diagnosing why the carb backfires. Like I mentioned before, we found a rather large leak coming from the intake manifold, therefore it was fixed with a new gasket. Idle was better, but occasionally we would still get a backfire from the carb. New gaskets were also placed on the carb manifold- just for shits- again, better idle...but still that random backfire would occur. After spraying the whole intake down to check for other air leaks, we came to find out that the PCV valve tube that connects to the block had a leak. Sucks...only because we secured the intake and exhaust back onto the engine. So, now I pose a question- has anyone else had this problem and whats the best method for sealing the PCV tube to the engine block? Any suggestions would be appreciated- time for sleep at the moment, will head into the project tomorrow. Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

April 11,2014

 

So...whilst working on the 521, and drinking a few beers...and throw in some random Craigslist Ad stating "Datsun truck :$300" ...this happened. The guy stated it ran before he parked it for the winter, and then it didn't start. Drove a 14 hour round trip to Livingston, MT- loaded it up and took it back to Rapid City, SD. the same night I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb--and it fired right up. I think I scored--aside from the odd paint scheme. New build thread in the 620 section coming soon. I think I have Datsun fever. 

 

 

 

 

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well, I would have...only there seamed to be 6 layers of paint in parts and half was chipping off. So...I did some sanding and primer today. I left the doors alone for now. I will post new items on the 620 in a new thread. 521 has new parts on the way and updates will be on here soon...as well as lady shots. 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Dear lord in heaven.. I guess I need to update this thread. Also, what the heck happened to half my pictures? Anywho- here is a quick written update as of late.

 

NEW: 

- header and exhaust

- went with a completely different intake setup aside from the 'blocked off' one I was tampering with. I had the extra money and just figured why not.

- Currently finishing up swapping eternally regulated alternator setup to internally regulated set up. 

- finally scored authentic tailgate latches.

- completed wiring in tail lights.

 

PLANS FOR 2015

fix all rusted areas in rockers

- attempt to patch up both fenders, or find new ones

- place tires on the 15 inch rims I have

- possible big brake upgrade

- actually finish half of these plans

- publish all those damn photos of my gal you all wish for.

- try to figure out where my pictures on this thread have gone so you can enjoy the new photos

 

Yep.

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