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1986 Nissan 720 build (KA24DE+low)


NissanFam

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So I picked up this 720 a few months back and drove it for a couple weeks and then it stopped starting on me... shortly before it stopped, I learned it burned 1.5 qts of oil per week. So this was my motivation to begin the motor swap.

 

Anyways, I picked up the vehicle like this:

(I actually picked it up and the rear end sat higher, since then I've lowered it 2" to level out the truck)

 

*EDIT* It won't be staying "murdered out" for long. I'm not a fan of the all black-on-black-on-black look. My main goal with this truck is to make a clean, streetable daily driver that's as oem looking as possible... just lower. :thumbup:

 

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1185712_10201773128190749_1103715647_n.j

 

After not driving it for a while (my daily is an s14 240sx, pictured below), I decided to get the stuff for my KA swap (mounts, can/am box, new distributor, ecu and harness) and start making things happen. Anyways, here's an old photo of my dd vvvvvvvvvvvvvv

 

photo4.jpg

 

Back to 720's. Here's the p.o.s. z24 coming out!

IMG_20131026_192952.jpg

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ (I apologize for the crappy Instagram photo)

 

and here's my nasty-ass bay. Hopefully going to weld in some sort of tubs because I hate how open it is... the previous owner had it bagged, and I'm guessing this by the fact that it doesn't have wheel wells and the rear frame is notched very shittily.

20131027_180452.jpg

 

Before I get too carried away with making changes, it was obvious that I needed to give this frame and bay a very thorough cleaning before the motor goes in. Here's the difference a little elbow grease makes!

20131027_183405.jpg

 

Overall, I'm very happy with how well it's cleaning up. I got pretty lucky finding a 720 in such good shape body-wise and the fact that it doesn't have hardly any rust was a big plus; it just sucks the z24 didn't last me any longer than it did. If anyone needs any z24 parts, let me know. Otherwise they'll be going to the scrap yard in the near future.

 

More updates on the motor swap will be very soon to come... I'm hoping to have it done by if not this weekend then the one after that. I'm just waiting to get my oil pan and pickup tube welded.

 

Anyways, it's good to be on Ratsun! I'm glad it's more relaxed and friendly than Zilvia. -___________-

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Lot of talk about this swap and its finally going to happen. :D

Good progress so far! Go on!

Has nobody done a ka24de in a 720?

 

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Ive got all the shit laying around to make this happen, so it's 100% happening lol. The most difficult part will be mounts, but Ive got those covered.

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I bought TYC tailights new and the rubber was already starting to rip within a month or two. I do live in a desert (Las Vegas, NV) but still. But there still pretty good tails, I've had them for a year now and still looks new (besides the rubber).

 

But what's the progress so far?

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Slow progress, unfortunately. Its been storming all week and none of my packages have come in yet to get the ball rolling. Tonight Tomorrow I plan on dropping in the motor to test fit mounts and get measurements for clearances. I'll get photos up asap.

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It has been done before but it was a while back and right after he did the swap he sold the truck.

 

http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15746

 

Actually just now read this. I've seen the build before but never enough to see how he did his oil pan... that seems MUCH easier than the way I was going to, and may be the route I take with this. If so, I can weld that up myself. I'll have to see once I get the motor actually in the truck. 

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Alright so I'm out messing with the KA to get it to fit without modification, if possible. and I think I've found a way to do it. I'll still need custom mounts but as far as clearances are concerned I think I've got a solution. I come to you, Ratsun, to double check the validity of this. I've also got a few photos. :D

 

20131101_185542.jpg

 

BOOM. OPERATION "SEXY DOHC BIRDIE DICK" IS A GO... KIND OF.

 

 

20131101_185608.jpg

 

If you see, the sway bar definitely won't clear... the steering linkage might. (Not exactly sure what that center bar is called... xD) This photo shows the motor pushed back maybe 1/2"-1" so it'll come forward a slight amount.

 

NOW. my question. By measurement, it'll be a VERY close call on the other bar, but if I were to remove the sway bar and flip the linkage around (because if you notice, it bows forward) to where it bows toward the rear of the truck, it would clear the pan just fine to run the oem pan as-is. Is this flawed logic? I know it's reverse engineering in removing the sway bar, but I also know they're not needed and my main concern at the moment is getting the truck to run the cheapest way possible. It appears to me that I should be able to flip that linkage and solve the clearance issue...  :confused:

 

20131101_191657.jpg

 

I'm going to go out and get that sway bar removed and try to test this theory out myself... wish me luck, Ratsun!  :blush:
 

 

 

***NOTE*** I am FULLY aware that I have a nasty-ass engine bay. It'll get cleaned up before the motor is in its final resting place, rest assured. :D

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disregard^^ I didn't bother to notice the entire linkage and how it slopes both forward and down outside of the bolts. All I saw was the linkage to the bolts... 

 

Welp... probably just going to go through with making this a rear sump setup. 

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Small update: oil pan and pickup tube are off and will be heading to the welder sometime this week. Should have them back by next weekend at the earliest. 

 

Mocked up the 240 motor in the bay. OG 240 mounts are way off both in height and angle. I wanted to get the motor in with stock mounts just to get my bearing and get an idea of where I needed to be. I'm going to try ]2eDeYe's 620 mounts on it sometime this week whenever I've got time to dick around with it...

 

I feel like one of his mounts will be close but I already know the other one is completely off, so there'll be some measurements and angles taken to modify those a bit.  :thumbup:

 

My OBD1 S14 Harness, ECU and distributor came in the mail today... I believe all I'm waiting on now is the can/am box. After that stuff gets in, I'll just need to finish the mounts and pan to be able to get the motor dropped in. I'm also going to need an inline fuel pump, but that'll probably have to wait for the time being.

 

I've got some reading up to do. I can't seem to figure out which plugs supply power to the body harness, because it looks as if the previous owner botched that as well... I'll also have to figure out a way to wire up my cluster and alternator.

 

 

 

 

...anywhoozle. That's it for now. I've got a lot of work ahead of me, but it's getting there...  :blush:

 

***EDIT*** I apologize for the lack of photos. 

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This truck had a slow death, just to add closure and bump the oldest, most worthless thread. I ended up moving overseas and never completed the swap. Parted out the KA bits, sold off the can/am box, sold the truck as a shell for $600, not sure where it is now. After returning, I've since crossed the dark side and picked up a TE72 Corolla that is in the process of being reborn. It had bad compression in cylinder 2, misfired like crazy and wouldn't stop burping coolant. I bought another 3TC in the meantime to get the car back on the road. 

How is this Nissan/Datsun-related? I picked up an S13 shell for the front suspension components and am in the process of buying a CA18DE to swap into it. It should make for a nice ~50hp bump and be fuel-injected, which will help. If nothing else, I like making note of these things on forums to keep me accountable to get shit done. 

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The shell I picked up for cheappppp:
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And here are a few cars we had when we were overseas if anyone cares:
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32370964_10215978129146895_3025210599198

18034339_10212415160554907_3974393346225

13325534_10209393929986031_4190965332896

11707905_10207023606969437_2196865561691

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