yello620 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Looking good. Are you needing a spring compressor for the 12 inch springs? I have one local to you if you need one. Quote Link to comment
gus280z Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 holly fabbing fabman :D amazing work dude. Quote Link to comment
boonedock saints Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Nice job...looks great. Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 can you drag frame without notching the frame rails? Er, I mean it looks awesome! :D Lol....thanks. Not quite..... Looking good. Are you needing a spring compressor for the 12 inch springs? I have one local to you if you need one. Hey thanks. I think I've got it handled, but if my method doesn't work I'll hit you up. Nice job...looks great. holly fabbing fabman :D amazing work dude. Thanks guys, appreciate it. Pretty excited to get it on the ground with the correct springs. Have to redo my water pipes to the radiator in back, so won't be able to drive it quite yet. Quote Link to comment
BadWagon Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 so is it out terrorizing the streets yet? Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Not quite. Took it out for a brief test. No noises, feels good. Snuck in a launch. Felt good. Working out a brake issue. Got new calipers for the rear. One had a stuck cylinder. Figured I'd replace both. New pads as well. Need to bleed things, then see how it feels. Made the new floor. Will get some pix up when I get my laptop back from getting fixed. 1 Quote Link to comment
kawagon Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Looking good. love this car Quote Link to comment
toyota1515 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Why u didnt weld the housing tubes to the center chunk? Have u never seen those spot welds break on those 8.8? I do and when that happen it does nasty damage! Just an advise you still have time to do it! Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Why u didnt weld the housing tubes to the center chunk? Have u never seen those spot welds break on those 8.8? I do and when that happen it does nasty damage! Just an advise you still have time to do it! Well, if I was to do it properly I need to pre heat it, and use a stick welder (I've tried MIG on another axle and it was a total disaster). I guess years of running this power level with no issues so didn't give it a 2nd thought. I guess we'll see...lol. Quote Link to comment
toyota1515 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I did weld mine with mi mig welder is a Dana 60 no issues whatsoever and your welds looks pretty good, is all about where to place the heat concentration and go from there, of course as long as you have a mig that could weld up heavy gauge metal, 220v is a must for that, i guess you should be ok as long as you dont go out to the drag races with sticky tires lol! By the way keep the good work your wagon is an inspiration! Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I did weld mine with mi mig welder is a Dana 60 no issues whatsoever and your welds looks pretty good, is all about where to place the heat concentration and go from there, of course as long as you have a mig that could weld up heavy gauge metal, 220v is a must for that, i guess you should be ok as long as you dont go out to the drag races with sticky tires lol! By the way keep the good work your wagon is an inspiration! Thanks man. Yeah, I think it'll be ok. Don't plan on dragging it with slicks any time soon..lol. Got the brakes bled with the help of a friend and got some more air out. Need to go get things hot and rebleed. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Nice work man! I wanted to 4 link my old wagon. I was considering trying out some 280Z 2+2 rear seats. They look reeeeeeeallly close. Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 So. Overall very pleased with the 3 link. Hooks, soaks up bumps much better than my previous set up. 250 lb springs (slightly angled so I think they come out to a 230 lb spring rate) feel good and not too harsh. However, as will all projects...test and tune....After taking my step mom on a ride with a couple of hard launches I heard a metallic clanking sound. Car didn't drive oddly, and the clank was hard to replicate. Took it out tonight for a hard backroad session. Again, didn't feel odd which is odd in and of itself. But, when I got back to the garage the left wheel was clearly out and rubbing on the flare. Here's the completed set up. You might notice the angle of the 3rd link....bit off to the side. This is not normal. The axle is off to the left. Look to the left of the black pipes. Hmmmm. What is going on here? Uh oh. That's the inside of the frame you're seeing. This is the brace that supports the mount for the panhard bar. A lot of stress here. So...will pull the tank, weld a thick plate to the rail in that area, and then weld the support back up. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Easy enough fix at least, those side to side forces can get pretty high with some spirited cornering :) Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Might be worth boxing the rail with the appropriate size square tube or plates? Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 wtf, i thought i put this thread on watch? how hove i been missing out on 3 pages of badassness?! Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Seeing how I am wanting to do either a 3 or 4 link in my truck, I have a question: Would the use of a watts link lessen the amount of stress on ONE side of the frame and divide it between BOTH rails? Do you have room? Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Might be worth boxing the rail with the appropriate size square tube or plates? I ended up using a probably overkill 1/4 plate like...5 inches wide to the rail to fix the hole and spread the load and then welded the brace to that. Seeing how I am wanting to do either a 3 or 4 link in my truck, I have a question: Would the use of a watts link lessen the amount of stress on ONE side of the frame and divide it between BOTH rails? Do you have room? Good question. A Watts link is superior, and in a full frame truck, I'd think you'd have plenty of room. Panhards are a lot simpler, cheaper, and still effective....if braced correctly. I never thought it would rip the rail out, but you're dealing with a lot thicker metal with a full frame. Good bracing is the key I think. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 How is the handling with this setup? More predictable I'm assuming ? Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 How is the handling with this setup? More predictable I'm assuming ? So far so good. I haven't had it to an autocross, but sharp back road turns (I have some 180 degree ones around here) lead to oversteer not understeer. That's with no rear sway bar. I have an adjustable front bar that's in the middle setting. Overall I feel like the rear is more stable and predictable. Soaks up bumps way better than what I had Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Car looked great at Canby :) Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Are you running a external pump for the rad? Im curious about the setup if you are. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 So far so good. I haven't had it to an autocross, but sharp back road turns (I have some 180 degree ones around here) lead to oversteer not understeer. That's with no rear sway bar. I have an adjustable front bar that's in the middle setting. Overall I feel like the rear is more stable and predictable. Soaks up bumps way better than what I had Sounds about right. Thanks for the feedback, I'm planning on doing 8.8 and 4-link(or 3, maybe) on my wagon soon. Just getting impatient. :D Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Car looked great at Canby :) Thanks, appreciate it. Are you running a external pump for the rad? Im curious about the setup if you are. No external pump, just the stock water pump. No issues. Ordered 2 of these. Redoing the panhard mount because....the other side of the brace broke. So these will be part of the redo. I can get rid of the spacers I'm using for the rod ends with the current set up as well. 2 Quote Link to comment
Supra510 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 Flickr fail. Will update upcoming Quote Link to comment
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