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Weber 32/36 elec.choke


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Okay so I want to purchase a Weber DGEV-E and a company on Ebay (redline) states don't be fooled by false webers from North America and Japan. Plus there is a $50.00 difference in price. Redline states that the European model that they sell the original and all others imitations. Anyone have info on this and if I'm just doing a mild build what to get.

 

Thanks Lance

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Well, Redline sells genuine Webers.  They aren't original though, as the original Webers were made in Italy.  Current ones are made in Spain, as have pretty much all Webers since the 1980s. 

 

There are no such thing as fake Webers from Japan.  If they were made in Japan they'd be fine, but what is floating out on the internet are clones made by a Chinese knockoff factory and branded as EMPI.  Those are the ones to avoid.  The "American" webers are just Holley 5200s, which was a licensed clone with different connectors (and are a clone DFV, not DGV).  Those haven't been made new in decades.

 

$50 Difference?  Someone is really jacking up the price on EMPIs then... last year the difference was closer to $100.

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Empi's are hard to tune, don't stay tuned long, work like shit, bind easily, and require you buying a lokar cable just to be able to use it. Its shit, don't buy one. Make sure its a genuine weber....  All you have to do is pay attention to the ad, and the wording in the ad.

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Redline and weber carbs direct sell the real webers currently (may be others, but I don't know of any)

 

Weber carbs direct is cheaper, but they don't pre-jet even for specific kits, so you have to rejet and pay for tuning (found this out the hard way)

 

Redline is pretty good with their jetting so long as you buy the kit for your vehicle. If you buy a weber and an adapter seperate, you get the generic jets so you have to pay for rejetting and tuning.

 

My opinion, buy from redline at their website, not ebay. This way you know you are dealing with the company and not someone selling ripe offs.

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Okay lets say I buy the weber from redline direct and avoid ebay all the way, since I'm stripping off all the smog and so on. Does this mean that I no longer need an electic choke? I'm also getting a shorty header that Al has for sale from Datsun Parts LLC which will cost me close to $400.00. I'm pulling the motor and transmission this weekend and everything is already disconnected except motor mounts. Purchasing a new cluth package from Napa and they sell 2 different ones. One at $139.00 and the other at $239.00. I don't know what the diffence is but just want a clutch I'm not going to have to re-do again in a couple years. This place here called Edwards engines wants $1200.00 to rebuild motor. Another problem I have is that I have the W58 smog head is there away to fix this w/o having to get a new head?

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Electric or manual choke is up to you. I like the electric choke because I haven't had any issues with it, but some people prefer the manual. The choke helps during cold starts, so either way you will need a choke and  way to control it (electric, water, or manual cable)

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electric choke, to me, is just much more convenient. all you do is splice a 12volt wire.

the other chokes are water and manual, i think which i think require drilling holes in the firewall, 

tapping in new lines, etc. 

 

my 73 doesnt have any smog equipment and im running electric. 

 

header: a lot of guys dont like the header, they say the stock exhaust manifold is built good enough and

that the available aftermarket header usually rusts out and does not last long, and sometimes doesnt fit well on the head,

leading to exhaust leaks. 

 

the difference in the clutch is probably due to the difference in flywheels, one is larger than the other. and i think one has 5 holes

while the other has 6?

 

i dont have any experience with the w58 head but you can get a used head for really cheap and have it rebuilt for also really cheap.

 

1200 is steep to me for a rebuild. especially if they dont even know what they have to do.

 

initialy they should definitely hot tank the block, and then measure the bores. that will determine if they need to be bored out or not.

if they need to be bored out then you will need oversize pistons and rings. 

 

they also need to check to see if the rods are good, and to check the crankshaft and all the journals. 

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Redline and weber carbs direct sell the real webers currently (may be others, but I don't know of any)

 

Weber carbs direct is cheaper, but they don't pre-jet even for specific kits, so you have to rejet and pay for tuning (found this out the hard way)

 

Redline is pretty good with their jetting so long as you buy the kit for your vehicle. If you buy a weber and an adapter seperate, you get the generic jets so you have to pay for rejetting and tuning.

 

My opinion, buy from redline at their website, not ebay. This way you know you are dealing with the company and not someone selling ripe offs.

 

 

Maybe you have to pay for jets and tuning...

 

But here we have friends with a box full of jets, swap em out for what you need. Tune a 32/36 by ear...  There is a how to on their website I have bookmarked.  Its pretty simple really.

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Haha, well I didn't pay for jets or tuning, and now I have a very rich l18 that has started burning oil :huh:

 

Oh well. Did the idle circuit and now I'll drive it till it breaks or till my LZ is finished.

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How soon do you need a clutch ,, Rockauto.com is probably cheaper delivered to your door than either price you quoted,, The price difference may reflect whether it`s a big name American/ or Japanese brand or China built one,, the 6 hole 5 hole thing is the flywheel not the clutch,, your clutch should be 225mm or about 8.7/8 inches measured across surface.

 

Electric choke as stated before is really personal preference just make sure you add in the cable when pricing ,, We have both and the manual works more positively but electric is a set it and forget it type deal... I can`t say i dislike either.

(edit) yes you will still need some kind of choke

 

 

W58 smog head never hurt no body,, i have W58 peanut on my little 1600 ( yours will probably be open ) and it has smaller ports than other peanut heads but driveabilty wise it still goes right down the road.

 

 

Screw NAPA i love Rockauto

 

http://www.rockauto.com/

 

 

 

a little flywheel info ,, hopefully not to confuse you more

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=13727

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do NOT pay for a header unless you are trying to cut weigth for some reason. Get a non smog manifold, Z-trip had one with a Y-pipe for sale, or tear the smog shit off'n yer'n.

There I just saved you $400 bux you can spend on other stuff.

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Ah, way cool guys, I do appreciate all the info. This will make everything so much easier. I'm going to get on redlines website today and order the carb. Check out Rock Auto, maybe talk to Z-trip or maybe one of you who knbow him would have him get ahold of me. I couldn't find him on the members list. I guess I can run 2" exhaust from the stock manifold? Have to look. Anyway, Get it Sandblasted and finished. Thank You Guys! I would appreciate all the info you guys have on this kind of stuff.

 

Lance

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400 for a header? I would get photos of this set up . Hate to find out its the standard Trimill header you can get for 140$.

 

List the spec of your motor and vehicle.

Importrp sells(sound like a middle man) sell Daiken Stag one clutches in the upper 200$ range or stock ones for about 90-120 dollars.

 

you see you have a W58 head which is a round ort. and most heades I seen are squarport. So tell us what you have and we will guide you thru the best option. But just reading your thread sounds like you throw money at it and it will get better.

 

remember these are 40 yr old technology and you need to spend alot to get the HP out of these motors

 

Im sure Al will say you need alot of things.

 

 

the 79 was a smog prone set up and can be cleaned up. But you need to tell us what you have and what you want.

 

As for Napa they sell alot of Chinese made shit now.

I would get a Daiken/Exedy clutch and even that might even be Korea parts in the kit.

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Ah, way cool guys, I do appreciate all the info. This will make everything so much easier. I'm going to get on redlines website today and order the carb. Check out Rock Auto, maybe talk to Z-trip or maybe one of you who knbow him would have him get ahold of me. I couldn't find him on the members list. I guess I can run 2" exhaust from the stock manifold? Have to look. Anyway, Get it Sandblasted and finished. Thank You Guys! I would appreciate all the info you guys have on this kind of stuff.Lance

Z-train. He has a benny hill avatar
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If you ever have anyone else drive your rig (wife, girlfriend, brother or buddy who doesn't know much about cars, etc.), get an electric choke. Try to explain to them they need to push a knob in after driving a few blocks and their heads will explode! Of course if you don't want anyone driving it, a manual choke would be great - "Yeah you can drive my truck, but you have to learn how to run the manual choke and it's really complicated".

 

Len

 

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im running 2" from the Y back. i had them widen the Y (cut out the a 1 5/8" section or whatever)

great improvement, even on my 1.6. would be even better suited for a 2 liter

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