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stock L16 dipstick?


laotsu

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I just did an oil change for the first time myself on my L16 and put in 4.5 quarts with a fresh filter which is what my manual said to do. looked right at the H line yesterday and I drove and checked it. all looked good. so today I check it again cold and it looks a half quart HIGH! Then I noticed that my dipstick says B2000 along the side. seems to be the riginal but Idunno could it be from a L20b? could a kind L16 owner post a pic of their dipstick tip?

no pics now but I can post some later if need be.

 

not sure how oil rises overnight , I'm gonna do another change just to be safe.

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Oil level rises from 2 reasons:

 

Water in oil

Fuel in oil

 

However, it may not be rising at all. It may just be taking that long for it all to drain back to the pan. Overnight will do it. Right after shutting off? Not. Or you could have a bad anti-drainback valve and a FRAM filter (or a filter with no anti-drainback valve), which would eventually drain the half quart in the filter back to the pan overnight too.

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Oil level rises from 2 reasons:

 

Water in oil

Fuel in oil

 

However, it may not be rising at all. It may just be taking that long for it all to drain back to the pan. Overnight will do it. Right after shutting off? Not. Or you could have a bad anti-drainback valve and a FRAM filter (or a filter with no anti-drainback valve), which would eventually drain the half quart in the filter back to the pan overnight too.

 

yeah that's what's weird it read right after getting it to temp and letting it sit for five minutes, but then when I checked it cold this morning it was high, (and I was not).

 

I just had an epiphony, maybe when I checked it hot, five minutes wasnt enough time for the filter to drain and I overfilled!

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The dipstick on the easiest to reach L-16 I have has HB2000 on it.

 

I always added 4 quarts, including the filter, and this is with a L-16 in a 521. Sitting overnight is too long. I would expect the oil level to read slightly high. On level ground, shut the warm engine off. Let it sit about a minute. The oil level should be between the add and fill mark. The difference is about a quart.

 

If the oil level is too low, obviously, you could suck air into the oil passages. I had a L-18, that used, or lost a little oil between oil changes, and it had an oil pressure gauge, plumbed with 1/4 tubing. With that size of tubing, the oil pressure gauge rises and falls about as quick as the Tachometer. When I started a cold engine, and started to drive it, if the oil pressure fluctuated, it needed some oil added to the engine. As the engine got warm, before I had time to add a quart, the pressure would stop dropping, as the warm oil ran down into the oil pan faster.

 

If the oil level is too high the crankshaft will hit it, and whip the oil in to a frothy mess, with air bubbles throughout the oil in the pan. The oil pump will suck the air and oil in to the oil passages.

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yeah that's what's weird it read right after getting it to temp and letting it sit for five minutes, but then when I checked it cold this morning it was high, (and I was not).

 

I just had an epiphony, maybe when I checked it hot, five minutes wasnt enough time for the filter to drain and I overfilled!

Oil filter drainback is not a good thing. make sure the filter you used has a anti drainback valve. you dont want the oil pump to have to fill the filter before building pressure on every startup.

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The dipstick on the easiest to reach L-16 I have has HB2000 on it.

 

I always added 4 quarts, including the filter, and this is with a L-16 in a 521.

 

 

yeah I think it's the super cheap oil filter I used, and it's a 521 so if you say you used four quarts I overfilled. The truck has never laeaked or burned a drop of oil, every time I have ever checked the stick it was always right at the full line... till I did this oil change.

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It's oil draining back into the pan. Not from the filter but the whole inside of the block, the crank, rods and piston bottoms, the front of the timing cover, all the timing gear and chain, the cam, valve springs rockers, and the under side of the valve cover. Probably more that I've forgotten. All wet with oil and spray that dribbles down into the pan over night.

 

Can't see how much oil drains back past the oil pump. It's a trochoid positive displacement pump with tight clearances. If anything drains, it's the oil in the block galleries dripping out the main and rod bearings into the pan.

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I checked the filter has a flow back valve so it must have been that I didnt let it sit long enough. Think it's safe to drain and reuse the oil? I am BROKE right now and $15 for more is out of the question right now. Maybe I'll go at it with a turkey baster and a piece of hose down the dipstick tube.

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Before you do anything radical, start it, and drive somewhere level. Park it, wait a minute, and check the oil level. That is enough time for normal drain off the top of the engine, but not so long that the oil galleys drain out. If the level is good, you are done.

 

You can suck some oil out the dipstick tube. Marine engines do this all the time.

Harbor Freight sells a handheld pump for about 8 dollars or so. If the picture works, this one.

image_16308.jpg

 

It is item #66418

 

Use the pump when the oil is warm, if you really need to remove some oil.

Another option to removing some oil is to wait until the engine is cold, overnight, and get a pan large enough to catch some oil, or spread a lot of rags around. Loosen the plug with a wrench, so you can turn it with your fingers. Get a can to catch some oil, even a large cottage cheese plastic container would work. Carefully unscrew the plug, holding the container under the drain. Once the plug comes out, wait about one second, and put the plug back in.

Now, clean up the mess, and you are done.

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I just did an oil change for the first time myself on my L16 and put in 4.5 quarts with a fresh filter which is what my manual said to do. looked right at the H line yesterday and I drove and checked it. all looked good. so today I check it again cold and it looks a half quart HIGH!

 

Half a Qt is nothing and will sit well below the crank. Once you start the motor About 3/4 Qt will be in the filter and all over the engine insides. It's only over the line when the motor is off.

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it's synthe

have this in it now with 1400 miles, have added 2 qts. ever since i put the matchbox and weber on i kind of have alot of fun racing around all the time.

C166F916-AFF6-439F-848B-46EA104D27FF-1477-000000E7919B6E57.jpg

Your engine used 2 quarts in 1400 miles? That's fairly high oil usage. A good engine will use a quart or less in 3000 miles.

 

it's synthetic I've heard a lot of stories of synthetic being too thin for the old engines and leaking out XX is that happening to you too?

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Probably. Is there a big oil spot where you park it over night???

 

Look for wetness at the front (timing cover oil seal) and back (rear crank seal) of the oil pan. Two qts. will be really obvious.

 

Switch back to anything 20W and up. These motors were designed to work with older oils. Now that they have lots of miles (and didn't have tight clearances to begin with) on them they gain very little from the expense of running synthetic oils.

 

700 miles per quart would have a blue cloud following you down the street.

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manufacturers say that it isnt that the oil is "too thin" but that it has so many detergents and thats what allows it to clean up and then escape gunked up areas.

i just changed my oil (10w40 synth) and it is too clean/thin to stick to the dipstick to get an accurate reading i feel

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