Silky's L20B Goon Build

[Silky_Johnson]

Thursday was engine install day. No pictures were taken. Conditions were not ideal. My father-in-law and I worked from around 6:00 p.m. until 9:00 p.m. hoisting, getting the crank/clutch to line up with the transmission shaft, and bolting and torquing the motor mounts and such. With the engine in place, I saved the fun work until Saturday.

 

On Saturday, I started with a near scary moment on the clutch slave cylinder. It wouldn't compress enough for me to install it? I thought to myself, "one of the components must have been mismatched..." but I was sure that everything was compatible as far as I knew: PL510 throughout bearing and matching collar, roadster pressure plate, PL510 friction disc, 200mm 6-bolt flywheel, and a new PL510 pilot bushing. It just wasn't working. My thoughts wandered to grinding down the clutch slave push rod, but luckily no grinding had occurred. Evidently I must have pushed in the clutch when it wasn't hooked up, because that cylinder was fully pressurized with fluid. I bled it out, and that solved my problem. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. I installed a number of new components at the same time and cleaned up the engine bay a little. I'm not proud of my janky spacers with the new radiator, but I'll get to those soon enough.

 

 

This is the cleanest my hood has ever been. Hopefully it will stay that way without the nasty blowby:

 

 

 

 

You may observe in this picture that I got the PCV system hooked up on my Mikuni manifold. So far, everything is functioning as it should.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

YOUR THE MAN NOW.!!!!!!!!!! looks good

 

 

Im a has been

[Silky_Johnson]

I think my coolant seeping from the freeze plug has stopped. If not, should I just tap it in a little further?

 

On my first test drive, I was blown away by the power. Then, about 20 minutes into the drive, it was like I wasn't firing on all cylinders. My mind went immediately into panic mode, but I stayed cool and checked things out on the road. Sure enough, unplugging the spark plug wires one by one, they all made a difference accept for spark plug No. 2. I made it home, took out No. 2 plug, and it was completely fowled -- black as night. I went out and bought 4 new plugs, and went for a test drive, same thing happened. Trying to keep my cool, and trying to keep my wife from worrying about how depressed I would be if I had major problems, I checked the carbs for any irregularities. Sure enough, the jet blocks had backed themselves out. On No. 2, it had almost completely unscrewed itself. So, after tightening things back down, bingo bango bongo, everyhing is good.

 

The result is that, A. I have no more pinging weird engine sounds, B. I have no more morning smoke, and C. the difference in power is night and day. Top end is still awesome, but now I can just put my foot down and the engine responds, whether I'm on a hill, in low RPM territory, or what have you. This thing is a hoot to drive!

 

For all of those that wanted to hear the Flowmaster with the 2.25 pipe and stock manifold, I'm going to try posting a video. We'll see if this works. It is a garbage video, but you get the idea.

 

 

No making fun of my jeans or the interior of my car. I guess you just click on the picture and it'll take you to photobucket where you can watch the video.

[Silky_Johnson]

By the way, Hainz, I'll take some more pictures of the radiator install. I know you where interested in the clearance by the alternator. I have lots-o-clearance, but I'm also using a different bracket for putting tension on the belt, and I got a slightly shorter belt to make things fit right.

 

And I have a new question. My Mikunis are still reading 3-5-5-5 for vacuum on each venturi starting with No. 1. What should I be looking for? I have already checked the butterfly valves and they haven't been tweaked. Everything should be identical, but I guess I have a vacuum leak somewhere? Where should I look? I think this will tone down my shaky motor once I get the carbs completely synced...

[banzai510(hainz)]

When I sync my carbs(im not a expert)

I just go from #2 and #3 and see that the ball goes up the same amount.

 

I assume the other barrel is the same UNLESS soembody torqed on them to cause the shaft to bend!!!!!!

 

I usually run my motor at 12-15 with sidedrafts.

 

also you might want to take the pertronix wires and my them like a twisted pair and then tape them together(wrap) and not tie them up to the Coil wire. It might induce soem voltage or current or noise ,whatever. I usually route it from the coil to /near the head lite bucket and there is a metal cable loop holder wrap it under that. or route thru the stock rad hole then to the distributor. also the temp wire.

 

 

I also see that yelow wire going across the firewall. I would route that inside to the glove box area under. Whats that for.?? Or fix what you think is wrong with the org wire.

 

 

I see you hooked up the ports to use the PVC valve to the crank case. Your the first I think I seen a photo of this. Well hopefuly you have a PVC valve in line with this.

 

 

Radiator looks good( Even if its made in China it looks good. Might be the best option out there now for us anyway. But I think I got 3 Rads at home already but I do like the BLING of it

[Silky_Johnson]

When I sync my carbs(im not a expert)

I just go from #2 and #3 and see that the ball goes up the same amount.

 

I assume the other barrel is the same UNLESS soembody torqed on them to cause the shaft to bend!!!!!!

 

I usually run my motor at 12-15 with sidedrafts.

 

also you might want to take the pertronix wires and my them like a twisted pair and then tape them together(wrap) and not tie them up to the Coil wire. It might induce soem voltage or current or noise ,whatever. I usually route it from the coil to /near the head lite bucket and there is a metal cable loop holder wrap it under that. or route thru the stock rad hole then to the distributor. also the temp wire.

 

 

I also see that yelow wire going across the firewall. I would route that inside to the glove box area under. Whats that for.?? Or fix what you think is wrong with the org wire.

 

 

I see you hooked up the ports to use the PVC valve to the crank case. Your the first I think I seen a photo of this. Well hopefuly you have a PVC valve in line with this.

 

 

Radiator looks good( Even if its made in China it looks good. Might be the best option out there now for us anyway. But I think I got 3 Rads at home already but I do like the BLING of it

 

I'm not using the Edelbrock Uni-Syn thing to measure flow to the carbs, so the numbers must be different? I've got one of these in my glove box: http://www.carburetion.com/weber/webermisc.asp

 

I would try and forget about it, but I think I can hear that it's still not syncing up right, so that the idle isn't as even as it could be, and the No. 1 cylinder mains don't kick in at the same time as the others. I think... It's driving fine, but I'd like to get it perfectly synced up. Maybe I should try new carb insulators? Is it possible that the old one might not be sealing up? Now that I'm thinking of it, I suppose I could swap out the insulators and see if flow goes down on another cylinder...

 

Good word on the Pertronix wires. That'll be on my list of things to do. Someday soon I want to make all of the wiring at least look like someone tried.

 

I agree on the yellow wire. It is unnecessarily long and and eyesore. It's hooked up the the volt meter. The PO installed it. It runs from the volt meter to the starter. Should I attach it to something else? Suggestions? Perhaps I should piggyback it onto a wire in the ignition somehow?

 

Yes, the is a PCV in there, along with an adapter to make it work. I could find a British pipe thread fitting with a hose fitting on the end.

 

My old radiator was leaking, and it was just barely keeping up with surges in temperature. The new one is giving me peace of mind as well as making the engine bay look blingy. Now all I need is a polished or powder-coated valve cover.

[banzai510(hainz)]

The PO installed it. It runs from the volt meter to the starter. ????????????

 

so your reading 12volts all the time? Always ON???????? draining the battery????????

 

If thats true one could have taking it off the Cig lighter circut. that has 12 all the time also.

 

could just get rid of that volt meter and get this(doesnt drain the battery either)

http://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor

 

I also went back to my stock 510 oil sender light hook up. I dont have a oil burner so no ned to ck oil every tank fill up.

oil pressure gauge is nice to see but I was alwasy scared of the oil lines breaking which 2 have done. If I go back Ill get the remote wire set(transducer) to a gauge. to be on safe side of no oil lost

 

I piggy backed my VDO 12volt meter to my Radio wire which is Key switcable.I dont have a radio as it was stolen twice so I dont have one now. a Meter wont take alot of current so no big deal. Ther emight be another 12v wire under there for something.

 

Later 510s have a 12volt air cond wire wraped up under the fuse box that one can run a electric fuel pump or what ever or hook up a volt meter to have a 12v switchable.

[jrock4224]

ok ok ok ok ... now u got two things i am jealous of... a cute wife with a dog and a running goon... man that looks awesome and sounds even better.....still a little loud flowmaster only but still... i like the chrome interior.. and anybody that knows tristin knows your pants look great if u seen his...ps my wifes beautiful ... its our dogs that are annoying at times

[Tristin]

No making fun of my jeans or the interior of my car.

and anybody that knows tristin knows your pants look great if u seen his...ps my wifes beautiful ... its our dogs that are annoying at times

 

Psh... you have so much room in those pants, its like youre swimming in them :rofl: They are way too loose for my liking, but thats just me. But to really be on topic... Glad to see you made something of this. Your project finished up a lot quicker than I would have been able to complete it if I bought it instead of you. I have a plan for something else though ^_^ Engine looks and sounds great!

[Rustina 510]

Great job on the build dude, you made it look easy

[jrock4224]

trisitn makes good point... u embarass us weaker datsuners as u finish project way to fast for us.....slo down show off.....ps my new fav color goon... even more than cactus green, like i got...jeans make u look like your smugglin oranges and cucumbers.....wuts up wit dat...

[Silky_Johnson]

jrock, you crack me up. I appreciate the compliments to my wife. I think you were requesting oics earlier, but A. she wouldn't like it, and B. we Ratsuners are all creepers anyway. :rofl: I'm just glad I swept in like a :ninja: before any other creepers got her. I thought it was pretty funny too when our dog nearly locked us out of the truck! Thanks for your help on that.

 

Hainz, I do have a slow parasitic drain. Very slow, but it sounds like the volt meter may be causing the problem? If there's a chance that it is causing the drainage issue, I'm just going to rip it out. Ultimately, it just let's me know if I won't be able to start the car. I can get the same information from turning the key over, and in both cases there's nothing I can really do about it accept carry around jumper cables.

[Silky_Johnson]

Great job on the build dude, you made it look easy

 

Thanks Rusty. But here's the thing! Having done all of the research and working methodically, it is easy! I've never done this kind of stuff before, but it's not rocket science, and these engines are super simple. Would my project have been worse if I had stripped threads and broken bolts? Absolutely, but that's what a torque wrench is for. I still got screwed while using a torque wrench a couple of times, but they were on fairly insignificant bolts. I did strip out the threads on one of the valve cover holes. That sucked. I tried the helicoil thing, but I must not have had the right tap, because it didn't work. Now I'm tapped out to use an M8 x 1 (fine thread) bolt. I'm not real happy about that, but it is what it is...

 

'Nuff said. I was pretty scared going into it, but it turned out to be a lot of fun -- way easier than I expected.

[Eagle_Adam]

job well done!!! i will be referencing this thread when i build up my L20!

[banzai510(hainz)]

if the volt meter arm is moving to 12 voolts ,thats a drain.

 

1st 56 secs of vid show hot o find drain. Hook up test light then disconnect the volt meter, or pop fuses in fuse box to isolate which circut is shorted to ground

[Silky_Johnson]

...jeans make u look like your smugglin oranges and cucumbers.....wuts up wit dat...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9tAQZInm5Q

[Silky_Johnson]

if the volt meter arm is moving to 12 voolts ,thats a drain.

 

1st 56 secs of vid show hot o find drain. Hook up test light then disconnect the volt meter, or pop fuses in fuse box to isolate which circut is shorted to ground

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B__DqK90IIc&playnext=1&list=PLB703B546D833C37B&feature=results_main

 

HAHAHA! REV UP YOUR ENGINES!

 

Good info though... I'll definitely be doing this next weekend.

[banzai510(hainz)]

battery be dead by then

[Silky_Johnson]

battery be dead by then

 

Naw... its a slower drain than that. I drive it every day, so it's not an issue. I can even leave it for 3 or 4 days and it'll start up without a boost. It died on me after leaving it for a couple weeks a couple of times. If I know I'll be gone for a while, I just disconnect the negative battery cable.

[Rustina 510]

job well done!!! i will be referencing this thread when i build up my L20!

Build th Ka instead

[Eagle_Adam]

Build th Ka instead

 

the L20 is already started ;) one thing at a time

[jrock4224]

cucumbers are the bumpy ones right.....yer right though dont post pics of the misses.....pedo bears will congregate

[Silky_Johnson]

Okay, my freeze plugs are all oozing just a little bit. Some more than others. All in all, I think I'm losing 6-8 drops of coolant on a 10 mile drive. I could probably drive it like this indefinitely, but do I want to? No.

 

Any ideas? Anyone ever replace freeze plugs with the engine in the car? It was a real bear-cat getting the new guys hammered in. I can only imagine what it will be like trying to tap them without nailing the fender on the backstroke.

[Laecaon]

That hard to get them in? I just used one my bigger sockets (22mm?) and placed it in. Hammered in smoothly.

 

Try heavier hammer and you wont need as much swing.

 

I also tried to do as much research as possible about the brass vs steel debate. I came up with, if you actually run antifreeze, and not just water, the steel wont rust. And if you are super duper worried, drop an old penny into your radiator. So I am now running steel, as that is what the parts store had.

 

still odd that they are weeping.

[Silky_Johnson]

Did you use a sealant on your plugs?