L16 wont run, carbs gone bad?

[Eric]

I bought me a 510 after searching for one for 4 years, there aren't a lot of them over here. Been standing on a driveway for 3 years, trailered it home and now it wont run.

I start it, but it wont run for more than a second, stalls immediately and wont keep running, not when i pull the choke, not when i push on the gaspedal.

 

Fuel pump works fine, fuel sprays out off it when i take of the fuel hose. there is a spark on every spark plug, carbs gone bad from standing stil? Is this hard to clean/rebuild by myself? Never did that before.

[Zeusimo]

Drain Gas Tank

New Fuel Filter

Rebuild Carburator

[Eric]

I use a jerrycan as a fuel tank for now, its is a new jerrycan with new fuel,and connected to the fuel pump with a brand new piece of fuel line with a new transparant filter. i am using this just to get it running, already pulled the original tank from the car to clean it. So that part is covered.

[Eagle_Adam]

id check the jets in the carb, could be clogged. What kind of carb is it? Got pics?

[Zeusimo]

Pull The Carb Off

 

Get A Rebuild Kit And CLEAN Every Jet

Just As If Your Life Depended On It

 

Put It Back Together

Should Run Like A Top :)

[ggzilla]

Most likely do not need the rebuild the carburetor. But may need to clean the fuel bowl and the jets..

[banzai510(hainz)]

make sure your elelctrical connections are good at the coil and at the white ceramic ballast resisitor.

It might want to RUN in start but not when key is ON. Look there first.

 

Get soem carb cleaner.

If carb sprays gas when you push the pedal down it should still run if you pump the gas pedal alot(means you run off the accell pump from the carb.

 

ck for 12volts at the blk wht wire when key is on at the white ballast resistor. If NO then clean the fuse box and reseat the connectors. Take them off clean them and put them back on.

[Eric]

 

These are my carbs, they look the same as the ones on my 260z. i checked the electrical connections on the coils and the ceramic thingy, cleaned them and took a bit of sandpaper to sand them down. so that should be ok. I will check the blk/wht wire.

I never took a cab apart, things i should look at before i dod this? what can go wrong? can i just take off the top and then i will find the jets?

[ggzilla]

Oh, Hitachi sidedraft do not have jets -- or accelerator pumps. Those should be 38mm, the 240Z had 46mm units.

 

Remove each dipstick and check the oil level.

 

Lift the piston inside the hole with your finger. If it moves up and drops back it should be OK. If they are sticky, remove piston chambers (top cylinders) and clean them out. Do not scrape or use sandpaper but lightly brush. The needle, if gummed up, clean it.

 

Spray a puff of starting fluid (ether) in each carb and see if the engine fires up. it may not continue to run, but it will test the spark ignition.

[Eric]

ill check that tonight, if the pistons are sticky and ill have to take them out to clean them, is that just a matter of taking off the top or do i need to remove other things before i will be able to do that? and if i cleaned them, i have to grease them up with oil again? just engine oil or something specific?

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK SUs dont have accell pumps

Try starting fluid and see what happens.

[ggzilla]

Do not grease them. Just clean them if necessary. You could check with a brit, they know how to tune an SU in the dark fog w/o a torch. We are not very familiar with them here, as they only came on the 1969-1974 Z-car.

[Eric]

Well i tried to move the pistons and they go up and down easily so i guess thats fine, tried started fluid too but that didnt help much, i'll check the rest of the carb functions on the Z board.

I did think of something else that might be the problem, but its kind of a long shot, i replaced the ignition barrel with a Z one cause mine could turn anymore,

 

 

The one i am holding with my fingers is the Z one, as you can see it is a bit different from the bottom one since it doesnt have the metal/brass part on the left. on the bottom one it says acc next to the brass thing. Now Banzai510 mentioned the black/white wire, is there the possibility the black/white wire gets is power from this acc brass part?

[ggzilla]

Yes, that switch is busted. Not to mention it is corroded.

 

If you have good spark, it will fire off starting fluid. I can even get an engine to start with no carburetor.

[ggzilla]

This missing contact on the switch is IGN -- which would explain why it won't start.

 

[Eric]

weird, the Z started just fine with it.. well i hope that will solve the mystery :)

Ill give it a go tomorrow, see if i have another ignition barrel somewere.

[datzenmike]

groan.... proof that 90% of carburetor problems are electrical.

 

It might want to RUN in start but not when key is ON. Look there first.

 

 

[Eric]

Its fixed now! I took the back end of the original ignition barrel and put that on the Z ignition barrel, bolted it back in the car, turned the key and it started right away and kept running :)

 

Runs a bit rough, and the clucth master is gone but it runs, first step in driving it!

 

Thanks for the help all of you!

[DanielC]

L-16 engines use a ballast resistor when running. This resistor is bypassed by the ignition switch in the crank position. If the run connection is missing, the car starts, and runs with only with the key in start position

[datzenmike]

Exactly. It will also have the same symptom if the ballast resistor is broken.

[Eric]

that explains it all :)