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About Spawn

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Malta, NY, United States
  • Cars
    1972 620 SB, 1977 620 LB, 1986 Merkur XR4Ti & more!
  • Interests
    Video gaming, motorsports and movies

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  1. Including transmission crossmember? I didn't know you had transmission crossmembers as well! Count me in. I've already got a set of the mounts for my son's '72 SB 620, but hey, you can never have too many mounts, right?
  2. It would be possible if there were any shops near me that actually did cable manufacturing. None of the shops that I've spoken to have the ability to manufacture a new cable or know of any place that does. On the plus side, the shop that I took the truck to spent a little extra time and managed to get the front cable un-seized and adjusted, so I'm back in business with having a functional parking brake, but who knows how long it is going to last for. I'm still hoping that someone might happen to have a replacement front cable that I can get from them just to be prepared for when the front cable finally decides to fail on me.
  3. I'm guessing from the lack of a response that nobody happens to have a spare front parking brake cable and bracket off of a parts truck or laying around that I would be able to get from them. I was really thinking/hoping that someone in the drier areas of the country where there generally tends to be a lot less rust might have something. I suppose it's time to come up with plan B. I've still got a bit of time before this needs to be done, so hopefully someone will reply sooner rather than later. If someone does happen to have something, you can also just message me directly through here. Thanks!
  4. Well, I'm now in a bit of a pickle. I am in need of the front parking brake cable with the bracket for the rear cables to attach onto. I'm hoping that someone on here may happen to have a spare cable lying around or maybe a parts truck that has a good cable on it that could be pulled? Thanks in advance to anyone that happens to have a front cable that's in good condition and is willing to part with it!
  5. So if I just get the SRK-142H short hub along with the NRG steering wheel, then the only thing additional that I would need would be an adapter plate to go between the hub and the steering wheel? Would you happen to know where I would be able to find the adapter plate, or is it something that has to be custom made?
  6. I know that there are a bunch of people who have installed different steering wheels in their 620's. I'm looking to get an NRG steering wheel and was told by their technical support that I would require their SRK-142H along with any of their quick releases version 2.0 or higher. I'm not 100% sure that I want to have a quick release, so I'm wondering if anyone has happened to install an NRG steering wheel without a quick release, and if so how did you manage it? The NRG tech support also mentioned something about being able to use a MOMO crush hub, but didn't go into further details. Has anyone here ever managed to use a MOMO hub on a 620 with an NRG steering wheel?
  7. Thanks again Don! I was looking at the Dorman cables listed on their website as replacements and was wondering from their images if this may not happen to be what you were talking about. I'm wondering if back in the day all of the cables may have had these rubber bellows to try and keep the cables as clean and dry as possible to extend their longevity? It doesn't seem as though the replacements for either side have the rubber sleeve on them, only the main cable coming from the cab. The Front cable (C93156): https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-44281-c93156.aspx?year=1977&make=Nissan&model=620&parttype=Cable%20-%20Parking%20Brake This looks in the pictures like it has the rubber bellows sleeve on the cable attached to the bracket. The Rear Right: Long Bed cable (C93296): https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-31482-c93296.aspx?year=1977&make=Nissan&model=620&parttype=Cable%20-%20Parking%20Brake It looks as though this cable has similar ends on each end of it. The Rear Left: Short Bed Cable (C93263): https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-18930-c93263.aspx?year=1977&make=Nissan&model=620&parttype=Cable%20-%20Parking%20Brake Interestingly, this cable appears to have a spring around one end of the cable, while the other end has some sort of spacer clip? Unfortunately, with me being in Austin, TX working for a couple more weeks, I'm not able to go out and see how things are setup on my truck (I've got it at a shop back at home waiting to do the work on it once I get everything figured out and can get the correct parts). I greatly appreciate the help you've been able to provide in trying to get this all sorted out.
  8. Don, Do you happen to have the actual length of the cables that you measured? Can anyone else confirm that the setup is the same for a standard cab with long bed and a king cab with standard bed?
  9. Thanks Don! Knowing that the majority of all of the 620's were pretty much identical for the model (short bed, long bed, king cab) I'm thinking that if both cables are the same length and are actually assembled the same way, then that may explain why Dorman only lists one side for each bed length. If this is the case, then I could probably just get two of the same cable to cover each side of the setup.
  10. I've been trying to find some information regarding the OEM parking brake cables here on Ratsun, but haven't managed to find the information yet, so I'm hoping that this thread will be a good source for info in the future. I have been trying to source replacement cables from a variety of places and know that there are at least a couple of different setups depending on if you have a short bed or a long bed truck. I would also hazard to guess that the cable setup for the long bed truck may be used for a short bed king cab truck? I don't know/believe that there was a long bed king cab model, but could be wrong. With that being said, I have been finding a lot of differing information from various sources. Here is what I have found so far: Dorman products listed three cables: Front cable C93156 is listed as a direct replacement for OEM #36451-B5000 or 36451-B8000 and is listed for 1974-1979 620s with the following specs: Cable Jacket Material: Rubber Cable Length: 71.65 In. Color/Finish: Black Conduit Length: 54.68 In. Installation Hardware Included: No Package Contents: Brake Cable Package Quantity: 1 Packaging Type: Box Universal Or Specific Fit: Specific Rear Left; Short Bed C93263 is listed as a direct replacement for OEM #36500-B8900 which is listed for 1975-1977 620s with the following specs: Cable Jacket Material: Rubber Cable Length: 65.98 In. Color/Finish: Black Conduit Length: 57.28 In. Installation Hardware Included: No Package Contents: Brake Cable Package Quantity: 1 Packaging Type: Box Universal Or Specific Fit: Specific Rear Right; Long Bed C93296 is listed as a direct replacement for OEM #36500-B8901 which is listed for 1975-1977 620s with the following specs: Cable Jacket Material: Rubber Cable Length: 65.91 In. Color/Finish: Black Conduit Length: 55.91 In. Installation Hardware Included: No Package Contents: Brake Cable Package Quantity: 1 Packaging Type: Box Universal Or Specific Fit: Specific What I find interesting is that the short bed and long bed cables listed are almost identical in cable length at 65.98" vs 65.91" respectively. The only thing that really seems to be different is the fact that the conduit lengths are different by about 1.37". Is there anyone on here who can confirm the actual lengths of the cables for both the short bed and long bed trucks? Did all of the trucks use the exact same front cable? I did order a parking brake cable set from eBay (which of course came from a seller in Thailand), however, the cables that came in were all too short to fit. When the part numbers on the bags were checked, only the Rear Left and Rear Right had part numbers on them, but those numbers don't match what Dorman lists as OEM numbers. The ones I received were 36510-B5300 (Rear Left) and 36500-B5300 (Rear Right). I am currently trying to find out from the seller if these were the part numbers for the long or short bed truck, as he told me before I made the purchase that he would ensure he sent the parts for the long bed model. I have also found other sellers on eBay (again they all appear to be from Thailand) that list having a long bed cable set (5 hook trucks) but the numbers that they show on their listing are 36400-B5200 (Front), 36500-B5300 (Rear RIght) and 36510-B5300 (Rear Left). None of those numbers match up with what I found from Dorman, so I'm wondering if anyone might have some way to look up these numbers from a parts manual or something and see what all of these different OEM part numbers actually are meant for. I also tried contacting Centric (APC Automotive Technologies) and Raybestos (Brake Parts Inc) but have only gotten a response back from Raybestos stating that they only list a BC93296 part number for the Rear Right on a long bed truck (which is almost identical to Dorman's part number of C93296 😲) and both the BC93163 (Rear Right: Short Bed) and BC93263 (Rear Left: Short Bed [which is also almost identical to Dorman's C93263]). Does anyone know of any other replacement part sources that may have all three cables still available for a long bed 1977 Datsun 620? At this point, it's looking like I might have to get some custom cables made if I can't source replacements. My apologies for the length of the post, but I know that there are many knowledgeable people on here who also have resources available to them that a lot of us don't have, so hopefully all of the different OEM numbers can be decoded to determine what they are actually meant for, and if possible can also list what the true OEM replacement numbers should be for each model.
  11. datzenmike, Redeye & FrankRizzo, thank you very much for the details and information. This is exactly what I was needing/looking for. I wasn't aware that the rears needed to be adjusted every 3-6 months, so I will definitely be trying this first, as the brakes hold pressure once they've been pumped 2-4 times while driving, but lose the feel and have to be redone each time. This makes me think that the rear pads are just too far away from the drums and when pressing the pedal the fluid is pushing the drums out as much as it can, causing the mushy feeling until it starts to either grab slightly or reach the point where the fronts are doing all the work. If adjusting doesn't work, then I'm going to probably swap out the master cylinder with the ZX unit, and then change the rear residual valve to ensure the rear drums aren't mushy. I'm also hoping that if adjusting the rears works that it will also return some functionality to the emergency/parking brake. If not, then I may end up calling on your expertise again to try and get it functioning again as I've never been a huge fan of leaving the transmission in gear when parking, but that's the only way I can keep it from rolling when parked on an incline anywhere I go.
  12. Redeye, So if you have discs up front and drums on the rear, the residual valves will be different for each? If I manage to get one of the 1979 280ZX Master Cylinders from RockAuto, then I would just have to ensure that I swap out the residual valves from my current setup to the new one to have it work properly for my setup?
  13. Redeye, what and where is the residual valve that you are referring to? As I read through your post a few more times, I'm thinking that this is something directly on the master cylinder? I'm just wanting to upgrade the master cylinder (if it needs it, which will probably be determined if I am able to adjust the rear drums at all), and I was thinking that RockAuto would probably be the best spot to locate one. So I want to make sure that if I do go that route that I am getting one that will simply bolt right on without needing any adapters or spacers, etc.
  14. datzenmike, so was I correct in how to adjust the rear drum brake cylinders, by pulling the rubber access plug off the rear of the plate and then reaching in with a screwdriver to adjust the notched wheel so that when you try spinning the wheel & tire, as it's off the ground, you feel dragging? As for the emergency brake, I know that my friend had tried adjusting it when we put in new shocks, but he wasn't able to get it to adjust. The kit that I got off of ebay is only the rear half of the whole setup, so I'm hoping that is the portion that is unable to be adjusted any further (cable stretch over time?). I have a feeling, however, that I will have to remove the drums from the rears in order to detach the old emergency brake cable and attach the new emergency brake cable, correct? I don't have front drums anymore, so I don't have to worry about forgetting them. 😎 As for the original master cylinder question, does the 15/16" 1979-1982 Z master cylinder directly swap out for any year of 620?
  15. Sorry to bring this up so many months later, but I believe that I'm in need of upgrading my master cylinder due to the fact that I don't really have much initial pedal. When I first press it, it basically goes down to the base of its travel, and then if I let it out about half way and press again a couple more times it tends to build up some pressure and holds fairly well. Once I get rolling again, I have to go through the same process even if it's only about a block of driving. Currently I don't think that the rear drums are biting at all, as it feels as though all of the braking is coming from the fronts only, and the emergency brake doesn't hold at all when I pull it out. I did get an emergency brake cable kit that I ordered from ebay, but it's only for the rear half of the whole setup. I know when we did the engine swap and various upgrades about a year ago the parking brake cable was not the best as it wasn't really grabbing until it was a few notches from being all the way out. I've read somewhere in the forums that for the rear drums they need to be adjusted often, but I thought that they were self adjusting cylinders. If not, then how often should they be adjusted? I'm guessing that the adjustment is simply moving the notched wheel adjustment ring on the rear cylinders until you start feeling resistance when trying to rotate the wheel as it's raised off of the ground? So will this 15/16" 1979-1982 Z master cylinder work for any year of 620, or does it only apply to the same years? I've got a 1977 620 so I'm hoping that the Z master cylinder will work for all years of 620. In addition, I've got Beebani's front disc conversion but still having rear drums I'm not sure if just swapping to the Z master cylinder will be sufficient or overkill. I do have a rear disc conversion kit somewhere stashed away to install, so I'm thinking that it should be alright to run with.
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