L series valve adjustment

[mklotz70]

It certainly would have been faster to simply do this adjustment without taking video. I had done a thread on NWDE with pics a couple of years ago. Figured I'd do another with vid this time. There's probably faster/better ways, but this ought to help out some first timers.

******edit 7/19/13******

 

I just found that only pics come up instead of vids......so I might as well just put the youtube link here instead. :)

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

put a link of this on olddatsuns.com or a link to it on here

[mklotz70]

Good idea. I may just try to upload it to the site :)

[mklotz70]

ppeters sent me a link to ddgonzal's archives....thought it might be a good idea to put it up here until I can get the links on olddatsuns fixed :)

 

http://ddgonzal.members.winisp.net/nwde/3582.htm

[Nas]

Do you start at TDC, and then rotate til the lobes go to the 10 and 2 position, and then begin adjusting?

[banzai510(hainz)]

you can go in any order you want just remember which ones you did.

 

I do the first one I see pointing up(any where from the 10 THRU the 2 oclock posision is fine)then go to the next one then rotate the motor clockwise and do the next one that is up. till they are all done.

 

If you cant do a a rocker(exhuast) as it wont let you get a feeler gauge under,meaning you ran out of adjustment. You know you have the 14mm ball adjustment all the way down that means your valve has sunk in the head so far that it needs to be rebuilt(new valve seat)

[Nas]

I feel like I followed these steps (in videos 1&2 and in the ddgonzal link).

When I tightened everything down and restarted, I had a little valve chatter, a sound like there was something being thrown around inside the valve cover, AND a new screeching sound when I gave it a little gas. (wtf???)

 

*NOTE*

the truck was running ok on the way to the planet of the datsuns meet.

on the way, I could hear some valve chatter starting, and when I pulled up, someone said "your valve lash is off."

I just thought...no prob, I'll adjust the valves after work.

 

on the way to work after the meet, the chatter became louder and louder to a point where I just ended up parking it at my buddies house and catching a ride to the parts store to buy a feeler gauge/ etc.

 

Im going to go out there and try again after work today, though.

[goatee]

Nas I know this is kind of old but I'd like to hear what you found out?

[Braden]

so where you actually take the measurement is inbetween where the cam meets the rocker arm surface and the bottom side of the lobe (opposite where the lobe contacts the rocker)??????

[I'm BLUE]

so where you actually take the measurement is inbetween where the cam meets the rocker arm surface and the bottom side of the lobe (opposite where the lobe contacts the rocker)??????

 

correct :D ---> I usually check 2-3 times before final tightening as well ( hot check ) and measure each on the same respective area for even lash

[Braden]

soo feeler gauge in between rocker arm and bottom of egg shaped lobe if the pointy end of the egg was standing straight up right?

[mklotz70]

yep.

 

I think we tried to get a ruling on whether it was better to do each lobe straight up, or with the same cylinder's lobes at 10 and 2. I don't remember if there was a slight difference or not. Try it both ways and let us know if there's a difference between the lobe straight up and at 10 or 2. By doing them at 10 and 2, you can only do one cylinder at a time and you'll be making large, 180 degree turns of the crank. If you're doing straight up, you'll be making small turns of the crank and doing whichever lobes point straight up as you come to them. You can do all lobes in one revolution this way.....but...you need to make sure you pay attention to whether it's an intake or exhaust valve you're on.

[hang_510]

Try it both ways and let us know if there's a difference between the lobe straight up and at 10 or 2. By doing them at 10 and 2, you can only do one cylinder at a time

ive been adjustusting them like that, and can usually do 2, 1 IN & 1 EX, on different cylinders simulatneously.

 

i always do another rotation to confirm the gap ;)

 

 

 

 

my tip: REMOVE THE TOOL ON THE CRANK BOLT BEFORE FIRING! :unsure: (my son thought it blew up :o )

[Zeusimo]

THANK YOU!! :lol:

 

The Stupid Book I Have Tells You Nothing

[d510addict]

I followed this and the job was pretty straight forward TY for posting the guide.

[mklotz70]

You're more than welcome. It was my number one hit on photobucket for quite some time. I think both months I broke the 100K mark it was the top one. :)

 

What's funny is.....it's been so long since I'd done this, when I was doing the valve adjust on jassifrass' 710, I spent about 10 min trying to figure out why the damn adjuster wouldn't budge.....then I finally remembered the lock nut!!! DOH!!!! :)

[datzenmike]

Truth was you were distracted.

[mklotz70]

yep :)

[Dirk Diggler]

Videos dont work anymore :(

 

Edit: Found other videos in your account. Thanks!

[mklotz70]

Not sure what happened with them getting changed froom flv's to mp4's, but I've fixed it now.....should come up okay. :) thanks for the heads up!!

[ninjabortion]

thanks so much for the guide. i had a blast doing mine :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EnjqdlrBgo

 

[mklotz70]

Thanks for the thanks :)

You're more than welcome. Glad it helped you. That was the point of doing the vid :)

[Twoelouie]

Someone may have already beaten me to this suggestion,back "in the day"they used to make a set of feeler gauges that were refered to as "goes-no goes"! Each feeler would start out on the tip at say 20mm and the middle would be 21mm and toward the very top of the gauge it would be 22mm! It was a whole set and they really made life easier while adjusting Z valves early on a Sat morning! On the 240's one would do a cold adjustment,warm'er up and recheck and readjust if necessary!

I would assume that those feeler gauges are still made(?) and that most of you already know of the?

[mklotz70]

I'll have to keep my eyes open for a set. I've never seen them before. It makes sense to set them cold, then recheck them hot. You can't adjust them fast enough if you try to set them hot.

 

Thanks for the additional info! :)

[DanielC]

I have used stepped feeler gauges. Usually they have a .002 difference, and a solid step. The thin part goes, the thicker does not.

If you are within .002, that is close enough. I have even ran slightly tighter, to slightly increase valve opening, but you have to check the clearance more often.

I have also found in a lot of cases, you can set cold, and most of the time the hot clearance will fall into place.