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New to the site, love my 620


ricandatsun

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Could my weber carb be one of the knock-off? I'm looking at my carb and is identified with a Weber sticker. Doing some research online and found this
 

 

comparison.jpg

 

 


Maybe that's why it won't take adjustment and is acting up!

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I cant believe u painted over that awesome original paint job. :crying: With that said the truck does look cool B)

Thanks DatDoug! But is just Plasti Dip till I can afford and original Datsun paint job ;-)

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I thought the original paint looked great, cracks and all. It's the style right now.

 

Did you brush or spray your Plastidip? I'm thinking of going with a Koi Orange brush job on mine. 

i liked the original paint more as well. 

 

and yeah i was lookin at your weber kinda weird cuz it sure doesnt look like (either of) mine

nor any weber 32/36 ive ever seen

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I thought the original paint looked great, cracks and all. It's the style right now.

 

Did you brush or spray your Plastidip? I'm thinking of going with a Koi Orange brush job on mine.

6 spray cans.

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i liked the original paint more as well.

 

and yeah i was lookin at your weber kinda weird cuz it sure doesnt look like (either of) mine

nor any weber 32/36 ive ever seen

The truck would be that Datsun blue again, thats the goal. Is more like a black bronze now, till I can afford a real paint job (the plasti dip will protect what is left of truck) this truck didn't have any bad rust, just surface rust and I took care of that.

I just ordered a rebuild Hitachi from national and a order "weber" from redline. I'm making sure is a real one

Screenshot_2013-07-25-08-01-28-1_zps6121

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You don't need to change the coil! You have a premium EI (electronic ignition) with breakerless distributor and high output. Save your money and spend on something that will actually do something like a cap or rotor. If you want a shiny red coil just paint it and it will increase the output the same amount.

 

Some things to consider on a new unknown vehicle.

 

Transmission oil. Should be changed every 30K so your truck should have been changed probably 5 or 6 times by now. Trouble is owners only keep them for a few years and new owners either, don't know or simply don't care. Drain bung is on bottom and has a magnet on it to collect debris so inspect it and clean off for next time. Fill hole is half way up side. 2 qt.s of 80w90 GL4, NOT GL5, or equivalent but must say 'yellow metal compatible' on can. Don't listen to that kid behind the counter... has to be GL4.

 

Differential oil..Same as above but do use GL5.

 

Replace the rad coolant/anti freeze. This stuff wears out in 3-5 years. Prevents corrosion of head and block  and possible head gasket failures from dissimilar metals. Reduces/eliminates water pump leaks and rad plugging.

 

Replace any 'soft' rad or heater hoses while rad drained.

 

Set valve lash. It will quiet a noisy motor and prevent a burnt valve. Set lash on a hot motor.

 

Replace fuel filter. Spend $5 and get a good one. Cheap ones I've found out tent to have the element come lose inside and rattle around doing nothing. Change yearly. $5 and 5 min can save you a roadside stop and hours cleaning out a dirty carb.

 

Air filter. Save some gas.

 

Engine oil. Chevron Dello 400 15w40 last reported to contain reasonable levels of ZDDP to protect flat tappet or cam followers. It's what I use and wouldn't go below 15w and never 5w even in winter. Oil choice is up to you but changing it AND the filter regularly is probably more important that what brand. DO NOT EVER USE OIL ADDITIVES... EVER.

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Painted running lights?????

 

:confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:  :confused:

Okay! Not my ride, but still pretty sure that may be "fix-it ticket" worthy, FYI.

 

 

 

As far as your "carb" issue, webers are pretty solid, have you checked the timing? These motors are under constant timing-chain tension, and a lot of the time indications of a "shitty, mis-adjusted carb" are actually symptoms of of a stretched timing chain. 

I know somewhere on here there's a tech article on how to adjust for timing chain stretch, just don't know where.

 

Good luck!

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Painted running lights?????

 

lol... is plasti dip, It can be remove anytime

 

 

 

As far as your "carb" issue, webers are pretty solid, have you checked the timing? These motors are under constant timing-chain tension, and a lot of the time indications of a "shitty, mis-adjusted carb" are actually symptoms of of a stretched timing chain.

I know somewhere on here there's a tech article on how to adjust for timing chain stretch, just don't know where.

 

Good luck!

 

Thanks, I'll check the timing

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You don't need to change the coil! You have a premium EI (electronic ignition) with breakerless distributor and high output. Save your money and spend on something that will actually do something like a cap or rotor. If you want a shiny red coil just paint it and it will increase the output the same amount.

 

Some things to consider on a new unknown vehicle.

 

Transmission oil. Should be changed every 30K so your truck should have been changed probably 5 or 6 times by now. Trouble is owners only keep them for a few years and new owners either, don't know or simply don't care. Drain bung is on bottom and has a magnet on it to collect debris so inspect it and clean off for next time. Fill hole is half way up side. 2 qt.s of 80w90 GL4, NOT GL5, or equivalent but must say 'yellow metal compatible' on can. Don't listen to that kid behind the counter... has to be GL4.

 

Differential oil..Same as above but do use GL5.

 

Replace the rad coolant/anti freeze. This stuff wears out in 3-5 years. Prevents corrosion of head and block and possible head gasket failures from dissimilar metals. Reduces/eliminates water pump leaks and rad plugging.

 

Replace any 'soft' rad or heater hoses while rad drained.

 

Set valve lash. It will quiet a noisy motor and prevent a burnt valve. Set lash on a hot motor.

 

Replace fuel filter. Spend $5 and get a good one. Cheap ones I've found out tent to have the element come lose inside and rattle around doing nothing. Change yearly. $5 and 5 min can save you a roadside stop and hours cleaning out a dirty carb.

 

Air filter. Save some gas.

 

Engine oil. Chevron Dello 400 15w40 last reported to contain reasonable levels of ZDDP to protect flat tappet or cam followers. It's what I use and wouldn't go below 15w and never 5w even in winter. Oil choice is up to you but changing it AND the filter regularly is probably more important that what brand. DO NOT EVER USE OIL ADDITIVES... EVER.

Thanks Mike, I'll return the coil and I'll get a good fuel filter. Can't wait to have her running again.

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Oil smell like fuel... now I know where all my fuel went last weekend :'(

might want to change your oil and filter, (don't use Fram ) the gas will wash your bearings of lube and cause a rod knocking. 

 

 

Any one with a carb breather not in used for sale or any idea on an aftermarket breather? Thanks

be best if you did a classified ad, someones got one because their a few hoarders on the form.

 

but first contact Eagle_Adam, he just might have what you want and if he does, he's promt at getting it out fast. GL

http://community.ratsun.net/user/4676-eagle-adam/

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Truck is on the road FINALLY!!! (thanks Mike, 460n620, 650savag and everyone else who gave me carb tips) Installed the carb from National and is running great (only problem is not idle ling high at all, not even at cold start), changed oil, spark plugs and wires. Lowered a little more and I'm happy.

1375659719874_zpsbae3afb8.jpg1375659543023_zpsd370b1f8.jpg

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