Donedreamin Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hey bros can someone verify I'm good to with with 75w-90 in a 71' 521 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Has to be GL-4 NOT GL-5. The oil has to be compatible with the bronze synchronizer rings in your transmission so GL-4, or the container must specify copper, brass or 'yellow metal' safe. Don't let some collage kid behind the counter tell you GL-5 is stronger or gives better protection... it does, but this is because it contains about 50% more anti scuff agents than GL-4 and in this concentration, will over time, erode your synchros away and must be avoided. GL-5 is used in differentials and the gear teeth work in a different manner to transmit power and need superior anti scuff protection. There are no copper alloys in the differential. GL-4 is used in transmissions and steering boxes. The teeth transmit power in the same axis and do not require the same protection for the steel parts but they do for the copper alloy rings. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 thank you D-Mike for answering the same questions over and over that many of us should have spent a little time (more) trying to search on our own. Your patience it that respect is seemingly infinite and rarely goes rewarded. Yer still a twenty year ol NON-Mercan though! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 ... so I'm told. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Twenty!??? You've obviously been very very good to someone! Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Shit, Mr. Canuck can't even spell "college." Pfffff! ;) Love you Mike! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Well I am only 20 .. or so. Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 GL-4, or the container must specify copper, brass or 'yellow metal' safe. Do you think I should pm datzenmike just to be sure. I just hope it cures rat suey's wine if not I may have to spend some cheese. Get it FML! Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Ok so here ar my choices auto pride 80-90 "meets or exceeds the performance requirements for API services GL-4 and GL-5" ROAL purple syncromax Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 If it is a GL-5 gear lubricant, it probably has stuff in it that will damage the brass synchronizer rings in the transmission. Find a gear oil that is labeled GL-4, or "yellow metal safe". Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Buy the one labeled GL-4 & GL-5. Then you can use it for everything. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Bottom line... it has to be copper or 'yellow metal' compatible. If it doesn't say so... don't take the chance. YES GL-5 far and above exceeds the performance requirement rating of GL-4, but there is a reason it has a higher rating. GL-5 is used in differentials where the much different gears and increased gear loading requires an increased amount of sulphur containing anti scuff additives to protect the metal surfaces. Transmission gears are different again and do not require this much protection. In addition they contain brass or bronze syncro rings that are attacked by the high concentration of sulphur. Generally GL-4 is about 4% additives and GL-5 about 6%. 6 is 50% more than 4. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Isn't all GL-4 is "yellow metal safe"? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 GL-4 should be yellow metal compatible. It's common for collage boys behind the parts counter to say GL-5 totally exceeds the protection of GL-4... and they would be right. It does, but at the expense of our valuable brass synchros. Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 14 posts and not one tranny joke? You guys are slipping, get it? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 StaLube makes a GL4 gear oil, as does Royal Purple. Don't use the SynchroMax, use the MaxGear. Synchromax is like atf fluid. You want gear oil. OR, do what I do with all Datsun boxes. Run 10w40 motor oil. It's what my transmission builder specs and I have it in all my Datsun transmissions including the race car. (Except the automatic of course) Change it more frequently, every year or two. Still, way better, shifts nice, no worrying about active sulfur, the main component that pits brass. Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Anyone else run 10w40 in their manual trans like HRH? Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 I guess I will have to buy it on-line. My parts store only has those 2. I will check oriley and advance tomorrow. 10 W 40 I can definitely find that you are not just pulling my leg are you HRH? datzenmike I was just kidding about pm'ing obviously hope the joking tone of my first posts was not misconstrued. I am looking in to the wine noise more and it may not even be the trans (but i still want to change the fluid). I think it might be the fan clutch I cant see even how to get it off the waterpump. I wonder if the blown up 1600s water pump and fan would work on the L20B. way off topic so New threadhttp://community.ratsun.net/topic/66072-will-my-original-1600-water-pump-fitwork-on-my-tansplaned-l20b/ Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Why buy it online when your local parts store carries Auto Pride GL-4? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 If you push in the clutch, and put the transmission in any gear, with the truck parked, nothing in the transmission turns. If then you still have a whine, it is not the transmission. It could be the throw out bearing, or something on the engine. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 I guess I will have to buy it on-line. My parts store only has those 2. I will check oriley and advance tomorrow. 10 W 40 I can definitely find that you are not just pulling my leg are you HRH? datzenmike I was just kidding about pm'ing obviously hope the joking tone of my first posts was not misconstrued. I am looking in to the wine noise more and it may not even be the trans (but i still want to change the fluid). I think it might be the fan clutch I cant see even how to get it off the waterpump. I wonder if the blown up 1600s water pump and fan would work on the L20B. way off topic so New thread http://community.ratsun.net/topic/66072-will-my-original-1600-water-pump-fitwork-on-my-tansplaned-l20b/ Not even vaguely. Chuck's Gear up here in Chattaroy rebuilds probably 50% of the manual gearboxes in the area. He specs 10w40 for just about everything. Regular, plain old Valvoline 10w40 works like a dream in Datsun boxes. Makes them shift quite a bit nicer too. Gearcases don't need the high shock load oils like Datzenmike said. Diffs do, use the appropriate GL5 or GL4 in those. Plus there isn't any brass in the diffs. And if you're running an NV4500 in a Dodge, I'd probably spring for the correct fluid or some Royal Purple. For light duty boxes though, 10w40 all the way. In fact, Chuck won't warranty his rebuilds if he finds you put gear oil in it. I changed out about 2 or 3 years ago. Ran the white hardbody with Valvoline 10w40 in the gearbox, no issues. Still running the Maxima autocross car with 10w40 Valvoline, no issues, even after running it hard at autocross hanging on the rev limiter. Running 10w40 Valvoline in the red 4x4 too. Shifts WAY better than the fancy synthetic I had in it, or even the Royal Purple I used to have in it. The other part of this argument is 10w40 motor oil is roughly the same viscosity as 90w gear oil. Gear oils and motor oils have different numbers due to different additive packages. Other option is drivetrain oils like 50w would work just fine and is usually yellow metal safe for mining carts with brass worm drives, etc. Anyway, no, not pulling your leg. 10w40 in a manual gearbox is easy to come by, safe, and much cheaper than gear oil. Quote Link to comment
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