glorydime Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 I will look into it, my local car quest didn't have a pull choke in stock, so I am going to check with advance or auto zone I guess. I wish I could get my hands on a stock one, but.... Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 I have a stock 521 chock knob if you're looking for one. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 I was able to get my choke to work, I had to take it apart clean it out and had to take out the chord and straighten it out. It is working for now but I am going to keep my eye out for another one. After that I was looking around on this site and started looking into converting to a electric ignition instead of points. I noticed that my distributer is for a dual point, even though I always assumed I had a single point. The man I purchased my truck from had been running one dual point instead of both. I went to the parts store to buy two new points to replace this screw up, but there is a plate in the way where the other point would mount. Here is a photo. and please correct me if im wrong. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 No picture. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 I dont see a photo! running on the main set of points is OK. I say Better myself as I could never get them to work quite right with the dual set . Its meant to saturate the coil better or charge it better, I forget. the main point is the one thats hookeds up to the bigger condensor which is on the valve cover side. If you can find a 68-69 L16 specfic single point dizzy you can get a Pertronix conversion(uses the stock coil and ballast) But the cost of this is the same as getting a used Matchbox dizzy. But get the whole set up. the mount and the timming plate. Otherwise dont get it. It needs to match as a L16 mount and timming plate. olddatsuns.com in the tech section has a good write up on electronic ignition conversions Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 I have a complete EI dizzy and pedestal. Pm me of you're interested. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 sorry for the delay in photo, right after I post my last entry the my ftp stopped wanting to upload. Anyways, today on my ride home from work the choke messed up on me. I got out and manually opened the flap all the way open, but she kept hesitating, but ran great at idle, just needed a little more choke to run right. I bought another aftermarket cheap choke started to throw it in, but, its frustrating without the proper brackets to mount it correctly. Ill finish up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 The 2nd set of points will fit in there but ai wouldnt bother with them Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Well now that I have fixed the choke and put in the new points, the tailights started acting weird. Im not sure when it started, but I did just replace both tailights and passed inspection. The passenger side now will light up, however the center brake light only lights one of the filaments and the other separate light bulbs show very lightly. I am going to try just cleaning the sockets. You guys have any good recommendations besides steel wool? Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Check your ground wires from your taillights to your frame, clean or even put another ground. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46482-dim-light-question/ 1 Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I am about to lower my truck, I have looked all over the site for how low I can go with out suffering from bottoming out. Austin tx has terrible roads, I would like to lower her 4 inches but am worried about the ride. Would three be a better route or do you guys and gals think four would be okay? obviously I think four would look better, but figured Id ask, seems like some lower even more than four with no problems where others on here I have read about say even the three inch drop created issues. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I am referring to a 4 or 3 inch block in the rear and just leveling the front, so there is no rack forward or backwards. Quote Link to comment
konig209 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Idk where your located i have a dual point dizzy you can have i couldnt get it to run right on my truck idk why i put in a single and done but i think it was cause my carb was shit. But if your far ill ship just pay shipping and its all yours. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Banzia was right, the second would fit if I take out this plate that sits just under the points. I tuned and timed her and she is running great. Thank you very much for the offer though, someone else who may need it more should receive it. Any one care to comment on the 4 in or 3 in block question? I have never lowered anything, but I am really excited, love the look of everyones on here that is dropped. Mostly I am so excited that this is a really easy project and it will increase the look of the truck ten fold. So give me some feedback: how is the ride on your 521 after a 3 in drop, and how is the ride with a 4 in drop? I want to go to the 4, but if 3 ride is that much better I am easy to please. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I went with Bellthech 6202 3 inch 2deg blocks in back. the 2 deg is for the less stress on the carrier bearing. so make sure you put it in the correct direction. Its simple. and just turned the torsion bar out. I didnt notice a change in suspension ride myself. You might need to remove the rubber bumpo stop up front where the frame is but its just a 12 or 14mm and pull it out.(save them) or maybe cut them if you really think your going to Bottom out hard. Big Potholes in the dark yes its bad. But washington alwasy trys to fix their roads. Lower tax States I notice the roads arnt as good. if you run the stock size tires it will still have the appearing of looking low. Its when people put 50 series tires on one has to lower it even more to get that "fill in" look Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 (edited) So when people say "turn out the torsion bar" this just means to loosen the two nuts on the square bolt to the top of the threads, not actually reindex the torsion bars them selves? I know all of you senior members are tired of talking about this subject. I have gotten around to lowering the truck and just got under there to figure it out and took the bar loose, after making all of my marks of course, but realized my exhaust pipe is in the way. So I am hoping when just trying to drop her a little all i would need to do is TURN THE BAR OUT? I figured it out! once you're down under the truck enough and really look this is really easy, everyone is right this is an easy truck to lower. Edited October 25, 2013 by glorydime 1 Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Here is my newly finished garage, and a shot I took this weekend while I was lowering my 521 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Just watch he 4" blocks,if you go with a wider wheel or rim the leaf spring plate can hit the wheel,so with stock wheels you should be ok,but if you go wider with lets say a 16 or bigger wheel tall you could have issues,and i think some one correct me if i am wrong but if you crank down the torsion bars all the way you only get about 3" of drop on the front. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I tried cranking down and didn't get the drop I wanted. I went one spline on the bars and adjusted the bolt and she dropped just like I wanted. I put in three inch blocks in the back, I love how it looks. I am going to stay with the stock rims and go back to a white wall. I love the stock rims, they're my favorite. Quote Link to comment
Esteban Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Welcome to the ratsun world! 1 Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I love stock steelies Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 can anyone give me some advice for lowering her a little, I would love to put airbags in but dont have the money right now. I dont want to go too low but she is too high right now and would look great dropped a bit. Thoughts feedback or let me know problems or successes yall have had. Michael Noooooooooooooo....... Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 just use 2inch blocks in the rear and torsion in the front. Quote Link to comment
glorydime Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 That was an older post, I put three in blocks in the back and indexed the front. Quote Link to comment
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