]2eDeYe Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 It could be loose components, bad geometry or both. Have you checked all the tie rods, ball joints and wheel bearings? May be some play in the steering box? 1 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 Probubly caster angle if all else seems tight. Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 if you move the steeering wheel just a liuttle the wheels move and turn so im not sure i think the steeering box doesnt have a loit of play its fairly tight. im wondering if its the wheeels and some sort of joint or bearing im just not sure, i wish i could get one of you guys to check it out or drive it for me up and down the streeet and help me figure it out what it is its really makmin me depressed Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 ive been workin on my white lowered 620 i built a box for the middle between heater and shifter with a passage on bottom so heater air can pass thru it but it hols my 2 speakeres and 2 tweets and tryin to shorten up my headers so they dont scrape, i havent drove the 4x4 i think the valves need adjusted bad when i revv it up its sounds like a valve shakin or rattling or hittin something, i hope its not a rod knock or anything but i think a rod knockin thats loose knocks at idle and it doesnt do that it just knocks when you get to 2000 2500 rpm or so and gets louder the higher rpm it goes Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 could that be a rod knock or could it be out of wack valve hittin the piston top or something i dont know it bums me out so i shift at low rpm to prevent that noise and ive never adjusted the vlaves on a l20b and dont no how to do it Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 people keep tellin me its the valves cuz it has full oil in it so its not low on that or anything and i am not sure when the valves have ever beeen adjusted Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 and ive had 3 or 4 people tell me its a rod bearing :( which means the motor is shot right? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 ive never adjusted the vlaves on a l20b and dont no how to do it http://community.ratsun.net/topic/16539-l-series-valve-adjustment/ :) Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 so i have a feeeling like im gonna yank my hoood tomorrow and unbolt motor from tranny and undo radiator and all the hoses and take out radiator and drain all the fluids and unbolt intake and headers and get ready to pull motor and stick motor in my shed on its side take off oil pan and valve cover and the head and fuel pump and timing cover and all that good shit and wait for friend so we can measure the crankshaft and bearing and rod bearings to see what size set of piston and piston rings and crankshaft main bearing and rod bearings i need to order so i can get ready to rebuild with the help of a few friends from the ground up!, sounds like fun right? ehh wrong, only thing good that will come of it is when its done Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 i am just gonna rebuild the whole darn thing :) any objections? Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 can anybody send me a link to a set of new valves and valve guides and valve seats or whatever? i neeed a pckage with all of them in 1 thing so i dont have to go looking around, or if you guys no a link to every single one of those that would be cool Quote Link to comment
620Turbo4X4 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 I would start with the basics before tearing the engine totally apart... Did you adjust the valves yet? How about a compression check? Is it burning oil (blue smoke)? Loose valves will be more of a ticking sound from the valve cover. Rod bearings will be a deep knocking sound that comes deeper within the engine. In the case of rod bearings failing you might be better off finding a replacement engine from a wrecking yard or craigslist since your on a somewhat limited budget. having the crank turned, rod(s) resized, etc, etc, all adds up, and can get expensive in the end. can anybody send me a link to a set of new valves and valve guides and valve seats or whatever? i neeed a pckage with all of them in 1 thing so i dont have to go looking around, or if you guys no a link to every single one of those that would be cool I doubt there is a all in one kit anymore for a L-series engine. If there is, it would most likely be cheap chinese crap. Any good machine shop could regrind your stock valves, touch up the seats, and install some new seals. if you move the steeering wheel just a liuttle the wheels move and turn so im not sure i think the steeering box doesnt have a loit of play its fairly tight. im wondering if its the wheeels and some sort of joint or bearing im just not sure, i wish i could get one of you guys to check it out or drive it for me up and down the streeet and help me figure it out what it is its really makmin me depressed Do you have a "pan hard" bar in the front? If not, thats contributing the wandering problem. My truck does not have one (yet) and wanders all over the place too. It's really bad on bumpy roads. Not enough castor will also make it wander badly too…. 1 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 A pan hard bar is a great idea . It will compensate for a bump steer issue, but will have very little effect on a wandering issue. Wander is caused by worn steering components and or poor geometry. Bad Castor angle, toe out, etc. I wish you were closer. I'd like to be of more help. As to you're rattle: Valve adjustment and timing chain would be my guess. You're head will be one of those things best handled by a machine shop. To my knowledge there are no "kit's" produced for the L series heads. 1 Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 well i always live so far and do not know anyone with a cheap motor and is a set of pistons and rings and gasket kit and main bearings and rod bearings for 150 i figured i would just have man hours into it if something was wrong and i had to put in the shop then i would but i hope most everything is alright... i dont want to have to pull it apart but i am goin to adjust valves friday and ill post and tell you guys what happened and if it went away i definanly no its the top half of the motor Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 alright thanks guys both of you for the info you guys have given me and i would like to replace some of these steering parts but dont know what to do since i cant say datsun 620 4x4 to the parts store i dont no how to get parts for the steering and what not or who to ask Quote Link to comment
620Turbo4X4 Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Your steering components will be jeep. The only thing that's datsun is the steering box 1 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Dana 30 upper and lower ball joints & tie rod ends. Tell them 1974 for the year.And CJ5 for the model. The tie rod end at the pitman arm will more than likely be a stock Datsun end from you're trucks respective year. Any parts store will have them. 1 Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 thanks 620 turbo and box car helps out a lot all of you guys includin the ones i havent named have meant a lot to me and helped me and gave me info i never would of found out i apprecaite it if you guys are ever doing anything up this way i will help any way i can or take you out ot lunch or something nice Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 my trucks a 75 should i ask them for 74 cj5 jeeep parts? except tie rod ends and breaks and other stuff of course Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 74 . And Merry Christmas brother....... 1 Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 thanks man all you guys have a great christmas to and happy new year Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 so i got it running and driving fine i adjusted the valves and still have a bit of noise on the top end of motor but it definantly quited down a bunch so i dont exactly no what the problem is :( but it does run and drive fine and would like to cruise down the freeway with ease , so pretty much i need to find 4:88 gears for the front and back ? Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 i think redeye told me that 4:88s would work great and told me to regear front axle to 4:88 and get a 320 or 520 4:88 gear set up for the h190 rear i have does that sound right? and i have a question im a noob on 4x4s now are all 4:88 gears the same? can i get the front and rear gears off one vehicle instead of gettin them from diff vehicles? , what do they cost brand new can i just buy a set of 4:88 gear for front and back from a website? would i have to type in what axlez i have tell them dana 30 s? i have dana 30s front and back right? i would like to buy a set for front and rear on website brand new can you guys send me a link or name of website to buy such gears i no i sound stupid but im really confused and at a stand still Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 The front is a Dana 30. Ring and pinion are about $160 new. Rebuild kit is $140. The rear is a stock Datsun rear axle from a 1975 620. You will have to source that from a parts house. I never use the Datsun rear so I can't be of any help with that. Quote Link to comment
tubbedbaggedstockfloored65 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 ughh idont know what to do heres the problem i started it and it was at 17 and a half volts on the meter and battery was sizzling, so i bought brand new voltage regulator and brought it home plugged it in and it started clicking real loudy and started smoking like a batt out of hell and it stayed at 12 volts when starting and runnning then like i said i noticed smoke and shut it off? any ideas what the problem is? is something shot in the alternator or is it a bad ground or something or battery is shot?. i cant stand it being down i asked for new alternator at store and its an internal regulated and i have a externally so i would have to wire it in which i hate wiring and am not good at :( what should i do folks Quote Link to comment
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