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My Datsun Hardbody....


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I may be able to shed some light on this.  From what I've seen, Z24i timing covers do not use a pedestal.  The distributor just bolts on, as I've found on my 87 chump truck.  A carbed Z24s should still use a pedestal.  I don't know if you'll be able to use the i timing cover.  I think you'll need to swap it out for an S timing cover.  The KAZ24 in my red hardbody is an S block/timing cover.

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(the intake coil/icm doesnt work and hasnt for many years, the truck was rigged to run on the exhaust coil before i bought it, when i tried to restore the intake side back to proper working order it caught on fire..no pics of that one nor my reaction to it sorry, so at this point forward that ecu is my sworn enemy and i must defeat it)

 

I wished i knew why that ignition module burned (or the old one for that matter).

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Well some more news, me and datzenmike compared pictures and apparently all im missing is a small plate that bolts to the timing cover, as soon as i can coerce him into sending it to me i can get this baby buttoned up. Well other than the classic "i need more power scotty!" as i dont know where the best spot to get the power sources i need.

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I had to go back and look at my pics.  Wish I didn't have so many.  My old build thread is nude of pictures since dropping my website.  Here's what I did on the KAZ24.  Don't know if it will help or not.  Think I had the pedestal lathed down into that bushing you see.

 

kaz24distributor1_zps6807e65f.jpg

 

kadistretrofit4_zps2ed9226d.jpg

 

kadistretrofit3_zps5f651f9e.jpg

 

kadistretrofit2_zpse66de87a.jpg

 

kadistretrofit5_zps26a3d4ef.jpg

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Thanks for the pics, me and mike figured it out, it seems the junkyard i ordered the part from unbolted the dist from the plate instead of from the engine thusly sending me a dist missing one of the adjustment plates.

 

Problem solved basically, just got get mike to send me the plate though. I also think i figured my wiring nightmare out, it seems all the 12v+ wiring from the coils is clean and DOES NOT need the computer to get power, instead the computer mearly switches the ground wires to all this stuff on and off as needed, or at least that what the schematics seem to show.

 

So ill just reuse all the wiring minus the ground wires (ill run new ones to the body) and bam im in like a dirty shirt.

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Ok just got done changing out a bad stabilizer bar link, both were bad (broken in half), i had did one back in february it had took 2 people to do it (someone holding up the stabilizer bar with a crowbar, and a guy to actually insert the link)

 

This time on this one i was on my own, i took the crowbar and after some trial/error and denting my shock absorber, i managed to find the sweet spot so i could use my knee to lift the stabilizer bar and use my hands to install the link
 

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I assume you are using the jack handle to lower it?

 

um idk how to lower it apparently, it has a round dingleberry in the middle and it well doesnt do anything, so i hit with a mallet and it still did nothing, i just figured the tire was fused to the truck bed. lol

 

next year i need to strip the truck down to the frame and por15 that sucker.

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Ok so heres my maintenance log, from january 18th till now, everything no matter how minor is listed here.

 

 

###1986 Nissan Hardbody D21, Long Bed, 4-CYL Z24 Engine, 5-speed/RWD###
79 Jeep CJ FUEL FILTER, 1981 Datsun z22 Distributor

@224,430 Miles
Plugs, Wires, Oil change/filter, air filter, fuel filter, injector cleaner, 2 lugnuts, new muffler

@224,430 Miles
Carburetor Conversion, Fuel Pump, Fuel Lines, Vacuum Lines, Wiring, Cleaned engine compartment, lube, fuel reg, *** Deletion,

@224,600 Miles
Ignition Rebuild, new wiring, transmission oil/rear oil changed, new stereo, tires, hubcap,

@224,754 Miles
New Dist Cap, New Dist Rotor, New Coil

@225,000
New exterior graphics

@225,318
Carb Tuned, clutch bled

@225,454
Oil pan gasket, Valve cover gasket, front end lube, antirust rear end, coolant system flush, exhaust system rebuilt, oil change,

@225,500
clutch hydros rebuild, clutch damper removal, antirust rear fenderwells

@225,516
New shocks (front/back), Stabilizer bar link drivers side

@225,707
Brakes Bled (frt), New front brake hoses, Front wheel bearings repacked (inner/outer), exhaust welded

@225,954
Partial Body Restoration

@226,672
Bucket Seat Conversion, New Fuel Pump, Rigged Fix for throttle,

@226,850
New Carb Gaskets, New Oil Pump Gasket, New Distributor Gasket, New Vac Caps, Manual Choke Installed, removed scrap

 

@226,954
New stabilizer bar link pass side, lube
 

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There is a long extension that probably isn't with the truck.  It's a bar and has a "T" through the end.  That fits in the round dingus and it lowers or raises the tire.  It's a chain pulley is what it is.  Get a half inch thick piece of round metal and weld a pin through it laterally.

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ill check behind the seat(s) and look at the manual for the truck, everything the truck had when it was sold is still with it (including all the receipts and paperwork).

 

I had a factory jack back there i believe so a bar for the tire may be there too, never know.

 

truck cost $7,300 in january 1986, he spent extra on the pinstripes (yucko), underbody rust protection and a very long warranty, and i also got the heavy duty package (glad i noticed that before i bought brake shoes)

 

apparently it got a new motor in 1987 (kind of hard to tell with all this faded paperwork), dont ask me what kind of magic could happen to cause a truck to need a new z24 barely a year after it was bought.

 

i also got all this japanese paperwork and some strange computer punch cards and such, and a mirror tag with a number on it. Figure ill keep it all for laughs, go into the stealership and ask if my warranty is still valid :)

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That's a heap of maintenance. Better be running like a sewing machine!

 

 

for the most part it does, im sure it will be even better once i get its 8 plug ignition back to proper working order.

 

Got some questions for whoever can answer them though:

 

1) Anyone got a picture of their z22 motor showing what position their dist is set to, i time my engine by ear and i would like to have a starting point so i dont have the engine over-advanced.

 

2)A picture of the wiring coming from the z22 dist to the coils would be awesome also.

 

 

Another ironic thing, of all the gasket material ive used for my carb and other things......cardboard....cardboard ftw.....

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You need to get a timing light to set the distributor.  You can hook up a dwell/tach/rpm meter for the rpm if you don't have a gauge.  It will be ten times easier than trying to set by ear or feel.

 

Wait a minute, you just said you used cardboard for the carb gasket material?  That will cause a problem.  Might not right away, but it will cause a problem.  I would highly suggest you go down and get some sheet gasket material from the auto parts store of your choice and redo those gaskets.  Gasket paper is much more dense than cardboard and will resist gasoline contamination.  Cardboard will not and fairly soon you will have a vacuum leak.

 

Also, in case you have, don't use any sealant on carb gaskets.  Install dry.

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Ive tried every gasket material known to man, they all leak and fail, also when i said cardboard i meant the 1/8" thick gasket cardboard.

 

i got a brand new timing light but dont use it, if i dont get an image of someone elses z22 engine or something so i can have a starting point ill just wing it, ill dial it to an approximation of where the old one was set then go from there.

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