Jump to content

z24 in a 510?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

The Z24 is a truck motor and so will have a rear mount sump on it. You will need a front sump pan and pick-up from an S110 200sx or a late A10 (PL510) to (probably) clear the X member. You will also need a transmission that fits the Z series motor from a truck ot the above cars. Only the A10 transmission will fit without cutting the driveshaft but it's not really designed for use with a Z24... just sayin'.


I think a Z24s 130 ft lbs of low speed torque will impress you. That's 30% more than an L20B. It's not a high revving motor but should turn the wheels around town.

Link to comment

You can use the L16 (510) pan and pickup, but the pan will have the wrong angle, so it will not drain properly nor be level.  That may or may not cause clearance issues.


The A10 pan isn't the same as a 510.  It's EXTREME front-sump, which requires moving the dipstick to the front.  A 510 is more mid-sump. 

Link to comment
Is the Z24 the only Z block that you can't use a PL510 pan and pickup?

from everything i have read due to the extra height you cant just bolt l20b stuff on it you need to modify the timing cover at the very least 


my opinion for all the trouble it will take to put a z24 in why not just go ka?

Link to comment

The Z24 is about 100 pounds lighter than the KA.... make that 80 pounds. Makes a lot of low speed torque and has a non EFI carb and easy to fix/trouble shoot. If you are used to L series you can work on a Z. It would be on the road faster than converting to a KA.

Link to comment
from everything i have read due to the extra height you cant just bolt l20b stuff on it you need to modify the timing cover at the very least 


my opinion for all the trouble it will take to put a z24 in why not just go ka?


I only was talking about that pan and pickup... thats why I quoted the oil pan statement and only mentioned the pan and pickup. 

Link to comment

Take this as you wish.... but the husband did a Z20e swap into our 510 last Spring and it was definitely not as straight forward as he had anticipated.  I imagine there are plenty of differences in the Z24, but there are sure to be plenty of similarities as well.  Here is a link to the project thread on it, and he put up a fair amount of info on the first page about the initial bumps in the road.  He didn't want to flip the cross-member, so it made it a bit more difficult to make everything clear, but the motor mounts were another issue, and clearance of the steering linkage was another. 


To be honest though, I don't know how similar they are on the bottom ends though, so it could be a different deal with the Z24.


Here's some info from our thread:


Apparently, putting a Z20e (or any other Z motor) into a 510 is not as straightforward as an L20b. I found this out after I got the engine. The problem is that a stock Z20e engine sits at a different angle in the engine compartment than the L-Series engines, despite the bottom end being pretty much an L-block. If I were to slap an L-series head onto the Z motor, I could easily get away with using all the L16 equipment to put the engine in. However, I want EFI and I want to do it cheap. Plus I want to try something a bit more challenging than an L-swap. And a bunch of other small reasons.<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">
<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">

Because of the engine angle, I basically have two choices since the 200sx Z20e has a front-sump oil pan: 1. Get a new oil pan and pick-up or 2. Reverse the crossmember and lose the swaybar.

Initially I tried to find a mid-rear sump Z-engine oilpan, but I don't think they exist. I did pull a 720 Z22 rear-sump pan, but it will conflict with the 510 steering linkage. Then I was considering the crossmember reversal because it sounded easier, but I don't think that is the case anymore. My plan now is to combine parts from the 200sx oilpan and the 720 oilpan. Basically hack out the area on the 720 oilpan where the steering linkage would go, and put in pieces from the 200sx pan. I may lose a bit of oil capacity, but I will to make some measurements to see if it will be a problem.

The pickup doesn't seem to be an issue. I took the 720 rear sump pickup and test fit it inside the L16 oilpan. There didn’t seem to be any issues with its location if I were to use it in a mid-rear application.


The only other hurdle I am dealing with now is the oil dipstick. The Z20e front sump has its dipstick too far forward to go into the mid-rear sump pan correctly. Fortunately the Z20e block has provisioning for four different dipstick locations. From the looks of it, the left-rear location (position #2 in photo) is just too far back. The stick will probably contact the shallow-rear portion of the pan and bend. But we will have to see when I do the actual fit up. It may work. This also means I would have to go grab a Z22 dipstick and tube because it appears the height of the two locations is off by about an inch.

Link to comment

The L20B is about 270 pounds.

The KA24E S13 motor is 380 pounds (give or take)

The Z24 has a slightly larger crank, slightly taller block and rods so maybe 20 pounds more than an L20B.


The S13 KA24E has a crank girdle.



The block is wider and the back has more metal covering the transmission






Huge EFI intake and throttle chamber


Link to comment
  • 7 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.