REDnGOLD Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I was working on my rear brakes today when i noticed something out of the ordinary on my 610's rear suspension It had 2 sets of springs in d rear. Now, I've searched d web & this forum for a pix of 610 rear suspension to see if 4 springs in the rear is normal. No luck. I assumed the image above is a costume work. Would anybody know if that thing holding the spring up (yellow arrow) is welded on the shock? I just ordered a pair of GR2 for my rear. Will i need to weld that thing (per side) or will just tightening it work? Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 lol that looks like bits of chain link fence clamp someones put on your strut :rofl: kind of a rednecked halfass coilover hahahaha Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 Other than my old shocks are blown, it's interesting & it works. I found on google a pix of what i was looking for. I'll post it here for future ref. Im more interested on finding out, when I pull these out tomorrow, what the original owner used for tophats. I think i'll keep it that way til i can finally afford rear coilovers. Im still wondering if its welded on the shock Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I highly doubt it is. it would be very dangerous to your person to do so. also your new struts will come with new bushings. there are no tops hats just a bushing and washer on each side. take that shit off with the old strut, toss the springs in a parts box... and the rest in the trash. and put your suspension back together the way it should be. whoever made that had good intentions... but hows the old saying go? the road to hell is paved with good intentions.... Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 no that is not stock and not neccisary in the least the stock set up is just the shocks in the control arms and the shocks those springs were added Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 thanks Skib & Bonvo. I just purchase myself a GC coilover kits for the front. Now, I've never fab up suspension before. In my past experience, I have always used a readily available coilovers. Im planning on getting the tokico struts HP for 510 as my replacement. http://www.tokicoper...3038-front.aspx I saw this on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&NR=1&v=5PpAPbK0unU on another youtube video i saw this where he tells me to cut off the perch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhxvsG9y7_8&playnext=1&list=PL5914B7B1F77219A2&feature=results_video How did you 610 owners fab up your front suspension? & what brand of struts did you guys use? Does anybody has some pix or maybe video to share? thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Finally!!! i found this after a few hrs of googling it. For future reference & for newer Datsun 510/610 owners who know nothing about fabricating own coilovers using coilover kits (such as myself) :) http://www.z31.com/mods/coilover.shtml "YOUR OPTIONS: Front-Ground Control offers setups with or without camber/caster plates. Without camber plates the kit is $199. This is a simple, swap-in, idiot-proof kit to install, and doesn't require welding. It includes an aluminum threaded sleeve, adjustable perch, springs and an aluminum top hat. You can use the stock lower spring perch or cut the perch off and weld on a new lower perch weldment (optional) to keep it strong, light, and open up some space for adjusting and wider tires. The camber plates add $265 to the kit and use a new torrington bearing, and a solid spherical upper mount that replaces the flimsy rubber bushing. The upper "pillowball" mount substantially increases steering response but makes the ride a bit more harsh since shock jolts are transmitted directly to the chassis. Camber plates require cutting some material from the strut tower. Certain shocks (Tokico Illuminas) may need to be sent to Ground Control so they can turn down the shafts to fit through the camber plates." Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Those who elect to go GC way.... http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=806/CA=27 This kit fits Early Datsuns with stock, KYB, or Tokico struts. removal of stock spring seat optional at no extra charge Expected ride height change from 1 to 3 inches Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Baah. Trim the lower perch off strut as shown. Grind the old weld down smooth. Replace thin strut oil with 20W motorcycle fork oil to increase the firmness without paying for new inserts. Trim one coil off the stock spring to increase the spring rate. (you can remove more later in half coil increments until the desired stiffness is reached, or pay for a custom spring of the correct rate) Install split collar, lower spring perch, spring and top hat. Adjust height as required. Total cost $17 for fork oil and $30 for split collars, so under $50 for both front struts, adjustable ride height and no welding. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 i like that idea Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 So today, I hit a bump a big bump (not literally) on swapping my rear shock absorber. The bolt is just so old that it stripped when i tried to loosen it. Here's a closer look. Do i have to remove the whole spindle & arm? or is there any shop there that can remove the remaining bolt that stuck inside? Here is a pix w/ my shock attached. Of course, i will not drive it. I just put it on so i can get it towed to a shop. So far, no shop is able to remove it. I was told that i will need to remove the whole hub w/ arm. My luck.... Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 *cOrrection*: I actually snapped d bolt's head off not stripped Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Lefty loosey... righty tighty. Cut a bolt and weld some threads on the end and use a washer or two. The bolt doesn't hold the shock, just squeezes the rubber and prevents it slipping off the end. 1 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 hows the old saying go? the road to hell is paved with good intentions.... The corollary is "The road to hell is paved with good intentions, but the streets of hell are paved with Bishops." Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 The corollary is "The road to hell is paved with good intentions, but the streets of hell are paved with Bishops." I like this one. Hell certainly has a ring just for priests. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 so we got the stuck bolt taken out. She is now on its 4 wheels. However, the rear springs was cut too low making it barely drivable. Rear fenders are barely sitting on d wheels & it feels like im driving on brinks. someone on here recommended front coils for 79-86 Dodge D50 works just as well if not better. I phoned local NAPA store & its $163 for a pair. Called a local autowrecking & its $50 a piece. Does anybody have another recommendation? 510 rear coils work just as well Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 510 coils work but there just as lame as the stock 610 springs the issue your having is the fact that your bottoming out the shocks not so much the springs Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 I think that's what's happening. My KYBs are already pressed all the way to the bottom. Those shocks wont last very long ;( Bonvo, any suggestion how i can fix this? Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 buy camero shocks for the rear they are 2.75 inchs shorter if i remember right Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 For now put a 1" rubber spacer under the springs. You could cut them out of old tires. The spring will be the same but you will have an extra inch of shock to absorb bumps. The rubber spacer will help too. Hang on, the IRS has a 3.8 ratio so you won't need an inch. Looks like 1/4" will give about an inch of lift. This is probably where the guy who cut the springs screwed up. He thought cutting an inch off the spring would drop it an inch, it will be much more than that I think. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 that car looks like it has about 3 coils cut out of the rear Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 based on this pix i took when d car was up on the jack it has 5 coils left. IDK how many coils on an OEM full springs Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 You have the main spring plus a helper spring on the shock??? Just move the muffler clamp up higher on the shock. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 The helper springs wont stay up on the newer kyb shocks. i tried but it keeps coming off. i can try to put a split collars on both shocks to hold the springs. i am trying to figure out what d diameter of this kyb shocks so i can & buy the correct size split collar. another thing is idk where i can buy those split collars locally so i can return them if i bought the wrong size. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 if i do get those D50 springs, how much coils should i cut to leave me at least 2-finger gap? Quote Link to comment
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