Sealik Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Due to the alt regulator bypass being wired incorrectly...it fried my HEI module. A new one from the locale parts store is 96 bucks... :blink: ....Soooo.... I bought one from the wreckers....but...no heat sink compound to 'properly' install. Was thinking of mounting it away from the inner fender, with the back of the module open to air....for cooling. Does the back of the mod' need to be placed (with the heat sink compond) hard up against other metal to properly dissapate heat???...or.... will a 1/2" gap behind the module suffice? Module will be properly grounded with the bolts.... I'm assuming it will work......but.....who knows for how long...and I've been wrong before... :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 You could bolt it to the inner fender or somewhere where the rad blows air on it. I wouldn't worry about it much... after all they come from inside a GM distributor don't they? And they work all covered in. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I put mine on an 1/8" chunk of aluminum plate. Works very well to dissipate the heat. I could be wrong, but I think you'll want the whole metal plate of the module grounded. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I thought these things were cheap! Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Rockauto sells whole Chevy distributors with that module for $96... They sell the module alone from $2.80 all the way up to like $56, and there is a lot between. You sure they quoted you on just the module? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 GM has a lot of em go bad due to heat. And yes, they are connected to a metal heat sink, the distributor plate. But not much airflow inside the cap there. I would mount it on an aluminum plate for heat disapation , bolted to strut tower for airflow. Probably last forever. But I'm not sure if they are moisture proof like the good old Hitachi module. Why don't you just run a Hitachi module? They are 4-pin just like the GM module. But look cuter. Keep it real, keep it Nissan. Quote Link to comment
D52E Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I ended up using a heat sink from a late 1990's GM truck to mount my HEI Module Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 D52 that looks GOOD!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I bought one off Ebay last year for 31 bucks delivered...it was 38 at the local parts store at that time. That brand is NLA.....it is 96 bucks now...just for the module. Paid 20 at the wreckers. All new ones come with a pack of heat sink compound....which.....if not applied properly relative to app....can lead to premature failure from excessive heat. If a module does not sit perfectly flat against another surface....air pockets are created, thus reducing heat dissipation... The compound fills the voids..... http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm Have no Hitachi modules.....so...probably just find a (flat) hunk of aluminum...maybe slather than back with some zinc oxide (for cuts)....same shit I believe but not as 'strong' Or....visit my computer buddy and see what he has for heat sinks..... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Accel and MSD make moduels,maybe Mallory also Standard Motor Products? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Nice work, looks good. "Strong" comes from the coil, not from the module. We know the GM module can handle a coil strong enought for .054 gap, not sure if the Matchbox can handle that. Matchbox can handle a coil for .042 gap, but most folks are running .035 with it haha. If you have a matching Datsun coil you should at least regap the plugs to .039. The larger gaps fire lean mixtures better. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I have no Hitachi modules.....so...probably just find a (flat) hunk of aluminum...maybe slather than back with some zinc oxide (for cuts)....same shit I believe but not as 'strong' "Strong" comes from the coil, not from the module. We know the GM module can handle a coil strong enought for .054 gap, not sure if the Matchbox can handle that. Matchbox can handle a coil for .042 gap, but most folks are running .035 with it haha. If you have a matching Datsun coil you should at least regap the plugs to .039. The larger gaps fire lean mixtures better. "Strong"................I was referring to the strength of zinc oxide (ointment) for cuts.....not the module... :D Anywho....I have a Blaster 2 coil, plugs are gapped at .035...........(go wider?) Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Blaster 2 coil is just about the same as stock Datsun high energy (matchbox coil) both are 0.7 ohms. Yes you can go to the .039 to .043 gap that the matchbox engines use. If you set them to .039 they will wear to .043 in a couple of years. Then regap them once more. You might notice the engine run a bit smoother, but probably won't notice anything. More telling is to measure your fuel economy before and after. Quote Link to comment
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