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Spawn

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About Spawn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Malta, NY, United States
  • Cars
    1972 620 SB, 1977 620 LB, 1986 Merkur XR4Ti & more!
  1. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    If I could have found rubber bushings when I was doing the work, I would have done so. Unfortunately, they only had Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings available, so that's what was used. The other issue that I have is that the large nuts toward the front of the tension rods were seized in place. We tried to break them free with PB Blaster, a vise, and some good old elbow grease, but they weren't budging. Hopefully, I can buy the rubber 620 sway bar end link bushings that FrankRizzo and Moist Lightning had mentioned above and swap out the poly ones, but that's gonna have to wait until the transmission issue is dealt with first. Just for reference, are the 620 sway bar end link bushings these? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,620+pickup,2.0l+l4,1210138,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580 If so, it seems as though I would have to go with one of the Economy options to ensure that I got rubber bushings, because some of the Economy bushings appear to be poly, as do the Daily Driver and Premium options.
  2. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    Thanks, guys. So basically, if I understand correctly, what I need to do is measure the distance from where the bell housing attaches to the transmission to the end of the tail shaft. If it's 31.5" for the 620's old transmission, then it seems like the D21's transmission should work without any modifications (except I'm not sure about the placement of the shift lever - but I am guessing that it would be close to the same) or adjustments needed with the transmission tunnel or the driveshaft. We're planning on pulling the transmission out of the 620 tomorrow morning after work, and then hopefully pulling my co-workers D21 transmission out of his truck on Monday. At that point, I'm sure it will be easy enough to determine if it will be a direct swap or not, as I'll be able to measure them up against one another. I'll try to remember to get pictures for reference, as I'm sure someone else will have this question someday. Keeping my fingers crossed that it will be a direct swap and I won't have to wait to get a new driveshaft or have something made up custom.
  3. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    Ok, well I stuck with the bushings that I had originally gotten, without drilling them out. So far so good, no tension rod breakage, but I haven't pushed it too hard cornering. The tail end has been thrown around a few times, but nothing major yet. One problem I did run into was regarding the transmission. When my buddy and I did the swap, we took the bellhousing of the 240SX transmission and mated it up to the original 620 transmission, thereby not having to do any driveline modification or repositioning of the shift lever. Unfortunately, the old transmission didn't like a hard pull in 3rd and 4th (or maybe that's just when it decided to complain after some mild abuse over the previous weeks) and started making a racket. The following day, the sound from the transmission was almost unbearable. After work, we started driving the truck over to my buddy's shop and in the process 1st and 2nd were unusable, and I simply stuck it in 4th and hobbled along to get it to the shop. My buddy thinks that the countershaft bearing may have given up, and that was what was causing the noisy transmission, but then the drive to the shop may have compromised the countershaft or some other internal components (we haven't yet taken the transmission off and inspected it). I have another co-worker who has a 2wd D21 hardbody 5-speed transmission that he doesn't need and is willing to sell it to me to help me get the 620 back on the road, but I'm unsure if the transmission will be a direct swap, or if I will need to do some additional work. Does anyone happen to know if the D21 5-speed will directly replace the 620 5-speed (it has a dogleg shift lever) without any additional modifications (longer/shorter driveshaft, shift lever relocation)? If not, would I just be better off trying to find a 240SX 5-speed transmission and bite the bullet to install that, cut the transmission tunnel to relocate the shift lever and then get a custom driveshaft made up? Unfortunately I'm on a bit of a time crunch and need to get this all completed within the next week or so, as I'll be heading to Singapore for 5 weeks for work and I need to get the truck going before then so that it's not taking up my buddy's lift the whole time I'm gone, so I greatly appreciate some constructive feedback on this whole issue. I'm very much leaning towards the D21 transmission, as I've heard that it's about the same size as the 620's but if I can find out from someone who knows 100% if it will need additional work after swapping in the D21 tranny, then that is an immense benefit. Thanks in advance!
  4. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    Ok, the information is decent, but there is no way in hell a 5/16” drill bit is going to work in the tension bushings. That diameter bit is essentially the full width from the center of the bushing out to the edge of it. If I were to drill once in the center spacing I would be splitting the bushing open. This size drill bit may work for the 510 tension rod bushings but definitely not the ones I have for the 620!! My bushings are only 1-1/8” in overall diameter. Take out the 3/8” for the hole in the center and that leaves 3/4” of material to work with in removing 5/8” of material (2 x 5/16”). That would only leave me with 1/8” of bushing split over four points in a straight line (4 x 1/32” of support!). Has anyone used this procedure on a 620? If so do you have dimensions of the bushings that were used?
  5. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    Thanks datzenmike! Apparently I don't have authorization to view the page, but I think from your instruction of 6 x 5/16" holes drilled in an equally divided circle half way between middle and outer edge should be enough to do the trick!
  6. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    You wouldn't happen to have a link to that article would you? I managed to find "The Dime Quarterly" website, but when I searched for bushings and searched for poly bushings, I couldn't find the article you are referring to.
  7. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    datzenmike, unfortunately the local auto shop that I went to find the bushings for only had polyurethane ones. They didn't have a set of bushings in rubber that I was able to find. It was definitely a bit of a pain to get them all installed, so perhaps rubber wouldn't be so difficult. Do you happen to know where I would be able to order a full set of the rubber bushings for the tension rods?
  8. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    Ok, not sure if this will work or not, but I've gotta try: And: After a couple of passes just to make sure everything is good, found that the heater core input hose wasn't clamped enough with the spring clamp so it ended up losing a bit of coolant all over the passenger side floor. Installed a worm gear clamp and tightened it up and she was good to go after that. Really need to figure out what the best exhaust components are, as I'd like to keep it relatively quiet when idling, cruising or just driving around, but then let you know when you get on the throttle that it's not just the stock L20b anymore, but something with a bit of a growl. A buddy recommended going from the downpipe (yet to be made) into an Ultra Quiet Resonator, then through to either the currently installed muffler, or perhaps a new muffler. I definitely don't want something that's gonna annoy the neighbors as I'm driving through the community, but when I get on it it would be nice to have a good exhaust tone. What have you guys that have done other KA24DE swaps used for your exhaust components? We did discover that the turning radius at the moment seems quite large (probably due to not having a wheel alignment yet, along with having installed the centerlink bar in the wrong spot on the Pittman and Idler arms as you can see in the previous post of mine, and having to put the tie rod ends into the center position [if anyone happens to come across a new Pittman arm, or the whole steering box with the arm, please let me know, as I would seriously consider redoing the arms to get the centerlink in the right spot and improve my turning radius.]), but it is drivable at least!
  9. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    OK, here is the finished front suspension: And here is the finished rear suspension:
  10. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    I will have to start looking through your build thread! The exhaust manifold I got only had the option for a T3/4 flange, so that's what I ended up having to go with. It looks like it fits quite well and still leaves enough room to plumb up the exhaust and possibly go with a turbo in the future.
  11. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    UnderControl, Do you have any further photos of your turbo setup? I'm considering it, but I wasn't really planning on it, as it was just going to be to get me around and give me a bit more power for hauling stuff. From what I understand, not only would I need to find a good turbo to install, but I'd have to upgrade injectors to ensure I get enough fuel, and then also get the ECU modified to deal with the changes (or get an ECU from NismoTune or something like that).
  12. Spawn

    Custom MagnaFlow Exhaust with Side Exit

    JesseR, did you buy all of the parts from Amazon and have Rich's shop install everything, or was this all purchased directly in-house from Rich's Performance Exhaust
  13. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    Latest update: No progress on the truck yet, however, the new exhaust manifold came in and the initial mock-up indicates that it will be perfectly positioned to complete the exhaust work, and possibly allow me to upgrade to a turbocharger in the future (will find that out when I actually install the manifold and can get a much better look/idea of things) My next issue is figuring out how to route the wiring harness through the firewall. My buddy said that the rubber boot around the harness is maybe 3" in diameter, so I either stick with drilling a hole large enough for that to seat properly in the firewall or possibly remove that boot and use a smaller grommet setup. What I'd like to find out from those of you that have installed the KA24DE in your 620 is how you routed the wiring harness into the cabin to plug in to the ECU? I believe I've seen some pictures of the ECU being mounted directly below the passenger seat, but I'd also like to find out where others have mounted theirs. So please feel free to comment in here to let me know where the best place to mount the ECU is as well as how best to route the harness into the cabin through the firewall. Pictures are always good too!
  14. Spawn

    L20b for sale

    I'm sure I'm probably not putting this in the right place, but I wanted to try and pick some brains out there to figure out what would be the best way to sell the L20b that came out of my 1977 620 so that someone interested in doing a classic restoration would have a relatively decent starting point? The engine was running fine when it was pulled out of the truck to do my engine swap. It has had the alternator upgraded to a 2002 Saturn 90A unit, and when I bought the truck it already had the carburetor changed over to a Weber (or possibly a Weber knock-off). I'm hoping that someone would be able to use it and give it a new life in another 620 rather than just having my buddy take it to the scrapyard. Again, if I've put this in the wrong place, please feel free to move it where it needs to be and let me know so that I don't repeat the mistake.
  15. Spawn

    KA24DE conversion issues

    My apologies all. I've been working a bunch of overtime at work, so it hasn't given me a lot of opportunities to work on the truck. I did manage to get the early 720 AWD tie rods and have gotten them installed. This has solved my oil pan clearance issues, but I obviously haven't gotten an alignment done yet, so we'll see how good the solution is. On the surface, it looks like it will be sufficient but I did have to extend the driver's side tie rod out almost as far as I would dare to go yet still have the clamping portion hold things in place. We'll see after everything is all done and I can get it aligned. As for the exhaust issue, after seeing some options from others, I decided to try a whole different exhaust manifold that I just ordered yesterday. It is essentially a manifold that can be used for turbocharging the KA24DE, and places the flange for the turbo/exhaust in the middle of the manifold (between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders). We measured the space and it appears that it should mount in there without any interference from the steering column, but after looking more closely with the original long downpipe exhaust manifold that I had purchased, it looks more like the problem point will be getting around the torsion bar than the steering column. The new manifold is scheduled to arrive on the 25th, so hopefully, I can get it installed around that date, and then I just need to resolve the hookup of the exhaust and figuring out the radiator. I'll try and do my best to log on here a little more regularly to provide more timely updates. It sucks when life gets in the way of doing the stuff you want to do!
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