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Lowering 710

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So I have a 710 that I want to lower a little as I hear it makes for better handling and I think it looks a bit better. I think it's stock but it may have new suspension in the front I'm not 100% sure but the back leaf spring were either already lowered a little or are sagging. What I want to know is how I can lower it maybe 1 or 2 inches from stock height either on a budget or if I can for fairly cheap do it right. I have searched and searched for ways to lower a 710 and come up empty handed, is it the same as you would a 510?

 

 

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PICS!!!

How Much Money Are You Willing To Spend??

How Low Do You Want To Go?

You Can Cut 2 Coils Out Of The Front To Make It Sit Even

It Will Be Maybe 2" Lower And Handle Abit Nicer

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Well I don't know what this will generally cost but I'll say maybe $400 more if need be for a good job, as I said 1-2 inches or a little more, I don't want to "slam" it I just want it to sit a little lower.

 

So cutting the coils in the front, is there a how-to video someone can link?

 

I don't have a good side picture at the moment but this is what I have

1209120842.jpg

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Nice!!!

That Looks Like Stock Height

So You Basically Want It To Sit Level With The Rear?

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simple you take the front struts out get a strut spring compressor and remove the top hat and cut a coil or 2 off of it for the rear lowering blocks will do the trick 

 

06102012_Canby_2012_231_.jpg

 

this is my 610 (identical front suspension as the 710) its got 3 coils cut out of it with 185/65/14s on the front its not "slammed" by any means

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Does the lowering block add negative camber in the back or does it jsut look like it has negative camber in that picture?

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ignore my rear end the 610s have independent rear suspension like a 510 where the 710 has leaf springs and live axle block wont give you negative camber

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You can lower the front struts and make it fully adjustable for well under $50. This also includes replacing the strut fluid with something thicker which improved the damping action. You do not want the front end to travel the same distance on bumps as it did when higher. Remember that it is lower and closer to things on the road. Reducing the spring travel is a simple mater of cutting the spring. By my calculations the stock spring has a rate of about 100 pounds per inch, maybe just slightly stiffer than a 510. Removing just over one coil increases this to 150 PPI or 50% stiffer. I found I liked the ride just fine at this amount, you and others may find it too much or too little but one thing is for sure once cut, you can't go back. Best to try cutting 1/4 coils at a time.

 

 

Starts about 1/2 way down this page... http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/My%20710%20Goon/goon5speedswap208Large.jpg

 

 

For the rears I trimmed a spare longer flatter spring and doubled the second or third leaf. This lowered ever so slightly but more importantly it stiffened the spring rate. I also used 2" lowering blocks for a 620 axle. Had to hammer the U bolts in a bit to match the H-165 axle width. I had some truck shocks I stretched out against the stock ones and cut 2" out and welded them back together so there was no chance of bottoming them out.

 

Ignore the tires. It has 215/60R14 now

710rearsuspension015Large.jpg

 

Newmeat003Large.jpg

 

.

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Thanks, so for $50 I can replace the fluid? Or did you mean I can get coilovers for it for around $50.  Did you mean to link that picture of your transmission?

 

Also I found somewhere awhile back that said you could take the leaf spring out, bring it to a spring shop and have it flattened a little so that it lowers the car and putting it back in doesn't require any fab work or anything but still get a bit lower. Is that true?

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Sure it is true. Leaf Springs technology is over 100 years old, so there is lots you can do with it. Go to a local spring shop.

 

710 lowering and 510 wagon lowering is almost exactly the same.

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I would like to add to this, or add more questions, rather.  (Perhaps this could just become a thread for lowering all the less common models?)

 

I have an 810 wagon, which (I'll assume) has a similar suspension to the 610, 710, and 620 (Leaf sprung beam axle).  I'd like to get mine down ~ 2 inches.  I'll just use blocks for the 620 in the rear, the way DatzenMike did above.  I don't want to be cutting or stitching up anything though.  What was the purpose of cutting and welding the rear shock?  Could I just use a stiffer shock?  Looks like KYB still produces a replacement rear shock for the 810 wagon.

 

For the front, once again, I don't want to cut anything.  I've heard (gossip) that the 810 and 280x strut inserts are basically the same, but that the 280zx strut insert is one inch shorter than the 810 insert.  I'm wondering, first, if anyone has actually compared them side by side.  Secondly, I'm wondering how similar the 810 and 280zx strut assemblies are and if a 280zx strut assembly combined with a "lowering" 280zx spring (maybe 1" shorter?) would offer the 2 inch drop I'm looking for.

 

I feel like this combination, if it all works, would offer a more consistent, less bumpy, and easily replacable ride height drop.

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Thanks, so for $50 I can replace the fluid? Or did you mean I can get coilovers for it for around $50.  Did you mean to link that picture of your transmission?

 

Also I found somewhere awhile back that said you could take the leaf spring out, bring it to a spring shop and have it flattened a little so that it lowers the car and putting it back in doesn't require any fab work or anything but still get a bit lower. Is that true?

END QUOTE

 

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No, for under $50 you can stiffen the spring, make the ride height adjustable and replace the strut fluid with something thicker. I used 20W motorcycle front fork oil for all the anti foam and wear additives and the rust inhibitors, to increase the dampening.

 

2" (inner diameter) split collars............................. $25 (probably cheaper ones on line)

Bellray 20W motorcycle hydraulic fork oil............. $17 (For that you could get a gallon of cheap jack oil, ATF is around 10W? For freezing weather don't go above 30W)

Metal cut off disc...................................................$04

 

Tools: 6" angle grinder, dental pick, pipe wrench, hydraulic jack, pail for old oil.....

 

Remove 710 strut and compress the spring and take apart. Shorten the spring one coil (to start) and set aside. I used a 6" angle grinder with a metal cutting disc on it.

 

With a pipe wrench, loosen the gland nut on the strut and lift out the small O ring inside with tweezers or dental pick. Now the internal strut valving assy can be lifted out. Messy, so have something to catch the old hydraulic fluid. Keep the inner valving parts clean. If they have never been replaced, this is what you should find inside. If it has been replaced, there will be a cartridge. (shock absorber) You can opt for new ones if these are worn out but like I say they probably still have the stock re-buildable ones.

 

Trim around the top of the lower spring perch just above the weld and slip the spring perch up and off.

 

Grind the weld down and smooth the strut tube where it was. Again use the angle grinder.

 

Install strut valving and fill with 20W hydraulic oil or equivalent. Snug gland nut and holding the strut upright, pull the center piston rod out fully and push back in fully. Now hold upside down and pull piston rod out fully downward and push back in. This will bleed any air out of the valves. Remove gland nut and add fluid to 1/2" from top. Tighten gland nut.

 

Slip 2" (inch) inner diameter split collars onto strut tube, (perhaps just below the smoothed area) then slide the lower spring perch down on top of it, instal the shortened coil spring making sure the coil fits properly into perch. Instal top hat and tighten nut being aware that the top spring end must engage the top hat properly.

 

Instal struts. I used a hydraulic jack to push the loosened split collars up the strut tube while the car is still raised, to compress the spring slightly. Tighten the split collars to hold everything. Lower car carefully, as it's unknown how low the car will settle to it's new ride height. If too low, raise the weight off the front, place jack under split collar to support it, loosen it and jack the collar higher. Tighten and do the same on the other side.

 

These are stock struts so you should not lower more than a couple of inches or rick bottoming the strut out an bad bumps. This is why the spring is shortened... to add stiffness and resistance to travel. Thicker hydraulic oil will also reduce some of the travel.

 

If you are brave and think you can handle more stiffness you should be able to raise the front, support the collar, loosen and relax the spring and let it slide down the strut tube where you can cut a 1/4 or 1/2 coil off. The collar will now have to be slid higher up the tube for a shortened spring. A stiffer spring rate will resist bottoming out better but still be careful.

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damn all sorts of 710s poping up out of the wood work lately. another coupe even :cool:

 

heres my coupe with 2in blocks in the rear and front coilovers.

 

6239_304978259602805_1931426572_n.jpg

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Great detail mike! :cool:

I got 2 sets of collars and then set my per he's high to start. Then used the second set to mark my adjusted height, dropped the first set down on them , tightedned them back up and did it again. Don't forget that lowering your car effect toe.

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So after cutting the springs, how are you keeping the spring in the top perch when driving and the shock rebounding off a bump? Does the slower rebound  of the heavier oil keep the strut from extending past the top off the spring since the strut would extend to it longer stock length?

Mine is defiantly moving on rebound but I did not stiffing up my struts yet, do we think this will resolve the problem of a loose spring? I know some people use wire to hold the springs onto the perches but that cant hold for very long I wouldn't think.

 I cut two complete coils off the front springs on my 1200 and only dropped about 3/4 of an inch. I want to go about another inch but that seems like an impossibility with the stock strut length due to the above comments. Is the 710 that different than the 1200? Any insight.

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Simple: do not cut the spring that much. Instead, lower the spring perch

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So after cutting the springs, how are you keeping the spring in the top perch when driving and the shock rebounding off a bump? Does the slower rebound  of the heavier oil keep the strut from extending past the top off the spring since the strut would extend to it longer stock length?

Mine is defiantly moving on rebound but I did not stiffing up my struts yet, do we think this will resolve the problem of a loose spring? I know some people use wire to hold the springs onto the perches but that cant hold for very long I wouldn't think.

 I cut two complete coils off the front springs on my 1200 and only dropped about 3/4 of an inch. I want to go about another inch but that seems like an impossibility with the stock strut length due to the above comments. Is the 710 that different than the 1200? Any insight.

 

 

I would cut around the 710 lower spring perch and make them adjustable.  Trim the spring one coil to start. I wouldn't go two or it will maybe too stiff and/or too low. Assemble it and compress the spring slightly against the fully extended strut and use split collars to support and hold the lower spring perch in place. Now if you bounce in the air the strut will extend fully but the spring is still slightly compressed. If you leave the bottom perch where it is you may possibly shorten the spring enough for it to be loose on the strut.

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Mine is now loose on the strut. Beside spring rate< what would be the difference between lowering the perch instead of cutting the spring? dosent it accomplish the same effect? In other words lowering the top of the spring?

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Well it's loose when jacked up but the spring is still compressed slightly when on the ground, right?

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Yes, it is on the springs when grounded and does seem a bit stiffer which I am happy with. I am thinking that because my struts are so shot, Like zero resistance that on rebound they are lifting the top perch off the spring and causing a nasty sound. I think I want to avoid any problems and will skip rebuilding the stock struts and go for the shorter tube with insert option. Stay tuned

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Keep in mind that you can't lower it forever. An inch or two or you risk bottoming out the strut. A cut spring is stiffer which helps. I swapped in Maxima struts which were an inch and a half shorter to begin with.

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On ‎12‎/‎13‎/‎2012 at 3:54 PM, Skib said:

damn all sorts of 710s poping up out of the wood work lately. another coupe even 🆒

 

heres my coupe with 2in blocks in the rear and front coilovers.

 

6239_304978259602805_1931426572_n.jpg

 

What coilovers did you go with

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6 hours ago, Coastiesun said:

 

What coilovers did you go with

 

Just some 2in ID sleeves and ebach springs. 

 

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 3BO50rm.jpg

 

I found him!!!!!

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lolol I havent been able to log in since the update.... Im having to figure out how to use this shit 😂

 

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