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620Turbo4X4

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About 620Turbo4X4

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bainbridge Isl. Wa
  • Cars
    Too many
  • Interests
    4WD 620sā€™
  • Occupation
    Longshoreman

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  1. Time Left: 8 days and 9 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for JDM L18E EFI intake manifold. Any condition (preferably bare manifold, and in rough shape). Do not need injectors, TB, etc... Will be used for 2.2l turbo setup, with stand-alone Electromotive EFI. This is the last piece needed to complete this build project... Have cut down 280Z manifold that would be perfect for smaller displacement L series stand-alone build that I could possibly trade. Already modified for domestic Bosch injectors, and comes with cable type Chrysler TPS/stepper motor ISC TB. EGR delete, and fully ported with 1-3/8ā€ ports... Many many hours put into this. Fuel rail mounts have been finished since taking picts. Just needs a bracket made for throttle cable, otherwise ready to install... Edit; Cut down 280Z manifold is getting installed on my truck within the next month or two, so the trade plus $ offer is off the table for now. I am still looking for the OEM JDM L18E intake manifold though... Let me know what you got sitting around, collecting dust. Cash in person (Western Washington), or money in your PayPal account ASAP. šŸ‘ Thanks, 620Turbo4X4

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    , Washington - US

  2. As far as I know Electromotive has always used the 60-2 trigger wheels. Bought my first TEC II system back in 1991 What you have there with the two wide triggers 180 apart sounds to me like someone adapted a motorcycle CDI to the engine. Zeeltroincs (and a few other company's) make programmable CDIs that will work with that trigger wheel setup. I'm installing a Zeeltroincs CDI on my dirt bike. Compared to others they are very inexpensive and can be tuned with a laptop or handheld programmer. Pretty cool and simple setup.
  3. Check if the ball bearings haven't come out between vacuum advance plate and base plate. I've had this happen before. Never figured out why besides grease was dried out. I think I see one of them. Shiny thing right below top right base plate screw in photo ??? Even like this it should have still fired the plugs. (Mine did) Good chance the vibration from stator and reluctor hitting caused the pickup coil to go out. Check with ohmmeter the resistance of the pickup wires (red/black) while disconnected from the matchbox and see if you get a reading or not.
  4. On my 620 the two ground wires that go to the single eyelet by passenger headlight goes to the top radiator mounting bolt.
  5. You really need a magnifying glass to see any signs of detonation. Plus the soot you mention could very well be masking any metal particles from detonation. But anyways, a BP6ES would be considered a Hot plug for a "stock" L20b and a BP7ES cold, again for a stock engine. Perhaps the saving grace here is because it's running so rich. You shouldn't be seeing any color with "hot" plugs and correct A/F ratios with a modified engine... ( I would expect to see some electrode melting going on.) If it were mine I'd be trying the BP8's or a non projected B7ES, I had better results with the projected pl
  6. No, This is all making sense to me now... Sounds like the A/F ratio gauge you were using may have been lying to you, or getting false readings. If it's running better on cold mornings with a cold engine, that's telling you something... it's running pig rich... The heat range of plug (believe I asked before), and overheating is another issue that would have been nice to know.... Your running stock plugs? If your engine is not stock, neither should be your plugs. as RPM's and compression go up, plug heat range should go down (FYI I'm running BP8ES plugs in my mildly modified L20b) The ho
  7. That would be my guess too. Drum type master cylinders have a 10psi residual valve. Disk type 2 psi.... Using dot 5 silicone fluid can also cause brake drag. The silicone lubricates the square o ring mike mentioned too much and does not allow the o ring to stick to piston enough for them to slightly retract. I found this out the hard way..... The wobble might be a bur on inside of hub where races bottom out. If you used a hammer and punch to remove races, theirs a good chance you might of nicked it and race is not sitting flat in the hub?
  8. Don't know how much of a drive it is for you to bremerton? I had these guys do the shocks and a fuel pump on my motorhome. http://www.peninsulafleetservices.com Labor costs were good. Can't say they specialize in Nissans at all, but they are right next to the Bremerton Nissan dealer.... I had a 1979 Datsun 620 mini motorhome with the Chinook shell. Brakes were terrible!!! Have you thought about upgrading the brakes at all? I believe late model D21 vented disks can be fit by switching spindles and hubs? Something to think about..... The swaying problem you mentioned in your firs
  9. Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm leak? Un-plug and check the small line from regulator to intake and see if it wet with fuel.
  10. Doesn't really sound like a fuel pump or filter issue, But could be a supply issue if fuel pick-up tube is getting air in it. Is it worse when tank is close to empty? Plugged fuel filters usually cause problems while accelerating and going up hills...
  11. I would find something smaller. It'd never a good idea to reduce the inlets and outlets on high pressure pumps. I would be afraid of cavitation on the inlet, seriously reducing the life of pump. I prefer Bosch pumps. Never had one of the Airtex high pressure pumps, but the two Airtex low pressure pumps I had leaked fuel from the electrical connections... They are more expensive though!!! Your sure your old pump is bad? What was the problems you were having?
  12. Which pump did you buy? It's not really the pressure that will cause problems. It's the volume. Your fuel pressure will only be as high as what the regulator is set for. Typically 43.5 psi. But if the volume of the pump exceeds what your lines and regulator can flow your pressure will be all over the place and too high. You also run the risk of cavitation if pump is not able to get the fuel it needs from the small supply line from the tank.
  13. Not sure if the tranny cooler would flow enough oil. Too much restriction, and the filter by-pass on the block will begin to open. Here's the ford cooler I was talking about, Picked this up for $30 brand new off eBay.. Unfortunately, on my 620 it gets the filter a little to close to the frame rail, so I'll either need to use a shorter filter or 90* adapter....
  14. I like the Modine water to oil coolers ford used. These also fit, if you have the space... Using the coolant gets oil up to temp quicker, and maintains it a bit above coolant temps. It's not a good to have your oil too cool. not only does it add drag and rob Hp., but it's not good for oil either. If oil never gets above 212F. the water that gets blown by from combustion can mix with sulfer (another by-product of combustion) and create acids. Good info on the water pump Mike. I'm going to want that for my turbo engine. So, the pulley lines up with the L series too?
  15. I torqued mine to 12 Ft/Lbs. I couldn't find specs either. Nissan Doesn't want these removed and don't provide torque specs... The oil pump bolts are same m8 thread and similar length and call for 8-11Ft/Lbs. So I kind of based mine on that.
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