Jump to content

620Turbo4X4

Members
  • Content Count

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

68 Good

About 620Turbo4X4

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bainbridge Isl. Wa
  • Cars
    Too many
  • Interests
    4WD 620s’
  • Occupation
    Longshoreman

Recent Profile Visitors

4,183 profile views
  1. Time Left: 2 days and 20 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for JDM L18E EFI intake manifold. Any condition (preferably bare manifold, and in rough shape). Do not need injectors, TB, etc... Will be used for 2.2l turbo setup, with stand-alone Electromotive EFI. This is the last piece needed to complete this build project... Have cut down 280Z manifold that would be perfect for smaller displacement L series stand-alone build that I could possibly trade. Already modified for domestic Bosch injectors, and comes with cable type Chrysler TPS/stepper motor ISC TB. Fully ported with 1-3/8” ports... Fuel rail mounts have been finished since taking picts. Just needs a bracket made for throttle cable, otherwise ready to install...

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  2. As far as I know Electromotive has always used the 60-2 trigger wheels. Bought my first TEC II system back in 1991 What you have there with the two wide triggers 180 apart sounds to me like someone adapted a motorcycle CDI to the engine. Zeeltroincs (and a few other company's) make programmable CDIs that will work with that trigger wheel setup. I'm installing a Zeeltroincs CDI on my dirt bike. Compared to others they are very inexpensive and can be tuned with a laptop or handheld programmer. Pretty cool and simple setup.
  3. Check if the ball bearings haven't come out between vacuum advance plate and base plate. I've had this happen before. Never figured out why besides grease was dried out. I think I see one of them. Shiny thing right below top right base plate screw in photo ??? Even like this it should have still fired the plugs. (Mine did) Good chance the vibration from stator and reluctor hitting caused the pickup coil to go out. Check with ohmmeter the resistance of the pickup wires (red/black) while disconnected from the matchbox and see if you get a reading or not.
  4. On my 620 the two ground wires that go to the single eyelet by passenger headlight goes to the top radiator mounting bolt.
  5. You really need a magnifying glass to see any signs of detonation. Plus the soot you mention could very well be masking any metal particles from detonation. But anyways, a BP6ES would be considered a Hot plug for a "stock" L20b and a BP7ES cold, again for a stock engine. Perhaps the saving grace here is because it's running so rich. You shouldn't be seeing any color with "hot" plugs and correct A/F ratios with a modified engine... ( I would expect to see some electrode melting going on.) If it were mine I'd be trying the BP8's or a non projected B7ES, I had better results with the projected plugs as the insulator is more exposed which helped with low speed fouling and high speed overheating, but what works for me, might not be what works well for you.. At any rate, you'll need to get the carbs leaned out of all the excessive fuel, or the cold plugs will foul out rather quickly... Have not tuned a set of dellorto's myself, but a quick google search and I found this; http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/engine/carbs/dellorto.html Which chokes are you currently running? You said they were 36mm in a previous post. 32mm chokes are too small for a 2L engine to be happy at 6K. You should be running 36's to get good power up to 6000RPM. Also, using the choke diameter X 4 = main jet size rule, 32's should be using 125-130 main jets to be in the ballpark. Not 145's. Those would be a good starting point for 36mm chokes. Air correctors should be somewhere around +50 to the mains.
  6. No, This is all making sense to me now... Sounds like the A/F ratio gauge you were using may have been lying to you, or getting false readings. If it's running better on cold mornings with a cold engine, that's telling you something... it's running pig rich... The heat range of plug (believe I asked before), and overheating is another issue that would have been nice to know.... Your running stock plugs? If your engine is not stock, neither should be your plugs. as RPM's and compression go up, plug heat range should go down (FYI I'm running BP8ES plugs in my mildly modified L20b) The hot plugs could be acting as a glow plug and igniting the mixture prematurely. That could very well explain why engine is running hot and falling on its face...Pre-Ignition will lead to detonation, damage the engine, make it sound like crap, loose power., and overheat... Too much ignition timing will also increase engine temps (and lower EGT's). Not enough and EGT's rise, and cylinder head temps fall. Reading the color transition of the ground strap on your plugs gives the best indication of what kind of timing your particular engine likes, but only after the correct range of plug is used and A/F ratios are in the ballpark... Here's a couple articles that might help you out... http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html Excessively rich mixtures will hurt power. The fact that it's running better on cold mornings and when engine is cold is a dead giveaway to what's going on. If your tuning the carbs using plugs that are too hot, your having to add a considerable amount more fuel to the mix to see any color on your plugs. (if your even seeing a tan color?) Were these carbs purchased second hand or new? Previous owner may have had these tuned to run E85 or something.... Which, from the sounds of it, might be a good thing to try if you have E85 available locally. Or, If you want to stick with regular petrol, I would step up the air corrector jets several sizes larger, and decrease the mains, but keep in mind the air correctors have the greatest effect at the upper RPM ranges where the trouble spot seems to be. If carbs were second hand, take a good look and measurement of the jets installed. Someone may have drilled them out, instead of buying new jets....
  7. That would be my guess too. Drum type master cylinders have a 10psi residual valve. Disk type 2 psi.... Using dot 5 silicone fluid can also cause brake drag. The silicone lubricates the square o ring mike mentioned too much and does not allow the o ring to stick to piston enough for them to slightly retract. I found this out the hard way..... The wobble might be a bur on inside of hub where races bottom out. If you used a hammer and punch to remove races, theirs a good chance you might of nicked it and race is not sitting flat in the hub?
  8. Don't know how much of a drive it is for you to bremerton? I had these guys do the shocks and a fuel pump on my motorhome. http://www.peninsulafleetservices.com Labor costs were good. Can't say they specialize in Nissans at all, but they are right next to the Bremerton Nissan dealer.... I had a 1979 Datsun 620 mini motorhome with the Chinook shell. Brakes were terrible!!! Have you thought about upgrading the brakes at all? I believe late model D21 vented disks can be fit by switching spindles and hubs? Something to think about..... The swaying problem you mentioned in your first post can be made better by having a rear sway bar installed. The bigger the better...
  9. Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm leak? Un-plug and check the small line from regulator to intake and see if it wet with fuel.
  10. Doesn't really sound like a fuel pump or filter issue, But could be a supply issue if fuel pick-up tube is getting air in it. Is it worse when tank is close to empty? Plugged fuel filters usually cause problems while accelerating and going up hills...
  11. I would find something smaller. It'd never a good idea to reduce the inlets and outlets on high pressure pumps. I would be afraid of cavitation on the inlet, seriously reducing the life of pump. I prefer Bosch pumps. Never had one of the Airtex high pressure pumps, but the two Airtex low pressure pumps I had leaked fuel from the electrical connections... They are more expensive though!!! Your sure your old pump is bad? What was the problems you were having?
  12. Which pump did you buy? It's not really the pressure that will cause problems. It's the volume. Your fuel pressure will only be as high as what the regulator is set for. Typically 43.5 psi. But if the volume of the pump exceeds what your lines and regulator can flow your pressure will be all over the place and too high. You also run the risk of cavitation if pump is not able to get the fuel it needs from the small supply line from the tank.
  13. Not sure if the tranny cooler would flow enough oil. Too much restriction, and the filter by-pass on the block will begin to open. Here's the ford cooler I was talking about, Picked this up for $30 brand new off eBay.. Unfortunately, on my 620 it gets the filter a little to close to the frame rail, so I'll either need to use a shorter filter or 90* adapter....
  14. I like the Modine water to oil coolers ford used. These also fit, if you have the space... Using the coolant gets oil up to temp quicker, and maintains it a bit above coolant temps. It's not a good to have your oil too cool. not only does it add drag and rob Hp., but it's not good for oil either. If oil never gets above 212F. the water that gets blown by from combustion can mix with sulfer (another by-product of combustion) and create acids. Good info on the water pump Mike. I'm going to want that for my turbo engine. So, the pulley lines up with the L series too?
  15. I torqued mine to 12 Ft/Lbs. I couldn't find specs either. Nissan Doesn't want these removed and don't provide torque specs... The oil pump bolts are same m8 thread and similar length and call for 8-11Ft/Lbs. So I kind of based mine on that.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.