Crankshaft Bolt removal...

[bmacster]

I hate to keep asking what seems to be "simple" answers but I want to make sure this part is done right. The chain has fallen down into the timing cover, so I am treading as lightly as possible. 

 

I need to get the crankshaft bolt removed however, the methods I've used have not worked. 

I've tried the chain wrench with a breaker bar and cheater pipe. Both methods don't work and I ended up bending the lower lip of the pulley (yay...)

 

I've thought about doing the starting method, but I don't want to damage anything internally with the chain down below. 

 

Any solutions to this mess I got myself into?

 

I don't have access to a air compressor, so no high torque impact wrenches are readily available. I thought about purchasing one though for the project but only if I absolutely have to.

[DAT510]

Stuff rope into the cylinders.

I used heavy gauge wire and that worked perfectly. 

[datzenmike]

Put in 4th and put the brake on. 1/2" ratchet hanging down the front. Lay under the front and kick HARD on the handle towards the drivers side. I've done this in a wrecking yard with the motor on the ground and works every time.

[MicroMachinery]

Put it in the highest gear and use a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, then stop being a puss :rofl:

[Ratwagon1600]

Put in 4th and put the brake on. 1/2" ratchet hanging down the front. Lay under the front and kick HARD on the handle towards the drivers side. I've done this in a wrecking yard with the motor on the ground and works every time.

What Mike has said, and, a method I've used very similar to this is as above but with a long handle (we call it a breaker bar) instead of the ratchet.

 

If needs be, jack the front of the car up (safety stands underneath of course) to allow for sufficient room for the extended handle.

 

If you don't feel like kicking the handle, I find a rubber mallet works well too.

[datzenmike]

If you set it up right and take a few slow practice swings to make sure you don't hit your knee, the inertia of the crank and the compression is enought to hold it. 

[Dawa]

whatever method you use, the key is to act like a human impact gun

applying breaking torque in a quick, jolting manner, rather than slow and smooth.

another method is using a mallet, 2x4 or similar on the back end of your ratchet, wrench,

breaker/cheater bar, etc

 

but i cant see anything beating a swift kick like mike was talkin about, if you can get in/under there

 

of course in these instances leverage is also your friend so the more you can get the better.

[izzo]

Put it in the highest gear and use a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, then stop being a puss :rofl:

 

 

Lolled!!!

[bmacster]

Put it in the highest gear and use a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, then stop being a puss :rofl:

LOL!

[bmacster]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try that method in the morning. The bolt is reversed from the standard bolts, correct? If it is standard, then that would explain why I'm not getting it off, lol!

[datzenmike]

Lefty lucy.... righty tighty.

 

CCW, loose...... CW, tight

[DanielC]

"Put it in the highest gear and use a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, then stop being a puss :rofl:"

 

I would suggest using fourth, or whatever gear is a 1 to 1 ratio..  less stress on the transmission.

[bmacster]

Lefty lucy.... righty tighty.

 

CCW, loose...... CW, tight

Ah... I was told that bolt was reverse threaded... Cooool....

[datson4life]

wd40 it, come back later wd40 it again, then torch the sucka

thats what i did to get the transmission plug to fill oil out, worse plug/bolt of my life

at one point a buddy was underneath with me fighting it and my 521 almost came off the stands and crushed us to death and burned us alive leaving no evidence

i exxagerated a bit but i still hate that plug, it took a couple days

[bmacster]

VICTORY IS MINE! 

I feel kind of stupid. Tried 6 different ways. Which one worked? 

 

Taking the grill off and going at it from that angle with a 26" breaker bar. 2 good pushes down, came loose O.O

 

Now to finish the job up and return the impact wrench I bought since it wouldn't even fit. Now to go to the junk yard tomorrow and get a new pulley and a KA24 oil pump

 

[Telkwa]

VICTORY IS MINE! 

 

 Now to go to the junk yard tomorrow and get a new pulley and a KA24 oil pump

 

I'm glad to hear that you're moving forward again.  Does the KA 2.4 oil pump bolt right in?  Is it more powerful than the NAPS pump?

 

 

[bmacster]

 

VICTORY IS MINE! 

 

 Now to go to the junk yard tomorrow and get a new pulley and a KA24 oil pump

 

I'm glad to hear that you're moving forward again.  Does the KA 2.4 oil pump bolt right in?  Is it more powerful than the NAPS pump?

 

 

 

Per datzenmike - Oil pump? yes the S13 KA24E that's the '89-'94 240sx single cam motor or any Truck (D-21 Hardbody) KA24 E or DE motor has the external high volume oil pump.

 

It increases the idle oil pressure by 14%, give or take.

Edited May 25, 2013 by bmacster

[datzenmike]

Ha ha not more powerful just 13% larger internal rotors and moves more oil.

[bmacster]

Ha ha not more powerful just 13% larger internal rotors and moves more oil.

 

Which btw - Found one (there were 3 in the junkyard, one of the motors had only 65k miles on it) 

 

I'll have to go back on Tuesday to grab the rest of the goodies. Finally found one that had a hitch too

[Sick720]

Haha you never know about that 65k miles. My odometer stoped working at 68k and I've had my pickup for 8 years now, lol and it's been a daily driver the whole time! So there's no tellin' how many miles it might have.

[bmacster]

Haha you never know about that 65k miles. My odometer stoped working at 68k and I've had my pickup for 8 years now, lol and it's been a daily driver the whole time! So there's no tellin' how many miles it might have.

 

I was thinking about that today as a matter of fact. I'm gonna get a bunch of the parts off the truck, wayyyy too nice not too. 

[bmacster]

Got the hub and cover off today. I'd love to drop the oil pan but there does not seem to be any room to do it with the motor in the bay and the front differential, unless there is some trick I can't seem to figure out...

 

 

 

[bmacster]

The only other BIG concern appears to be at this point are the threads on the crankshaft bolt and the threads. They were too terrible, but some one previously has done this job. I did find the source of the leaks though - The oil pan bolts are all seemingly not tight, at all...

[bmacster]

Before I start tossing it all back together, I wanted to your opinion. 

 

The punch hole/chain doesn't seem to quite match up what the book says. This was my TDC though and I have verified it. 

 

 

And one thing I didn't catch was just how bad the thing needed a valve adjustment. 

[bmacster]

(sigh) oil pan gasket fell out during the install. Didn't see it until after I was in the process of reinstalling the crankshaft pulley and moved a drip pan out of the way....