iwayman Posted August 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 My intake pipes are basically what I've scrapped off my parts car 2" intake and some extra pipe I had left over from my downpipe. So all around 16 gauge aluminized steel. I might try that beader but in reality I should just weld the whole thing lol Right now I have FIVE totally unnecessary couplers! I just need to get off my ass and weld it. Also need to fix my mig to weld aluminum so I can put a bracket on my intercooler and bolt that shit down. Btw anyone know why my mig does this on aluminum? Straight argon with spool gun. Practicing on some aluminum diamond plating but I've tried on other aluminum stuff with the same result. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Because that diamond plate is garbage.... The absolute most important thing when welding aluminum is CLEAN aluminum. Sand that bright finish coating and clean the shit out of it. As for blow through.... I ran an sr20det with a blow through maf pushing 300whp daily for years. I even reversed the stock Bov, reversed the vacuum ports and it held 18psi all day. -Josh Quote Link to comment
datsundash Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 clean the aluminum with scotch brite Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 i gave up on mig'n aluminum and bought a tig. However, make sure its wired correctly. I believe you have to reverse the polarity for aluminum, i forget. Like mentioned above, clean it! 1 Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Ya I had read about how aluminum oxidizes really quickly so when I was playing around with it to clean it i sanded it a little and then wiped it down with denatured alcohol. Is that not enough cleaning? I dont believe I can adjust the polarity with this mig welder. Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 should be good with cleaning. You should be able to reverse polarity, its where the wires for the mig gun connect inside the welder. You'll see a + and - . Should have a wing nut on it. I have the older version of your welder and thats how mine looks. If its wired correctly, then make sure you are getting enough sheilding gas. Quote Link to comment
datsundash Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 do you have the polarity correct? For mig welding aluminum, you need DCEP or Direct current electrode positive. Make sure your leads are properly hooked up, you have sufficient shielding gas flow, the metal is clean, and your machine is dialed in. The rest is just technique. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Ya I had read about how aluminum oxidizes really quickly so when I was playing around with it to clean it i sanded it a little and then wiped it down with denatured alcohol. Is that not enough cleaning? I dont believe I can adjust the polarity with this mig welder. Jrock owns a small business ( as you know ). He state's that he sandblasts larger amounts of aluminum for a customer ,,, as prep for welding. Also your headlight combo switch is likely problematic issue ,,, If your tight on money ,,, you can bypass the running lights to a universal toggle switch You can also bypass the headlights to a universal toggle switch ,,, ^^^ It's not the right way ,,, and I know people are going to criinge when they see that lol But I have had to do it ,,, as I lost running ligjhts while driving down a boulevard in FRONT of a COP lol. A company down in Rancho Cucoamongo ? California Re-Furbishes them. I would just guess they re-solder and test them. Keep your eyes peeled at the local junkyard as a first option. I would attmept repair on a seperate combination switch if you choose to go that direction :) Good luck ! Car looks great !!! Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Well I havent spent much time fiddling with the lights but today I finally got around to welding up my intake piping. I just need to grind down the welds a little more and then paint it. As you can see I ran some cold welds to fill in some gaps. Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 You should also boost leak test your system. Here is a DIY http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/turbo-tech-making-a-do-it-yourself-boost-leak-tester.html I made a similar one but with a schrader valve(bike valve) instead. Cost like 5 bucks. I welded mine up like yours as well but still had a few small pinhole leaks. The car would still hold boost with the tiny leaks, but I would assume it ran better with none. Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 got off my ass and finished it. Rattle can high temp engine paint. Can't tell in the pic but it's a little more red than the paint on my car. Now I'm going to try to increase max boost to around 12psi. Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 I'm thinking about selling this locally if my dad lets me. How much do you guys think this is worth? There's more than 5k in modifications and the rebuilt engine has 600 while the body has 27.7k ORIGINAL MILES on it with a 20yo restoration. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 I say 5-6k, if your a good salesman Unless you can document the miles all the way back thats worthless. If you can and swapped that turbo in you completely devalued your car. Not a clean swap, decent condition s30 turbo, 5-6k is going rate. This way cleaner example recently ended for just over 5k reserve not met. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Datsun-240Z-L28-Turbo-T3-AEM-Stand-Alone-ECU-260-WHP-Daily-Driver-Fast-/230840555378?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35bf2b5772#ht_72853wt_939 Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Ya I saw that, with some pretty similar mods too. Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Working on cleaning up the engine bay. Make it into a "clean" swap :thumbup: Bought this for super cheap: Worked all afternoon and now I have this: :rofl: Don't hate on my paint! It's more of that rattlecan engine paint from my intake piping. It's currently 50mm but tomorrow I'll port it out to 70mm and sand the gasket surfaces. It now has three ports, one on the bottom for my air regulator, one for my booster, and one for a billet 6 vacuum port I've got on the way. :D Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted December 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 Aw Yiss. Motha fuckin winter break. Did a little work in the bay. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 looking better man gj Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Wait. you eliminated the intercooler? Also, you really like plumbing fittings eh? lol Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Wait. you eliminated the intercooler? Also, you really like plumbing fittings eh? lol I am back home this week for spring break and since I ruined the engine in my vg510 I need to build this into a daily driver. I've eliminated the intercooler because my ic piping was sub par and the intercooler is non crossflow. I have also switched back to stock seats and will also be installing a stock ignitor and coil after I chase down all of the wiring gremlins. Plumbing fittings are easy and get the job done. 1 Quote Link to comment
cjack300zx Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Stock seats look 100 times better Quote Link to comment
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