L20b rebuild options

[slowmomiata]

i have read and read and searched and searched online, but

i cannot find for the life of me a good engine rebuild kit for a

L20b

 

i am buying a used long block from my neighbor down the street

for 50 dollars, and i really want to rebuild it and do some mild

porting to the head, and a Cannon dual weber intake, my

only problem is i cant find anything to do any of this???

 

i dont want to build a high high compression engine, the

head on the L20 has U67, from my understanding thats

the square port low compression head? thats fine with me,

my car is just a dd but the stock l16 doesnt have the torque

like i want/need when i have 4 people cruising with me,

so an l20 seems logical.

 

could anyone share some links on where to find:

 

good full master rebuild kit

cannon intake manifold

connecting rods

pistons

mild camshaft

and other bits like valve stems, keepers, etc

 

my goal for the car is to rebuild the l20, swap it in,

cruise it, i want just a little more power for

better driveability, i also want to keep the

compression low

 

 

 

and on a side note, i cant really find info on auto -> man

swaps, i have a 4spd 280z and 5spd zx tranny, and no

driveshaft from either car, but i would really love to

go to a manual, any info is greatly appreciated, tia

[Dat Lurka]

Rockauto Ratsun

 

There's even built in google search at the top of the page.

 

Did you actually look for any of that or are you messing with us?

 

Might as well hone that block and get the head machined if you're doing all that. Why do you want to keep the compression low?

 

Any auto to manual swap is going to require a pedal assembly, clutch, lines, possibly a sawzall

[Skib]

thats all common info. spend some more time searching.

auto to manual swap can be done in a day if you have everything.

 

you can reuse the pistons/rods/crank thats in there already.

no need to buy new ones.

 

engine rebuild stuff can be ordered in at any parts store.

[Zeusimo]

Also Remember That Autozone Is Not A "Parts Store"

[izzo]

Also Remember That Autozone Is Not A "Parts Store"

 

Right. Napa, rock auto. Use those before AutoZone... At least for electrical parts. Also remember, every time you capitalize every word in a sentence - 510freak buys another stereo.

[screamer510]

I know there's been at least 2 of these threads...

 

RockAuto is your friend, just fond out what car and year the L20 came out of.

 

Good luck

[banzai510(hainz)]

i dont want to build a high high compression engine, the

head on the L20 has U67, from my understanding thats

the square port low compression head?

 

perfect I would just rebuild it as stock if the block and head are good

Matchport the intake and open up thestock L16 manifold and buy a weber 38/38 carb.

 

PS a L20 usesa 6 bolt crank and youll need a clutch set up to fit this so think this out what you really need.

To make this the most direct swap youll need a 200mm flywheel as all the 510 stuff will or can be used or a Roadster.

 

if this a daily driver whats wrong with the L16. I drive 2 of them.

 

buy parts from rockauto oer where ever. Carquest? Napa youll have to pc it together.

 

any ques task before you buy/ esp when it comes to timming kits. Cloyes Melling all suck.

[datzenmike]

i am buying a used long block from my neighbor down the street

for 50 dollars, and i really want to rebuild it and do some mild

porting to the head, and a Cannon dual weber intake, my

only problem is i cant find anything to do any of this???

 

good full master rebuild kit

cannon intake manifold

connecting rods

pistons

mild camshaft

and other bits like valve stems, keepers, etc

 

my goal for the car is to rebuild the l20, swap it in,

cruise it, i want just a little more power for

better driveability, i also want to keep the

compression low

 

 

 

and on a side note, i cant really find info on auto -> man

swaps, i have a 4spd 280z and 5spd zx tranny, and no

driveshaft from either car, but i would really love to

go to a manual, any info is greatly appreciated, tia

 

Cannon intake and dual side drafts?? This will run you $500 (used) and probably double that. Get a Redline weber 32/36 about $300 and it fits your intake. Nice improvement over stock.

 

Why do you think you need new connecting rods???? The old ones are fine and don't wear out.

 

Valve stems??? Seals maybe? Keepers are reusable.

 

Swap auto to z or zx 5 speed?

parts list:

If using with an L20B you need to find a 6 bolt flywheel. While all flywheels are physically the same size they are drilled and tapped for 200mm, 225mm and 240mm clutch assemblies. All will work, but you can't use a 240mm clutch on a 225mm flywheel so pick a size you want and buy your clutch parts accordingly.

If using an L16 or L18 motor you will need a 5 bolt flywheel. L16 5 bolt 'wheels' only come in 200mm clutch sizes.

 

A clutch and pressure plate assembly to match your choice of flywheel above. Try to get one that also includes the release bearing holder, or collar. Or you will have to source this separately. The release collar must match the pressure plate you are using. 200mm, 225mm or 240mm. It's very specific and cannot be mixed.

 

A release bearing. It is pressed onto the end of the release bearing collar.

 

A pilot bushing. It fits in the end of the crankshaft and supports the front end of the transmission input shaft.

 

A clutch arm and dust boot. (may be on the 4 or 5 speed)

 

A set of clutch and brake peddles. including the push rod to the clutch master, attachment bolts and springs.

 

A clutch master cylinder. They are cheap so get a new one.

 

A slave cylinder.... be sure to get the push rod to the clutch arm. (may be on the 4 or 5 speed)

 

A hard line from the master down near the slave and a flex line from the body hard line to the slave. You can buy suitable length pre made brake line and simply bent it yourself.

 

Shifter and boot for the 4 or 5 speed. (may be on the 4 or 5 speed)

 

Shorten the 510 sedan driveshaft from 42 9/16" to 37 3/8" . This is measured from the center of the U joint to center of the U joint.

 

When you remove the automatic flex plate be sure to remove the spacer plate that covers the end of all automatic crankshafts. Or you will have trouble mounting the flywheel.

 

With spacer attached...

 

Without spacer...

 

Modify the transmission rear mount

 

[slowmomiata]

wow thats a wealth of information, thanks for a start,

i am picking up the engine tomorrow and i will tear

it down and see what i am dealing with internally, it

may be pretty rusty inside, but well see.

 

on a side note, a nasty ticking sound just started coming

from my valve cover area and its rpm related, engine

speed goes up it speeds up etc, what could that possibly be?

its dark and super windy hear so i couldnt get a chance to

pop the valve cover off, but i fear something came loose

in there and i am afraid to open pandoras box.....

[datzenmike]

wow thats a wealth of information, thanks for a start,

 

It was a slow day....

 

 

on a side note, a nasty ticking sound just started coming

from my valve cover area and its rpm related, engine

speed goes up it speeds up etc, what could that possibly be?

 

Probably valve lash needs setting. Is it only on cold start up? Does it get better when warmed up?

[slowmomiata]

well i started the car like normal and i always let my car run and idle for about 5 to ten minutes then drive, the needle said it was starting to warm up, so i leave my driveway and not even a block away it started ticking really bad from the valve cover area so i immediately turned around and parked it, i got brave about 20 minutes ago and ventured out into the dark with a head lamp, popped off the valve cover, i wiggled all the arms, and the srpings felt solid, the little retainers are all there and solid, i didnt bust out the feeler gauges yet because its retarded windy out, but.... me being the curious guy i am, i started just for about 10 seconds with the valve cover off, and it seems to be in the very front where the noise is coming from, it really seems like the fuel pump arm is chattering on its lobe, is this possible? also the chain on the right side of the engine feels really loose but i believe thats normal... the car starts right up like a champ no hesitation so i am sure the timing didnt jump. tomorrow i will adjust my valves, but do you all think i should remove the mechanical fuel pump and go electric? it really really sounds like its coming from there...

[datzenmike]

Look down the chain guides... are they broken, loose or missing any of their 'rubber' covering?

 

In the daytime check for a broken spring. When setting the lash give the rockers and lash pads a good look over.

[slowmomiata]

ok i will look it over tomorrow after i am done shopping with the girlfriend,

i hope its nothing major, looking down the timing cover, i am looking at the

guide to see if any bits are missing?

 

and is it possible for the fuel pump to chatter on that lobe?

[datzenmike]

Well you could remove the pump on a warm motor and start it up with the gas that's in the carb. If the noise is gone then it has to be the pump.

 

One thing I forgot.... look and see if there is a spacer between the fuel pump and the head casting. Often they are removed and the 1/4" spacer is forgotten. The pump arm will now sit too far in and wear against the cam lobe. It should be pump, gasket, spacer, gasket, head.

[slowmomiata]

ya, i got too busy today gift shopping but tomorrow i will

take a look inside and post what i find, i feel like the car

is being neglected not being driven, breaks my heart...

[slowmomiata]

got it all figured out, kinda scary...

 

i adjusted all my valves and all my valve rattle went away,

but the noise was coming from the water pump pulley, the

PO's of the car had it serviced here at a place that

"specializes" in imports, well they supposedly fixed the radiator

leak and replaced the water pump, in reality, they put in some

radiator stop leak and put on a new water pump, but left lost

a bolt that holds the water pump on and had the pulley on by

1 and a half bolts, they broke on inside the plate that it bolts to.

 

so i went and bought 4 new bolts for the pulley, and tried to find

a bolt for the one missing, but i cant figure out what size it is,

this is where i need help, i have the water pump without the clutch

on it, the biggest top left bolt is there, but i am missing the next

one to the right going clockwise, its 10mm on missing i believe,

is it an oddball size? like length and diameter? the smaller

10mm bolts on the right side of the pump dont fit in and neither

do the bigger ones from the left side by the alternator, could some one

if they have time pull the bolt out and get the measurements from it for

me that way i can have piece of mind, it doesnt leak but still, rather

annoying...

[DanielC]

On a Datsun engine, there are three common sizes of bolt diameters, and thread pitches.

M 6 x 1.0, usually has a 10 MM head

M 8 x 1.25 can have a 12 or a 13 MM head

M 10 x 1.5 can have a 14 or a 17 MM head.

 

Your water pump is held by 6, and 8 MM bolts. The bolts that hold the fan, and the pulley on the water pump flange are 6 MM

[slowmomiata]

ya i got new fan and pulley bolts i am just missing one water pump bolt,

when i am back home from work i will find figure it out, i hate being out of

town i dont get to go cruise the car after work