Kyo Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Been Talking with the 2nd ( bought in 83 ) and 3rd ( bought in 2003 ) Owners of this 1973 Datsun 240Z I am considering buying.. Wondering on what a good price point would be to offer.. She is not set on a price as of yet.. Details and Pic's 1973 Datsun 240Z Clean Tittle 3 Owners Originally Brown ( Repaited Red in 88 due to fading paint, also had some rust on rear wheel wells fixed at same time ) 160ish K Miles Engine Top end gone thru a few years ago Runs and Drives with clutch clatter noise. Thoughts? Any areas you see that stand out I need to take a strong look at? been a while since i owned a datsun so really unsure on what would be a fair price to offer... Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Looks good. I'd offer maybe $5Kish? Everything looks to be there for the most part. Can't tell since my internet connection is shit in this condo. Quote Link to comment
dat77sun Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 everything looks good, paint is kinda iffy, i see a few spots where its chipped off, id offer probly 4000-4500 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 check floor boards for rust/patches, run your hand on top of the inner rear wheel arches to see if the rust repair was patched right, i.e. no globs of bondo pushed in. Always start low, $2500 if the floor boards and wheel arches have been repaired correctly. Don't let the shiny paint fool you. Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Damn that's clean the interior is gorgeous, clean engine is all there paint could use some touch up but no dents from what i can see on the body make sure to look under the car, rocker panels, battery tray, & floors if possible. Price varies in different locations also shape is determined differently wouldn't offer more than $5000 Quote Link to comment
Kyo Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Thanks for the advice guys, I am hoping to check it out later this week or next and should have more to report then... Quote Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 30k or more. Think more. Leno-inflation applies. Just take and throw handfuls of money at the guy until he tells you to stop. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 30k or more. Think more. Leno-inflation applies. Just take and throw handfuls of money at the guy until he tells you to stop. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Kyo Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Leno-inflation? I had to google Leno + Datsun.. Did not know he owned one... Quote Link to comment
darc510 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Leno-inflation? I had to google Leno + Datsun.. Did not know he owned one... He doesn't..watch the video ;) Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Leno-inflation? I had to google Leno + Datsun.. Did not know he owned one... He doesn't..watch the video ;) Maybe even start a thread about it.. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Maybe even start a thread about it.. :rofl: :rofl: Oh gawd no... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 if you plan on doing moar to it no more than 3k , if just driving 4500 max! Quote Link to comment
Kyo Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 My plan would be to drive for a few months enjoying it and geting to know the car / what it needs / what I want out of it / Ect... Then digg in to it towards end of Summer with my Brother and Nephew.. Quote Link to comment
xxmass Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 pretty darn nice! what are your intentions? drive it like it is? fender flares and $2k of rims and tires? suspension mods? de-smog is $20-$30. is it a toy for you or a daily driver? Quote Link to comment
Kyo Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 ^ Short term goals, toy / driver.. Long term goals, restoration project for the Family.. Quote Link to comment
Kyo Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Okay another update with more detais and some of the rust i saw when checking out the car.. Was Told early round-top carbs were swaped on 10+ years ago. When First taking off and shifting I got massive clunking / shaking ( Mustache Bar Broken is my thought, or Front Diff Mount? Difficult Fix? ) When Taking Corners / Turns more clunking in rear / tire rubing sounds?? Same as above?? Heater core / Hoses Leak after it was first started and turned off.. Did not notice more leaking during test drive but definetly leaks heavy.. Key Rotates all the way around 360 before hitting Start. not sure if problem but weird. lol Forgot to check tool boxes, Spare wheel well looked good. See Pics for rest of rust.. More Rust then what I was first lead to believe when speaking to the owner over the phone / Email.. As I was pointing all this out I was taking her price down.. She Started off wanting just about 4K by the end of today she said she will take $2,700.... Is that a good deal for how much rust the car has?? Sorry for all the questions I got nothing but time and dont want to buy a overpriced dud.. Pics, sorry for bad quality they were taken with my camera phone.. Bad Pic, but the Coner you see on the underside of the hatch is rusted.. Quote Link to comment
devilsbullet Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 that's not a terrible price for what you're getting, but i'd get a handle on that rust quick if I was you. otherwise(and if any of it is thru rust) I hope you own a welder and know how to use it. gotta remember how far the unibody on these go. front fenders, hood, back hatch, and doors can be changed, everything else would have to be patched in some way. that being said, its a fair price for a moving 240 that's not a rust bucket. clunking when shifting and taking off may be u joints (mine does the same thing, has been for a year, and I drive it 60 miles a day, 5/6 days a week, hasn't failed me yet...but I need to fix the issue lol) not positive on the turning tho. may be something screwy with the rear suspension. all in all, if you're planning on a full restoration and aren't a welder, i'd pass on it. if you are a welder, or aren't concerned with a full/perfect resto and want to keep it more toy, jump on it. i'm a big fan of z's tho, so i'm kinda biased lol. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 I wouldn't touch that big of a rust bucket for $500, nevermind $2700. The rust will only be worse when you start stripping things down. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 check floor boards for rust/patches, run your hand on top of the inner rear wheel arches to see if the rust repair was patched right, i.e. no globs of bondo pushed in. Always start low, $2500 if the floor boards and wheel arches have been repaired correctly. Don't let the shiny paint fool you. The rust holes along the top of the frame rail are common and can be patched. What you think might already be a patch is stock stiffener. Same with the footwells. What looks like a piece of sheet metal on the under side of the footwells is another what I call a stiffener. The hatch area(ledge) looks surprisingly good. From what I can see of the floorboards they don't look too bad either. Lift up the carpeting and jute and inspect from inside. For me it would all depend on the previous body work, was it done right with metal patches of did they just put a putty knife full of bondo along the rear wheel arches. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 I looks pretty good but like they have said above if you see rust there is plenty more lurking. But it's a good car and I think $2-$2500. would not be a bad deal. I've fixed some with a lot more rust than that. Nice thing is the engine bay looks to have all the original parts. And the rear hatch area is good so that's a plus. I've owned quite few Z over the years. 10 + cars. So I've seen quite a few that were beyond repair and this is not one of them. Buy it, fix it, drive it. Quote Link to comment
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