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Ka24e supercharged build


Rustina 510

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So. Tired of the l20 again.

 

Got this from Adam. On his b-day... Thx Adam and happy b-day

 

8440DF54-783F-4075-B4CB-55C2019DC2CE-1416-000001542CB50ED8.jpg

 

I was told she has a bad rod, but I'm rebuilding from scratch using all forged and high performance parts

 

And this

23DC7075-F20F-4E3A-B740-7A10292997AD-4714-000006A45FB92458.jpg

 

A whipple twin screw supercharger, running a adjustable 8-15 lbs of constant boosties with no spool time, no extra tubing, no need for a inner cooler because they don't get hot, and I love the way a supercharged 4 banger sounds.

 

And possibly I might try this new electric bypass intake tube I have been reading about, so I can turn te supercharger on and off when I feel like it.

 

I'm not a motor guy and I will need some help, I'm also lookin for a rear sump single cam oil pan so I won't have to flip the x member, and I'm wondering what solid rear axle I should use, I can't afford the fab price for Independant rear suspension

 

Finished upgrading the brakes and front suspension already, so I think I'm nicely prepped for this next step on the wagoon

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I won't be using a eaton supercharger, they lack the boost numbers I'm aiming for.

 

Whipple makes a little twin screw sc that has some great boost numbers.

Pulleys, man. Pulleys.

Eatons are cheap and plentiful. A Whipple will probably cost more than the car's worth.

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Was looking for a gasket kit for my KA-e, found a Victor Reinz Part # 95-3241VR to be the best one so far. Ebay has it for $115 shipped. Do you have one picked out? I'm looking for options. Rockauto has a DJN for $80+ shipping.. Not sure I'd trust that kit though. Thoughts?

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Yeah spud it's the motor you sold Adam, I finally got my hands on it and I'm almost done with the tear down, have some parts on order, not much yet, focusing on getting the block back to perfect shape, then getting the head port, polished and a new cam in their, then all new internals for the block.

 

I still can't get the crank to turn due to the cylinder 2 rod cap lodged between the crank and the block, so removing the crank is top priority tonight.

 

I'll be sure to keep up on my poor quality pics as well.

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