barricade88 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 The clips are warped. They dont look like it because I wa trying to pry it off. But what's that other thing? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 On your phone, go to photobucket.com, sign in, then click Upload. The app is optional, they have a web site that works fine. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 what is that silver thing though?? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 This is the hazards flasher Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 I thought the hazard was the one on the left in the picture? Is that one supposed to be plugged in to something? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Well one is the t/s flasher and the other is hazard flasher. The other one is not stock so its hard to say. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 take the part number off of it and google it, should tell you what its for Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Okay, I'll try that. Thanks guys! Now that I can post pictures I'll upload some! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 The smaller is the turn signal the larger one is for the 4 way emergency flasher. Look nearby there will be a similar two wire plug to whats on the other flasher. This is only the plug on the harness end. The other half goes to the headlight switch. Those wires need to be more secure than that. To remove the headlight switch first unplug this. Then... Pull the switch out to the headlights ON position. With needle nose pliers, grip low down on the stem below the knob, tightly, Push the knob inward towards the dash while holding the stem tightly and twist. The headlight knob will disengage and lift off, Don't loose the spring. Loosen the nut securing the stem to the dash Push switch through the dash and recover on the other side. Instalation is the reverse of this. 1 Quote Link to comment
bub510 Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 you'll want to repair the green wire in the pic of your switch. with only a couple strands of wire in there like that it is going to create resistance, which will create heat. it wouldn't suprise me a bit if that was the cause of the problem to begin with 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 i second that ^^^ Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 That silver relay looks like a flasher relay. When I got under my dash I found the originally flasher under there unplugged and an after market flasher just hanging on the end of the plug. Lazy repair long ago. Yours looks the same 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 The flashers back then were load dependent. The more lights you added, like a trailer and the flasher would speed up. If a bulb should burn out the flasher will run slow or not flash at all. Newer ones are and electronic timer set to a specific speed and will flash one or 10 bulbs the same speed. When I'm in the junk yards I grab these and put them in my Datsuns. Because they don't have to heat up to make and break contacts I think they last longer. Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 The flashers back then were load dependent. The more lights you added, like a trailer and the flasher would speed up. If a bulb should burn out the flasher will run slow or not flash at all. Newer ones are and electronic timer set to a specific speed and will flash one or 10 bulbs the same speed. When I'm in the junk yards I grab these and put them in my Datsuns. Because they don't have to heat up to make and break contacts I think they last longer.Good call, yet another part added to the "might as well grabs few while we're here list" Volvo lock knobs (240 very similar to 620 too) Grade 8 hardware After market anything (almost) Hood prop clips Factory fuel line clamps Occasional electric fuel pump if it's clean Bosch LH injectors... ...modern flasher relays I never advocate stealing so don't forget to take all these out of your pockets when you're checking out Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Thanks guys! I want to replace the whole light switch because I have gotten many over the years but I am not good with wiring. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 '75 and on are the same switch. '74s either don't have the same exact plug shape or are not the lighted knob type or maybe both. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Both. The plug is different and only 75-on were backlit. I'm not 100% sure that all 75-79 switches are the same, but as I don't have readable parts manuals I'm not sure. There were a fair number of wiring harness connector changes bewteen 74-75, and again between 75-76 and 77-78. I seem to recall that the one I had from a '77 would NOT work in my '78, but maybe that was just the turn signal switch. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted December 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Okay cool, all the switches I have are the same. The plugs are the same but te switch is a different shape Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) Ok so 1973 truck. I swapped my cluster lights to LEDs. I broke the spade off the RH T/S circuit and hard soldered the wire to the board. All new fuses in box, new T/S and hazard relays. New electronic ones that stay constant. Lower 10A fuse (close to door) Keeps blowing. When it goes, I loose t/s lights, and dummy lights. New fuse, got it working, when I pressed DOWN on the dash pad, the (dummy) and fuse went out again. Slight smell of burning? Battery grounded to engine, battery grounded to rad, headlight harness grounded to rad w/ battery. Fuse link is good. Hanes manual: 10A goes to headlight switch (which works and my dash and headlights light up) then goes to the cluster no. 4 pin no. 4 pin runs the I.L. (illumination?) on both gauges, the clock (I don't have one) and it looks like the grounds for the turn signals? I dont understand how the cluster gets power, it seems from that fuse. I understand how all the dummy lights ground out to show they are on (e-brake, low oil) but the only thing I can guess is the I.L. powers those lights? I dont know? haha Im going try swapping my old cluster in w/ filament bulbs. I am a little confused where to go now. Edited February 15, 2014 by ohmrchristopher 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 New fuse, got it working, when I pressed DOWN on the dash pad, the (dummy) and fuse went out again. Slight smell of burning? I would start here. Pushing down on the dash, blowing fuse and burnt smell narrows it down, don't you think? Take the dash cluster out and look for a pinched or bare wire. Maybe that soldering job you did? What are the dummy lights? 1 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 I would start here. Pushing down on the dash, blowing fuse and burnt smell narrows it down, don't you think? Take the dash cluster out and look for a pinched or bare wire. Maybe that soldering job you did? What are the dummy lights? ohmchristopher said [underline added] "I dont understand how the cluster gets power, it seems from that fuse. I understand how all the dummy lights ground out to show they are on (e-brake, low oil) but the only thing I can guess is the I.L. powers those lights?" Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 "idiot lights'!!! Figures. My low on coffee gauge not working on Sunday mornings. How do I fix? 1 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Ok, so because I ran a 15A fuse rather then the 10A the next thing went, the circuit on the cluster. Fixed that. I had a a body ground on the ALT Negative by mistake, I moved it back to the radiator. Now the fuse blows when I turn the headlights on. It used to blow with the truck running, so I think that was the above fix. AFTER the fuse blows, I can cycle the head light switch and I notice the t/s indicator lights *blip* When I cleaned up the wiring, I took the ground from the DIST RELAY and cut it off the light harness and ground it to the body, is this an issue? If it is Ill just have to re connect it. :/ Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I would start here. Pushing down on the dash, blowing fuse and burnt smell narrows it down, don't you think? Take the dash cluster out and look for a pinched or bare wire. Maybe that soldering job you did? What are the dummy lights? Yeah idk with the pushing down, I dont have any bare or loose wires so I think maybe it was a coincidence? Quote Link to comment
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