Locsteros22 Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 How would I drop the rear end of my 620 because I recently reindexed and changed out the shocks but It only lowered the front haha looks weird right now Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 search, my bro. use drop blocks for the initial drop which will get u 2-3" Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 I bought Belltech blocks. they come in 1 2 3 inch. really depends on how much you dropped the front but if you reindexed I assume you want the 3 inch. partnumber 6202 is the 3in with a 2 deg angle to relieve the carrier bearing so when to low it dont wear it out. youll put the smaller side foward (angle down) This fitted perfectly on my 521 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 There are TWO popular options on lowering a 620. One is to use a lowering block between the spring saddle and the leaf that you can buy at Autozone. (Look for lowering blocks) Second is to find a set of leaf springs from an 80's 720 4x4 pickup. They have less of a spring arch and drop you about 1-2 inches. Quote Link to comment
Locsteros22 Posted August 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 Ok I read up on thr blocks before just thought there would be another way...thanks much!! Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 4 inch blocks and remove leaf springs pretty much all of them, Thats Wat i did atleast. Highly recommended you notch the frame lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Never remove springs. The most obvious reason is it weakens the spring rate and will bounce further and bottom out easier ... the last thing you need with a lowered vehicle. Next, the spring provides lateral support preventing the body moving sideways on turns. Removing springs lessens this support. Instead, have the spring's arch removed at a shop. 720 4x4 springs fit are flatter and stiffer too! Quote Link to comment
Phixius Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 I thought the 720 leafs are softer? they have less arch and less leafs... Ive got some comparison pics of the 720 4x4 vs stock 521 leaf packs... and how much it lowers it. this is with 3" blocks and stock leafs. and 3" blocks with 720 leafs. Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Ye Never remove springs. The most obvious reason is it weakens the spring rate and will bounce further and bottom out easier ... the last thing you need with a lowered vehicle. Next, the spring provides lateral support preventing the body moving sideways on turns. Removing springs lessens this support. Instead, have the spring's arch removed at a shop. 720 4x4 springs fit are flatter and stiffer too! Yes i do no this and i also installed air bags for the up and down movement ,we will see how it rides when im through with if hopefully this weekend Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 You know this? but recommend others do it? Texas .... loose one point. 4 inch blocks and remove leaf springs pretty much all of them, Thats Wat i did atleast. Highly recommended you notch the frame lol Quote Link to comment
Lee R Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Ye Yes i do no this and i also installed air bags for the up and down movement ,we will see how it rides when im through with if hopefully this weekend pics or it didn't happen.... :poke: Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Hey as long as he puts bags or air shocks something one that it will work just fine am i right? Its good enough for me its only a 150 dollar truck but yea i have a picture its not done yet but ill put it on here Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 On the last picture with the bed when its laying on there right it tucks more wheel, and plus the notch and the punkin are hitting the bed so i got the cut it all up Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Will bags stop lateral movement??? Maybe a panhard bar? Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Yea i had thought of that when u said it if it needs one ill put one on there, ill see how it rides first Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted September 8, 2012 Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 eeeehhh... monoleaf? while it looks like itll work, the backend of that thing is gonna be all over the place.. all that rotational force on the leaf right in front of the axle is going to give you weird pinion issues.. no way to get at least a 2 link goin? Quote Link to comment
travis06lly Posted September 8, 2012 Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 Yea ive been thinking about doing something, hopefully Sunday it will be done enough to drive it around a little to see how it is. Im gunna cruise it with no bed just in case i need to add something like that Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 I bought Belltech blocks. they come in 1 2 3 inch. really depends on how much you dropped the front but if you reindexed I assume you want the 3 inch. partnumber 6202 is the 3in with a 2 deg angle to relieve the carrier bearing so when to low it dont wear it out. youll put the smaller side foward (angle down) This fitted perfectly on my 521 Banzai (or anyone in the know), First off, I apologize for bumping a pretty old thread, but is it better to get the blocks with the 2 degree angle for a 620 also? Or is it just better in general for anyone lowering a vehicle with blocks to get a set with the 2 degree angle? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 No angle is best. If you get 2° angle blocks, be sure to drop the gearbox mount & cairrier mount down a little to match the 2° angle. Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 No angle is best. If you get 2° angle blocks, be sure to drop the gearbox mount & cairrier mount down a little to match the 2° angle. ggzilla, If I don't have any plans (or knowledge) of dropping the gearbox mount & carrier, would I be better off sticking with just a non-angled block? The reason I ask is that Banzai510(hainz) says to go with the angled, but you're saying no angle is best. I only plan on dropping the rear and then figuring out how to adjust the front to match (I've seen a lot of people commenting about adjusting the torsion bars - not familiar with these, but I'm sure it probably isn't too difficult to figure out). Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Use an angle gauge. Fit spacers on the gearbox mount, and space the carrier bearing down even more than that. Make sure the angle matches the pinion angle This is "best" for wear. If you don't want to do that, use non-angled blocks. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 my blocks were theBelltech 6202 3inch 2deg. I just installed them and everthing is OK. If you want lower one needs to raise the center carier bearing up a little . Some use washers or a hollow square tube. Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 my blocks were theBelltech 6202 3inch 2deg. I just installed them and everthing is OK. If you want lower one needs to raise the center carier bearing up a little . Some use washers or a hollow square tube. Banzai510(hainz) How long have you been running with only putting in the 6202 blocks? Did you make any other adjustments anywhere? I'm a little confused with the second part of your reply. Are you saying that if you want to go lower than a 3 inch drop then you need to raise the center carrier bearing up by using washers or a hollow square tube? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Two degrees is arbitrary at best. What works on one vehicle may not on another. The last two U joint angles must be the same or as close as possible. Buy or borrow a drive line angle finder... Measure the two angles and shim the lowering block at the front to move the differential up at the front and at the back to tilt it down. I did this and found a 1/8" shim worked on my wagon and what a difference. Two degrees might be close and will feel better but perfect can only be done by measurement. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.