Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 When did the motor last run? Has the timing chain been off lately? Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Supposedly a year ago. I bought it off of a guy from craigslist. The head looked good and it the motor turnt. And I haven't messed with the timing chain Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 You need fuel and spark. Fuel look at the front of the carb, there is a glass sight glass, fuel should be visible or look down the carb with the choke held open and pump the gas, you should see a strong squirt of fuel. Spark Take a plug wire off and put any spark plug in the end, lay on a grounded surface and crank the motor... any spark??? Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 jalen, I just left your brothers, you have no spark.....your missing your oil pump drive shaft.... that bubbly sound is the open header, Fix the spark issue, MAKE SURE YOU ALIGN IT ALL PROPERLY and it looks like it should fire right up. 1 Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Yeah, was just over there. Got some work to do tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 .....your missing your oil pump drive shaft.... You think somebody would ck this all out after install a motor!!!!!!!!!! L motor shound take more than a few hrs to get running 1 Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Does the oil pump need to be prime when I install it with the shaft? I heard they do and I also heard they don't because they are self priming units. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 You should prime it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 I also heard they don't because they are self priming units.???? What! prime it and install it when everything is at TDC. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 If the motor has been sitting for a year then I would definitely prime it. You might want to take the valve cover off and pour oil over the valve train too. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 I also heard they don't because they are self priming units.???? What! prime it and install it when everything is at TDC. What I was talking about As I understand, the L-series uses a self-priming pump, so this step is not strictly required. But it will pre-lube the engine for a smoother startup. Nice work! Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 And to prime it don't you need a extra oil pump shaft with the gear off? And then install it turning it clockwise? With a spark plg out into oil comes from the crank? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I piece of 1/4" round stock with the end flattened will work, attached to a drill of course. And spin it counter clockwise. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Alright so the oil pump is all hooked up. I'm getting spark. But on my dual points distributor only one of the points are arcing. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 This is because only one can be the last one to open. The last one arcs. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Yeah something in the ditributor isn't working properly, just ordered new points and condenser. The points were arching and I looked closer, and one had the rubber part off. And now my carb base gasket is leaking on my exhaust manifold. I love working on cars, it keeps my wallet empty Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 I use the main set of points with is the one with the bigger capicitor next to the block. the 2nd set I unplug the wire from the dizzy. then ck for spark at the center plug wire. Most time its a small arch when you try to start at the point contacks. alot of time the points wire gts grounded where the spring is. then no spark. beware of bushing wear also which makes the dist shaft wobble side to side thus prematurely opeing up the points point sset to about .020 is good enough hopefully you got w stock coil and tha ballast resisitor in there wires correctly Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Points are gapped at .018. I'm getting a weak spark at the plug now. Have new plugs, newish wires, newish cap and rotor. Points I don't know when they were installed. So like I said I ordered new points hopefully that will take care of the problem. Hopefully Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 You ordered new points? Can't roll down to your local parts store and pick a set up? Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 I had to special order them from autozone. Yet finally came and it's only one. Before I pai I aske the lady if it was both I then and she said it was. So now I have to go return this one and get the actual pair. Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 She runs! Timing was 180 out! Started it with just open header. Heard it run. Shut of off. Then I looked on my driver side of the engine bay and saw coolant everywhere. I automatically assumed the worse, bad head gasket. So went and order a new Hg and exhaust flange gasket. Then I was taking a closer look and realized there was coolant dripping from my thermostat. Went to go see of the bolts wereloose and it was! Put some gasket sealer down and tighten the bolts. That took care of the leak. Went and pulled my oil cap cover, no milkshake color. Now I'm excited! And then pulled a spark spark plug and no milk shake color there. Looks normal. Pretty happy right now, didn't feel like unbolting everything to install a head gasket! Now just need to install my flange gasket. So I can driver her tomorrow 1 Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 That I fixed the leak, cranked the motor today. Found out that my exhaust manifold bolts aren't tight enough, so that's where the coolant is coming from. Hopefully the gasket isn't destroyed, but we shall see. On the bright side my exhaust is all hooked up. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Gasket should be fine. Always run through the bolts for each part a second time to check torque, even if your not using a torque wrench. I've been working on cars for years and still miss one from time to time. Still learning to chase my threads every time :lol: Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Just keep taking it one problem at a time, That's the best way to learn. Itll be driving again in no time! Quote Link to comment
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