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Spawn

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About Spawn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Malta, NY, United States
  • Cars
    1972 620 SB, 1977 620 LB, 1986 Merkur XR4Ti & more!
  • Interests
    Video gaming, motorsports and movies

Recent Profile Visitors

2,650 profile views
  1. Spawn

    620 Gauge Cluster LED Conversion

    Well, on my continuing quest to get the gauge cluster converted over to LED bulbs, I made up this image of the rear of the cluster along with each of the bulbs that were removed. I have marked up where each of the bulbs come from to make it easier for others in the future. Once I've gotten the replacement LED bulbs figured out, I will edit the image with the appropriate information. One thing that does have me a little confused/stumped is that for the images that I have seen of other gauge clusters is that I have an additional box or module of some sort on the rear of the speedometer, just to the side of where the cable gets fastened onto the speedometer. Also, I have two wires with bullet style connectors that I didn't unplug when removing the gauge cluster, one blue and one green. I've looked into the cavity where the cluster gets installed in the dash, but I only see a blue wire with yellow stripe on it. I'm not sure if this should be where the blue wire plugs in or not, and for the green wire I haven't found a male opposite for this to tie in to. Due to the fact that I didn't have to unplug either of these wires when removing the cluster, I'm not even sure if either of these wires should be plugged into anything at all! The only thing that I can think the box/module might be for is to reduce oscillations in the speedometer gauge needle. If anybody happens to know what the module is for, I would love to know, as it seems to me that without having the green wire from the module plugged in I don't think that the module is getting a ground (as green is typically used for indicating grounds in wiring). As for the blue wire, I can't tell exactly where it goes to, as it's just coming out of a grommet hole on the top of the gauge cluster in between the two gauges.
  2. Spawn

    620 Gauge Cluster LED Conversion

    Well, I managed to get the instrument cluster out of the truck... in pieces. To be fair, it was already cracked in a few spots, and was fairly brittle. There was only one screw holding the bezel up just above the tachometer blankoff (but it didn't seem to be holding on to anything as there is no shoulder for the screw to hold against the plastic), and there was the screw holding the bottom of the gauges to the dash frame. Other than that, the only thing was the wiper washer switch (which came off rather easily after datzenmike provided the information on how to remove the knob - Thanks datzenmike!) and the lighter socket (which I did not figure out was simply a casing screwed on around the socket itself). Luckily, due to the damage that the instrument bezel had when I got the truck, I had already managed to get a spare bezel (a little lighter in color, but in much better shape), so I cleaned it up and installed the components in it. Just need to get the LED bulbs now!
  3. Spawn

    620 Gauge Cluster LED Conversion

    So it's basically like one of the push and lock style bulbs? What about for the silver ring with the notches in it? Any tips or hints on how best to get those removed without wrecking anything?
  4. Spawn

    620 Gauge Cluster LED Conversion

    Ok, well, either nobody is clicking the picture link to get to the post and comment there, or nobody has the information. So I'm gonna do my best to try and remove the instrument cluster, but my only concern is with regards to the Wiper Washer switch. I'm guessing that the knob for the switch pulls off like most other friction fit style knobs, but I'm unsure about the silver ring that rests against the cluster plastic. It has a groove on each side of the ring, so I'm thinking that you have to use a special tool to remove it (or perhaps a pair of needle nose pliers opened just wide enough will allow me to place the tips of the pliers into each groove and then I can just unscrew it like a regular screw)? Can anyone who has experience removing the Wiper Washer switch or the Light switch (as I believe it is the same sort of fastening mechanism for it) please let me know exactly how to remove it without wrecking the ring, cluster or switch itself? Judging from the picture below it seems like the silver ring just screws on over the shaft to hold each of the switches in place, but the ones on my 620 seem to be extremely tight.
  5. Spawn

    620 Gauge Cluster LED Conversion

    I'm posting this link here, as I don't know if anybody really gets notifications for changes in the How-To section of the Forums. If an admin or moderator deems that this should not be here, please feel free to remove it.
  6. Spawn

    How To: LED Your 620 Truck (Inside)

    I know that there are several people who have gone through the process of changing out all of their bulbs for the LED style, but I am a bit confused when I go through Zeusimo's How-To, as items 5 & 5b (Idiot Lights) describe Wedge Base bulbs, but the link provided is for BA9's. I don't have the opportunity to remove the gauge cluster just yet to visually confirm the type of bulb, as it is my daily driver. Can anyone who has performed this swap confirm if the bulbs are in fact Wedge Base bulbs or BA9's (I'm guessing Wedge Base due to the fact that the Idiot Gauge bulb item 4 is a Wedge Base but want to confirm)? Additionally, the How-To says that you only need 1 green bulb for item 2 (Turn Signal Lights), but I want to confirm if you only need the 1 because it does both the left turn indicator and the right indicator, or if you actually need 2 separate bulbs (one for left and one for right)? Along with the Turn Signal Lights, I am wondering if the Light and Wipe/Wash Illumination is similar in that you actually need 2 separate bulbs rather than the 1 bulb that the How-To indicates.
  7. Spawn

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I'm guessing for this, I would just use regular wire to feed the input and output and then mount on the fender or somewhere inside the engine bay. Has anyone actually used this item?
  8. Spawn

    New to me 620

    I'm in a similar state. Mine are dried out and allow the window to rattle in an out depending on the bumps, wind pressure at speed, etc. The only thing that I've seen for replacing are parts from Thailand, but they take forever to get here. 😒
  9. Spawn

    Correct Fusible Link?

    What's the stock size you're using Redeye? Is it a 20 gauge?
  10. Spawn

    New to me 620

    Which seals are you referring to? The ones that go around the top side of the glass in the channel of the door frame, or the ones that are down at the bottom of the glass where the glass rolls down into the door itself?
  11. Spawn

    From Farm to City Life! 1974 build thread.

    LRO255, where are you located in NY? Are you in the city or somewhere Upstate?
  12. Spawn

    Important Information About Tapered Inserts

    Actually, we tried the heat and BFH with the fork spreader (or whatever it's called). That wasn't getting the job done. So you're saying that if I just search Google online for something like "import pitman arm puller" it may actually find something? I'm on the hunt now! I can't believe I never thought of searching specifically for "Pitman arm puller"... here's a couple that I found. Which style would be best to use? I'm thinking the solid shaped one versus a hinged/expanding one. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W142-Pitman-Puller/dp/B0002KO0PO https://www.amazon.com/PITMAN-PULLER-CARS-TRUCKS-HEAVY/dp/B00OJNUYLY
  13. Spawn

    Important Information About Tapered Inserts

    MantisX620, out of curiosity, how did you manage to get your Pitman arm off of the steering rack? When we were trying to do it, my buddy only had a fork for an air hammer, so we tried using that but it wouldn't budge. I'm thinking that maybe it was because it's going in at an angle and causing the splines to bind somewhat. I would think some form of puller that would pull concentrically down the center of the shaft would be best, but I'm only familiar with one like that used for pulling steering wheels off (which are probably nowhere near as tightly held on as the Pitman arm is).
  14. Spawn

    Correct Fusible Link?

    So you're saying that I would be better off getting 20 gauge to be safe? I just wish that the industry stuck with standard color coding for the gauges and the amperage rating, then it would be very easy to ensure that you get the right fusible link.
  15. Spawn

    From France to USA : help please!

    Banzai510(hainz), do you happen to know which part number to use as a replacement for the GR-2/Excel-G? It would be nice to be able to install something that would compensate for lowering my truck 3" so that I'm not hitting the bump stops as often as I am.
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