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Spawn

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About Spawn

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Malta, NY, United States
  • Cars
    1972 620 SB, 1977 620 LB, 1986 Merkur XR4Ti & more!
  • Interests
    Video gaming, motorsports and movies

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  1. datzenmike, Redeye & FrankRizzo, thank you very much for the details and information. This is exactly what I was needing/looking for. I wasn't aware that the rears needed to be adjusted every 3-6 months, so I will definitely be trying this first, as the brakes hold pressure once they've been pumped 2-4 times while driving, but lose the feel and have to be redone each time. This makes me think that the rear pads are just too far away from the drums and when pressing the pedal the fluid is pushing the drums out as much as it can, causing the mushy feeling until it starts to either grab slightly or reach the point where the fronts are doing all the work. If adjusting doesn't work, then I'm going to probably swap out the master cylinder with the ZX unit, and then change the rear residual valve to ensure the rear drums aren't mushy. I'm also hoping that if adjusting the rears works that it will also return some functionality to the emergency/parking brake. If not, then I may end up calling on your expertise again to try and get it functioning again as I've never been a huge fan of leaving the transmission in gear when parking, but that's the only way I can keep it from rolling when parked on an incline anywhere I go.
  2. Redeye, So if you have discs up front and drums on the rear, the residual valves will be different for each? If I manage to get one of the 1979 280ZX Master Cylinders from RockAuto, then I would just have to ensure that I swap out the residual valves from my current setup to the new one to have it work properly for my setup?
  3. Redeye, what and where is the residual valve that you are referring to? As I read through your post a few more times, I'm thinking that this is something directly on the master cylinder? I'm just wanting to upgrade the master cylinder (if it needs it, which will probably be determined if I am able to adjust the rear drums at all), and I was thinking that RockAuto would probably be the best spot to locate one. So I want to make sure that if I do go that route that I am getting one that will simply bolt right on without needing any adapters or spacers, etc.
  4. datzenmike, so was I correct in how to adjust the rear drum brake cylinders, by pulling the rubber access plug off the rear of the plate and then reaching in with a screwdriver to adjust the notched wheel so that when you try spinning the wheel & tire, as it's off the ground, you feel dragging? As for the emergency brake, I know that my friend had tried adjusting it when we put in new shocks, but he wasn't able to get it to adjust. The kit that I got off of ebay is only the rear half of the whole setup, so I'm hoping that is the portion that is unable to be adjusted any further (cable stretch over time?). I have a feeling, however, that I will have to remove the drums from the rears in order to detach the old emergency brake cable and attach the new emergency brake cable, correct? I don't have front drums anymore, so I don't have to worry about forgetting them. 😎 As for the original master cylinder question, does the 15/16" 1979-1982 Z master cylinder directly swap out for any year of 620?
  5. Sorry to bring this up so many months later, but I believe that I'm in need of upgrading my master cylinder due to the fact that I don't really have much initial pedal. When I first press it, it basically goes down to the base of its travel, and then if I let it out about half way and press again a couple more times it tends to build up some pressure and holds fairly well. Once I get rolling again, I have to go through the same process even if it's only about a block of driving. Currently I don't think that the rear drums are biting at all, as it feels as though all of the braking is coming from the fronts only, and the emergency brake doesn't hold at all when I pull it out. I did get an emergency brake cable kit that I ordered from ebay, but it's only for the rear half of the whole setup. I know when we did the engine swap and various upgrades about a year ago the parking brake cable was not the best as it wasn't really grabbing until it was a few notches from being all the way out. I've read somewhere in the forums that for the rear drums they need to be adjusted often, but I thought that they were self adjusting cylinders. If not, then how often should they be adjusted? I'm guessing that the adjustment is simply moving the notched wheel adjustment ring on the rear cylinders until you start feeling resistance when trying to rotate the wheel as it's raised off of the ground? So will this 15/16" 1979-1982 Z master cylinder work for any year of 620, or does it only apply to the same years? I've got a 1977 620 so I'm hoping that the Z master cylinder will work for all years of 620. In addition, I've got Beebani's front disc conversion but still having rear drums I'm not sure if just swapping to the Z master cylinder will be sufficient or overkill. I do have a rear disc conversion kit somewhere stashed away to install, so I'm thinking that it should be alright to run with.
  6. Thanks Redeye! It definitely wouldn't be possible without everyone's input! As soon as I've got everything sorted out I will be posting a list of everything I used/ordered to ensure that others will have an easy time converting to LED if they want.
  7. That worked perfectly! They sounds just like what I expected, so Amazon it is. You said you had to find a good ground for both of these, correct? Next thing to figure out is how come your outer lights flash but mine don't. Could it be year related? Mine's a 1977 long bed model, so maybe it was wired differently, or one of the previous owners modified it incorrectly?
  8. The video worked but the sound wasn't there... Oh, now I see your edit of the post. I did find the other flasher and then tested the LED unit in the other flasher position and it let's the 4 way flashers function. I don't think that I like not having an audible clicking for the flashers. I would really like to hear what the flasher unit you purchased from Amazon sounds like. That would let me determine if I want to return the unit I have and get ones like yours or just get a second unit like mine. Edit: one thing I found interesting is that when you have the flashers on, your order most light and the dual unit beside it both flash. For mine only the second bulb over flashes. The outer most unit only lights up when I turn on the parking lights. 🤔
  9. I'll have to have a closer look. It was a bit of a rat's nest of wires under there, but with the instrument cluster out, perhaps I can get a better view of any additional flasher unit hiding under there. The one I've been dealing with was simply hanging freely down on the right hand side of the steering column, just to the side of the center of the truck. Would you be able to send a copy of the wiring diagram that you used to look it up with? I don't have one so it would be nice to see for sure.
  10. I've only noticed the one flasher relay. You're saying there's a second under the dash? Is it close to where the first relay is located? I apparently spoke a little too soon about the flasher working. It works just fine when you don't have the park lights on, but when I left work to go home in the morning, it was dark out, so I had to have the lights on and when I was signaling, the flasher simply stayed on solid. Spoke with SBL, and they said that I would probably have to install load resistors on each corner in order for them to possibly work. FrankRizzo, I'm still curious to know if your 4 way flashers work or not, and also, can you confirm that the flasher you have actually works with the parking lights off or on? Also, does it make that infamous turn signal clicking sound, or is it silent like the ones I've tried so far? Thanks for shipping out the sidemarkers, the weather has been great yesterday and today, so a lot of our snow and ice is melting, but it's supposed to cool down again starting this weekend.
  11. Ok, well I managed to get in touch with superbrightleds.com and told them that the flasher that they had recommended to me based off of the picture of my OEM unit was not causing the turn signals to flash, but to simply stay on solid. The technician looked and found that there was another 2 pin flasher that was actually the reverse of the unit they initially recommended. I ordered it and it arrived today. Plugged it in and voila! I have flashing turn signal indicators now! The only downside is that when I pull the hazard lights button, they just come on but don't flash, along with the unsatisfying fact that there is no audible turn signal clicking (minor, but hard to get used to right now). Thankfully I don't need the 4-way flashers too often, but I'm not sure if that is something that they have to check for the yearly state inspection. FrankRizzo, for the flasher you got from Amazon, do you know if it also functions for your hazard lights? I really want to make sure that I'm not giving New York State any reason to deny the operation of the truck on their roads for any reason if I can! I've got some time before it's due for the next yearly inspection, but I'd like to get it figured out well before crunch time.
  12. Datzenmike, do you happen to have a specific flasher model number that I can search for or know what vehicle they come from? I purchased the flasher that superbrightleds.com had said would work for the 620 (it's a smaller red 2 pin flasher unit - basically a shrunk down version of what the 620 currently has), but unfortunately it doesn't cause the bulbs to flash at all. For kicks and giggles I put the old big red flasher unit back in (that was working with the incandescent bulbs) and it behaves the same way. It doesn't matter which flasher unit I use but the signal lights just stay on. So after having changed over the fronts and rears completely (still have to sort out the side markers), I now have to manually toggle the turn signal indicator arm on and off to simulate the flashing while driving. This should pose for an interesting drive home in the morning after work!
  13. FrankRizzo, you would be a savior if you can find them! I haven't checked all 4 markers, but I know that I need at least one amber front and one red rear assembly. If you want, you can send me a PM once you track them down early next week.
  14. Ok, I have seen people in several threads talk about converting not only their interior bulbs over to LED but also doing all of the exterior bulbs. Unfortunately, I have yet to actually see one done, so I decided to give it a go and swap them all over (minus the headlights of course). It took a bit of time to try and make sure I sourced the right bulbs, but I believe I have all of the correct bulbs, as I was able to change over one full side of the truck to all LED bulbs. Regretfully, I ran into a small issue when doing the swap. I found that out of my four side marker lights, one of the rears was badly rusted out, and one of the fronts had a small amount of water pooled up inside. I tried to remove the bulb from the rusted out rear assembly, but the bulb separated from the base, and my efforts to remove the base ended up ruining it. As for the front, I was able to remove the old bulb, dry up the moisture and install the LED. After swapping over it tested fine (nice bright amber light), however, a few days later I noticed that the light was barely illuminating, so I went to pull the LED bulb to check it, and I cannot remove it. It just doesn't seem to want to move at all, so I'm waiting for it to warm up a bit later this week/weekend, and then try using some WD-40 or PB Blaster to see if that may lubricate it enough to be able to remove it, and NO, I will not be turning the lights on while there is any spray lubricant in there, as I don't know how electrically conductive it is and don't want to find out. Having gone through all of this, I am hoping that someone knows where I could source a set of side marker light assemblies (fronts and rears) so that I can simply replace them and have properly functioning side markers (I need to have them repaired/replaced before the truck has to go through NY State safety inspection, or it's automatically going to fail and will not be able to be registered). Thanks in advance to those who've read through this far, and more so for anyone who is able to help me source a replacement set!!
  15. Well, on my continuing quest to get the gauge cluster converted over to LED bulbs, I made up this image of the rear of the cluster along with each of the bulbs that were removed. I have marked up where each of the bulbs come from to make it easier for others in the future. Once I've gotten the replacement LED bulbs figured out, I will edit the image with the appropriate information. One thing that does have me a little confused/stumped is that for the images that I have seen of other gauge clusters is that I have an additional box or module of some sort on the rear of the speedometer, just to the side of where the cable gets fastened onto the speedometer. Also, I have two wires with bullet style connectors that I didn't unplug when removing the gauge cluster, one blue and one green. I've looked into the cavity where the cluster gets installed in the dash, but I only see a blue wire with yellow stripe on it. I'm not sure if this should be where the blue wire plugs in or not, and for the green wire I haven't found a male opposite for this to tie in to. Due to the fact that I didn't have to unplug either of these wires when removing the cluster, I'm not even sure if either of these wires should be plugged into anything at all! The only thing that I can think the box/module might be for is to reduce oscillations in the speedometer gauge needle. If anybody happens to know what the module is for, I would love to know, as it seems to me that without having the green wire from the module plugged in I don't think that the module is getting a ground (as green is typically used for indicating grounds in wiring). As for the blue wire, I can't tell exactly where it goes to, as it's just coming out of a grommet hole on the top of the gauge cluster in between the two gauges.
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