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Spawn

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About Spawn

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Malta, NY, United States
  • Cars
    1972 620 SB, 1977 620 LB, 1986 Merkur XR4Ti & more!
  • Interests
    Video gaming, motorsports and movies

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  1. Thanks Redeye! It definitely wouldn't be possible without everyone's input! As soon as I've got everything sorted out I will be posting a list of everything I used/ordered to ensure that others will have an easy time converting to LED if they want.
  2. That worked perfectly! They sounds just like what I expected, so Amazon it is. You said you had to find a good ground for both of these, correct? Next thing to figure out is how come your outer lights flash but mine don't. Could it be year related? Mine's a 1977 long bed model, so maybe it was wired differently, or one of the previous owners modified it incorrectly?
  3. The video worked but the sound wasn't there... Oh, now I see your edit of the post. I did find the other flasher and then tested the LED unit in the other flasher position and it let's the 4 way flashers function. I don't think that I like not having an audible clicking for the flashers. I would really like to hear what the flasher unit you purchased from Amazon sounds like. That would let me determine if I want to return the unit I have and get ones like yours or just get a second unit like mine. Edit: one thing I found interesting is that when you have the flashers on, your order most light and the dual unit beside it both flash. For mine only the second bulb over flashes. The outer most unit only lights up when I turn on the parking lights. 🤔
  4. I'll have to have a closer look. It was a bit of a rat's nest of wires under there, but with the instrument cluster out, perhaps I can get a better view of any additional flasher unit hiding under there. The one I've been dealing with was simply hanging freely down on the right hand side of the steering column, just to the side of the center of the truck. Would you be able to send a copy of the wiring diagram that you used to look it up with? I don't have one so it would be nice to see for sure.
  5. I've only noticed the one flasher relay. You're saying there's a second under the dash? Is it close to where the first relay is located? I apparently spoke a little too soon about the flasher working. It works just fine when you don't have the park lights on, but when I left work to go home in the morning, it was dark out, so I had to have the lights on and when I was signaling, the flasher simply stayed on solid. Spoke with SBL, and they said that I would probably have to install load resistors on each corner in order for them to possibly work. FrankRizzo, I'm still curious to know if your 4 way flashers work or not, and also, can you confirm that the flasher you have actually works with the parking lights off or on? Also, does it make that infamous turn signal clicking sound, or is it silent like the ones I've tried so far? Thanks for shipping out the sidemarkers, the weather has been great yesterday and today, so a lot of our snow and ice is melting, but it's supposed to cool down again starting this weekend.
  6. Ok, well I managed to get in touch with superbrightleds.com and told them that the flasher that they had recommended to me based off of the picture of my OEM unit was not causing the turn signals to flash, but to simply stay on solid. The technician looked and found that there was another 2 pin flasher that was actually the reverse of the unit they initially recommended. I ordered it and it arrived today. Plugged it in and voila! I have flashing turn signal indicators now! The only downside is that when I pull the hazard lights button, they just come on but don't flash, along with the unsatisfying fact that there is no audible turn signal clicking (minor, but hard to get used to right now). Thankfully I don't need the 4-way flashers too often, but I'm not sure if that is something that they have to check for the yearly state inspection. FrankRizzo, for the flasher you got from Amazon, do you know if it also functions for your hazard lights? I really want to make sure that I'm not giving New York State any reason to deny the operation of the truck on their roads for any reason if I can! I've got some time before it's due for the next yearly inspection, but I'd like to get it figured out well before crunch time.
  7. Datzenmike, do you happen to have a specific flasher model number that I can search for or know what vehicle they come from? I purchased the flasher that superbrightleds.com had said would work for the 620 (it's a smaller red 2 pin flasher unit - basically a shrunk down version of what the 620 currently has), but unfortunately it doesn't cause the bulbs to flash at all. For kicks and giggles I put the old big red flasher unit back in (that was working with the incandescent bulbs) and it behaves the same way. It doesn't matter which flasher unit I use but the signal lights just stay on. So after having changed over the fronts and rears completely (still have to sort out the side markers), I now have to manually toggle the turn signal indicator arm on and off to simulate the flashing while driving. This should pose for an interesting drive home in the morning after work!
  8. FrankRizzo, you would be a savior if you can find them! I haven't checked all 4 markers, but I know that I need at least one amber front and one red rear assembly. If you want, you can send me a PM once you track them down early next week.
  9. Ok, I have seen people in several threads talk about converting not only their interior bulbs over to LED but also doing all of the exterior bulbs. Unfortunately, I have yet to actually see one done, so I decided to give it a go and swap them all over (minus the headlights of course). It took a bit of time to try and make sure I sourced the right bulbs, but I believe I have all of the correct bulbs, as I was able to change over one full side of the truck to all LED bulbs. Regretfully, I ran into a small issue when doing the swap. I found that out of my four side marker lights, one of the rears was badly rusted out, and one of the fronts had a small amount of water pooled up inside. I tried to remove the bulb from the rusted out rear assembly, but the bulb separated from the base, and my efforts to remove the base ended up ruining it. As for the front, I was able to remove the old bulb, dry up the moisture and install the LED. After swapping over it tested fine (nice bright amber light), however, a few days later I noticed that the light was barely illuminating, so I went to pull the LED bulb to check it, and I cannot remove it. It just doesn't seem to want to move at all, so I'm waiting for it to warm up a bit later this week/weekend, and then try using some WD-40 or PB Blaster to see if that may lubricate it enough to be able to remove it, and NO, I will not be turning the lights on while there is any spray lubricant in there, as I don't know how electrically conductive it is and don't want to find out. Having gone through all of this, I am hoping that someone knows where I could source a set of side marker light assemblies (fronts and rears) so that I can simply replace them and have properly functioning side markers (I need to have them repaired/replaced before the truck has to go through NY State safety inspection, or it's automatically going to fail and will not be able to be registered). Thanks in advance to those who've read through this far, and more so for anyone who is able to help me source a replacement set!!
  10. Well, on my continuing quest to get the gauge cluster converted over to LED bulbs, I made up this image of the rear of the cluster along with each of the bulbs that were removed. I have marked up where each of the bulbs come from to make it easier for others in the future. Once I've gotten the replacement LED bulbs figured out, I will edit the image with the appropriate information. One thing that does have me a little confused/stumped is that for the images that I have seen of other gauge clusters is that I have an additional box or module of some sort on the rear of the speedometer, just to the side of where the cable gets fastened onto the speedometer. Also, I have two wires with bullet style connectors that I didn't unplug when removing the gauge cluster, one blue and one green. I've looked into the cavity where the cluster gets installed in the dash, but I only see a blue wire with yellow stripe on it. I'm not sure if this should be where the blue wire plugs in or not, and for the green wire I haven't found a male opposite for this to tie in to. Due to the fact that I didn't have to unplug either of these wires when removing the cluster, I'm not even sure if either of these wires should be plugged into anything at all! The only thing that I can think the box/module might be for is to reduce oscillations in the speedometer gauge needle. If anybody happens to know what the module is for, I would love to know, as it seems to me that without having the green wire from the module plugged in I don't think that the module is getting a ground (as green is typically used for indicating grounds in wiring). As for the blue wire, I can't tell exactly where it goes to, as it's just coming out of a grommet hole on the top of the gauge cluster in between the two gauges.
  11. Well, I managed to get the instrument cluster out of the truck... in pieces. To be fair, it was already cracked in a few spots, and was fairly brittle. There was only one screw holding the bezel up just above the tachometer blankoff (but it didn't seem to be holding on to anything as there is no shoulder for the screw to hold against the plastic), and there was the screw holding the bottom of the gauges to the dash frame. Other than that, the only thing was the wiper washer switch (which came off rather easily after datzenmike provided the information on how to remove the knob - Thanks datzenmike!) and the lighter socket (which I did not figure out was simply a casing screwed on around the socket itself). Luckily, due to the damage that the instrument bezel had when I got the truck, I had already managed to get a spare bezel (a little lighter in color, but in much better shape), so I cleaned it up and installed the components in it. Just need to get the LED bulbs now!
  12. So it's basically like one of the push and lock style bulbs? What about for the silver ring with the notches in it? Any tips or hints on how best to get those removed without wrecking anything?
  13. Ok, well, either nobody is clicking the picture link to get to the post and comment there, or nobody has the information. So I'm gonna do my best to try and remove the instrument cluster, but my only concern is with regards to the Wiper Washer switch. I'm guessing that the knob for the switch pulls off like most other friction fit style knobs, but I'm unsure about the silver ring that rests against the cluster plastic. It has a groove on each side of the ring, so I'm thinking that you have to use a special tool to remove it (or perhaps a pair of needle nose pliers opened just wide enough will allow me to place the tips of the pliers into each groove and then I can just unscrew it like a regular screw)? Can anyone who has experience removing the Wiper Washer switch or the Light switch (as I believe it is the same sort of fastening mechanism for it) please let me know exactly how to remove it without wrecking the ring, cluster or switch itself? Judging from the picture below it seems like the silver ring just screws on over the shaft to hold each of the switches in place, but the ones on my 620 seem to be extremely tight.
  14. I'm posting this link here, as I don't know if anybody really gets notifications for changes in the How-To section of the Forums. If an admin or moderator deems that this should not be here, please feel free to remove it.
  15. I know that there are several people who have gone through the process of changing out all of their bulbs for the LED style, but I am a bit confused when I go through Zeusimo's How-To, as items 5 & 5b (Idiot Lights) describe Wedge Base bulbs, but the link provided is for BA9's. I don't have the opportunity to remove the gauge cluster just yet to visually confirm the type of bulb, as it is my daily driver. Can anyone who has performed this swap confirm if the bulbs are in fact Wedge Base bulbs or BA9's (I'm guessing Wedge Base due to the fact that the Idiot Gauge bulb item 4 is a Wedge Base but want to confirm)? Additionally, the How-To says that you only need 1 green bulb for item 2 (Turn Signal Lights), but I want to confirm if you only need the 1 because it does both the left turn indicator and the right indicator, or if you actually need 2 separate bulbs (one for left and one for right)? Along with the Turn Signal Lights, I am wondering if the Light and Wipe/Wash Illumination is similar in that you actually need 2 separate bulbs rather than the 1 bulb that the How-To indicates.
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