nerdistmonk Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 speaking of which the first time i removed my dist, i accidentally set it backwards, went to go on a test drive and had the top speed of a riding lawn mower...hmmm somethings a bit off in the powerband i see..... :w00t: Not nearly as awesome as the time i forgot to hook cylinders 1 and 2 back up....as im bouncing up and down in my seat i think to myself......hmmmm shes got a bit of a vibration....must be cold. :thumbup: cant wait till i go to do an engine rebuild and forget to put the crankshaft back in. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 I was leaning towards removing the factory vinyl rug (which has a sizable hole in it) and after getting holes in the floor pan repaired just going with the bare painted metal look. I really need a welder, and some metal, and then some welding skills to go with those two things. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 So i went to go get some junk food whilst the action was going on, i noticed on my way back my speedometer went bonkers its waving all across the place, out of no-where, ill be doing 25ish its bouncing up to 45, ill be doing 45 and its swinging all up into 70 and such. What gives?! :w00t: I guess tomorrow is gonna suck for ol' nerdy Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 The cable sheath is kinked or the inner moving cable is dry. It's really a tight coiled spring that can catch and stop but the trans keeps turning it tighter until it pops loose releasing the stored energy making the speedo jump up higher. Carefully unscrew the tranny end and fish the inner cable out. It's very slippery so have a cloth to keep it off the ground and clean. Use a graphite or molybdenum disulphide grease to lube it. Install it and be sure the ferule on the end engages the tranny pinion, screw the collar back on. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 The cable sheath is kinked or the inner moving cable is dry. It's really a tight coiled spring that can catch and stop but the trans keeps turning it tighter until it pops loose releasing the stored energy making the speedo jump up higher. Carefully unscrew the tranny end and fish the inner cable out. It's very slippery so have a cloth to keep it off the ground and clean. Use a graphite or molybdenum disulphide grease to lube it. Install it and be sure the ferule on the end engages the tranny pinion, screw the collar back on. thanks mike, ill try that tomorrow when its daylight, looks like i get to spend some quality time under my nissan again. Happy yet bummed at the same time, ill have to have a close look around under the dash and hood make sure something didnt catch the cable and mess it up So random... Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 im guessing that moly-whatchamacallit grease is like wheel bearing grease? cause i got big can of synthetic wheel bearing lube if that will work Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 NO. NOT WHEEL BEARING GREASE> Moly lube is some crazy slippery stuff. Don't skimp. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 im not trying to skimp im trying to identify this stuff so i can get some, it says its used for universal joints and cv joints? is it that crap i got in the giant squeeze gun i fire into my ball joints? (i know that sounds a bit off but meh) Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 No it is not. Moly or graphite are specialty lubes. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 aye then, i guess i will go to town tomorrow and find this mysterious graphite or moly grease that is spoke of. I got my choices of: *Carquest *Autozone *Advanced Auto Parts *O-Reilly *Napa i think? i may try car quest first since they are as 1980's as it gets around here, i usually go there for all the random metric sized stuff i need for my truck. Quote Link to comment
Camtron Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Use a graphite or molybdenum disulphide grease to lube it I never noticed until just now that there's no "e" between the "b" and "d" in "molybdenum". I always read it as "molly bednum," but that must be way off. I'm glad I've never had to say it out loud before. I sure woulda looked silly. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 I never noticed until just now that there's no "e" between the "b" and "d" in "molybdenum". I always read it as "molly bednum," but that must be way off. I'm glad I've never had to say it out loud before. I sure woulda looked silly. I always just say "Hand me the black grease." That moly lube is the fucking shit! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 The Moly lube is usually by the gear oil at O'Reilly's. Quote Link to comment
mrmark Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 I never noticed until just now that there's no "e" between the "b" and "d" in "molybdenum". I always read it as "molly bednum," but that must be way off. I'm glad I've never had to say it out loud before. I sure woulda looked silly. i think it's mol-lib-de-num 1 Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 i think it's mol-lib-de-num Life bites sometimes, so apparently at the precise moment my speedo went nuts, the ford truck we got decided it didnt want to be outclassed so it locked its alternator up, so the child throwing the temper tantrum got all my attention today. I also sliced the edge of my thumb off on the fan blades. awesome. Unlike the nissan which i love and pamper, the ford gets hand-me-downs, i went got a $30 alternator from a junkyard. Problem solved. Also broke a craftsman ratchet on it too, craftsman is gar-baaaage. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Take the Craftsman ratchet to any Sears store. They will replace it on the spot. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Take the Craftsman ratchet to any Sears store. They will replace it on the spot. already did because i needed it to finish up, i hate fords, most unfriendly vehicle ive ever seen. my nissan is at least kind to me and trys not to cause me bodily harm. (plastic fan blades ftw.) Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 If the pull and relube the cable doesn't work, you either have a broken speedometer cable outer cover [easily fixable, buy a new cable assembly or clamp an angle bracket to bridge the broken segment, double clamp with worm gear fasteners and resign yourself to frequent relubes] or much worse the solder joint between the copper cup at the input of the speedometer has cracked and the cup is flopping around. The drag magnet follows the erratic signals and gives weird gauge readings since at best the copper cup is at an angle, not square to the magnet. It can be resoldered but getting it at the right angle and depth of engagement is at best an art, definitlely not a science. Hope to hell it's just a lube job. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 it seemed to go back to normal on its own earlier so im guessing it must be lube, ill get around to it eventually (maybe same day i redo my brakes), if my speedo breaks ill have to get creative i guess. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 Ok so after the plastidip disaster, i believe ill go with a nice dash cover I am going to revert the interior to mostly bare metal, i like simplicity and 9 times out of 10 i always gut the interior as its hard to maintain with age, it traps moisture and dirt, and the plastic is brittle and discolored again due to age so i am going to strip it all with the exception of the door panels and dash (i think im even taking the head liner out also) if i cannot get my floor welded then im going to with plan B, 1 quart of fiberglass fill and pour a new floor on the drivers side then paint it back to the color of the truck. after i manage to actually accomplish something then ill start wondering about removing the pinstripes (ugh) Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 someone here turned me onto a website called stockinteriors.com and they probably have a molded carpet for your truck in all kinds of options and colors whenever your ready to reinstall the carpet. If i hadnt already invested in carpet I would probably have bought one for my car. its not as cheap as using carpet from walmart or an upholstery shop but it will last a lot longer and it will fit perfect, no messing around with cutting and fitting or anything Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 Ive tried every gasket material known to man, they all leak and fail, also when i said cardboard i meant the 1/8" thick gasket cardboard. . The EFI intake is much different from the carb intakes. Different hole shape for one and bolt pattern. I'm not surprised you have sealing problems. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 . The EFI intake is much different from the carb intakes. Different hole shape for one and bolt pattern. I'm not surprised you have sealing problems. its actually holding up great with the cardboard gasket, i made an oversized gasket (the size of the intake plateau) and used gaskasynch its holding up so far so good the cork disintegrated when gas touched it and the rubber gasket just sucked. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 the interior removal has begun, i had one of my gut feelings again (usually bad) so i was possessed to go and remove the interior right away since something felt wrong Edit: maybe tomorrow i will start on the top half, the headliner might go too. still some panels left to get rid of by the door, I wont be putting any interior back, i like the bare look, its a truck thats it job, aint no need for daintys in a man's truck. That and i never appropriate funds towards stuff that doesnt fix functionality, this is a form issue not a functionality issue as such i just remove the offending parts. Bug shield went buh bye also since it looked like an ugly hat. The only funds im willing to spend on cosmetics at this point is a datsun 720 grille badge to install on the grille. I may even keep the 86.5 grille i was thinking of getting a 94 grille for its stylish new looks but meh. I am planning on sanding this sucker a bit then blasting it U.S Army beige green with clear coat. As for the holes, ill need to get access to a welder and some metal so try and put some patches over each hole. Also one of these days i need to just take the whole truck apart to the frame and fix it up right, but thats a long way down the road. Quote Link to comment
nerdistmonk Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Ok so after removing the interior, i thought about fiberglassing the metal supports to cover all those various holes in them...but then it hit me... Its brilliant, im keeping the holes I can hang things now, if i have a coat or anything i need to take with me i can hang it with all those holes, or even better i could put me a small mesh net across my ceiling and have a small cargo spot to stuff various whatnot. on another note so many wires on the passenger side, Ill have to think of a way to hide them back a bit. If i get this ignition conversion done in the next 2 weeks i will work on removing all that crap. (partial wiring harness removal), that will take some time to do since theres got to be at least 40 wires there but almost all of them go no where now. Also if your reading this thread give a shoutout, feeling alone here. Quote Link to comment
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