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1970 240z USDM 432


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No idea what what internet is lol but doesnt matter since I only need to use it for two and half more months :rofl:

He couldnt give me a solid quote until he got my car up on the lift and looked at it but I knew it couldnt be too bad since my friend had recently got his done there.

 

Heres the current exhaust. Very soft sounding compared to the old.

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That is a quiet exhaust. My old turbo setup was a fair bit louder. It is amazing though that all turbo setups damn near sound alike at idle.

 

 

 

20 BTDC as risking a burnt piston when you rev the engine up under load. Set it to the stock spec to start with. If it doesn't idle well at the stock spec, it's not the timing that causing it to idle rough.

 

It helps to have a FSM. I can tell you that stock timing at idle on a 1983 L28ET is 24 degrees.

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They did come stock with T3 AiResearch Turbos that same company made aftermarket turbos as well like the one thats in my car T3/TO4E it's a hybrid turbo. I've seen someone get away with 280hp on a stock turbo but that's probably pushing it.

 

Hey iwayman you got a pm by the way.

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Installed an aluminum radiator to help combat overheating.

TYSIJ.jpg

 

Now i've got another problem which I hope you guys can help me out with so I can attend my local z car meet tomorrow.

When my engine gets up to running speed my engine wants to die between shifts or when it goes to idle basically if I'm not giving it any gas.

Any ideas?

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Damn that looks nice with all the rest of the shiny stuff under the hood. Car sounds awesome in person, really like your car so never get rid of it :D

 

Is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) new? If not take it off and see if the connections aren't corroded. I could be wrong, buy look at the coil as well make sure all your spark plug wires are nice and tight.

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do you have an air/fuel gauge? At idle try putting a piece of thin paper next to the bov. If it sucks the paper in you have a huge vacuum leak. If not, then I would check your idle when the engine is warm and maybe adjust that up a bit.

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If you have a intercooler set up then run a blow thru afm setup. And if you insist on having the BOV put it before any air metering. Basically, with intercooler, BOV after intercooler and before afm/maf, that way you let out metered air and your computer freaks out, also, get a good BOV, cheap greddy ones suck. Hks, synapse are both good. They also have anti-stall valves available for them which prevents them from sucking in air at idle or during light throttle applications where there's vacuume present.

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As long as your BOV is before the maf then you should be good.

I understand what youre trying to say about the BOV leading to uneven amount of air but I dont think youre supposed to put the maf on the boosted side of the turbo.

Couple guys at my local car show said it could be dying because its running too rich when I get off the gas. If i stay in gear until I come to a stop I can sometimes keep it running. It also backfires alot when I get off the gas.

Here's a pic of the local car show, my car's the orange one in the background.

C17Zb.jpg

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You can put the maf after the turbo although I don't know how successful you will be with the stock 280z unit. Plenty of people have done that with other cars. It is a blow through setup instead of a draw through. Like I said before, check your BOV. It is running rich because your maf reads "x" amount of air, but when you let off your throttle and your BOV goes off that metered air is not reaching your motor but the atmosphere instead. Therefor you are running rich. That is also why you are getting backfires. Remember, your maf reads air and tells the ECU how much fuel to give.

 

you can remedy this by recirculating your BOV or tuning your ECU accordingly and adjust for the BOV. Hope this makes sense.

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Ha ha ya I understand how they work, but isnt the O2 sensor supposed to remedy the fact that its running rich? I have a ford MAF, its not stock and it's 3.5 into 3" but Im now setting it up as a blow through, I cut and welded a bov flange into a section of my hot side intake and i'll be running the maf right next to the tb, on the cold side. My cold side now consists of 2.5 to 3 to 3.5 to 3 to 2.75" lol

I'm just waiting on a couple silicone couplers now.

uFbC2.jpg

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nice! once it reaches the o2 its too late, won't compensate for that much change in air that is being read through the maf. Also, if you are doing a blow through you need to make sure that the maf is a good distance away from the throttle body and you usually will need it to be on a "longer" straight piece of pipe. Reason is, when the throttle body closes you get air going back through the maf so its like its getting a double reading. And if its on a bend, the maf gets a bad reading "for some people". I would try whatever set up you got going to see if it works, if its still running rich its because of the given reason i just stated.

 

Seems like everything is coming together really nicely though! Builds like this make me want to get a z. :thumbup:

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Ya the spot in the pic is the only place I can run my maf on the cold side, and my hot side is 2" lol. It'd be 2 into 3.5 into 3 into 2 if I ran it on the hot side so we'll see how this turns out.

 

What does this do? Is it a valve? The PO didnt have it hooked up to anything...

a5orU.jpg

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lol with all the ticker tape flags there (or whatever you call them) it looks like a secondhand car yard here in Australia! nice car though, thats going to go like a rocket - have you ever thought of putting an RB 20 or 25 turbo in? in the late 80's we also got the RB30 n/a or turbo (singlecam though) here in Australia which apparently, were made specifically for our market. The local arm of general motors (Holden) were left without a 6 cylinder engine for several years as the existing pushrod 6 could not be made to comply to emissions regulations (cause it was basically based off a chevy sideplate 6 and came out in the 1960s and had basically had no mechanic changes since then) and secondly because the v6 they were developing, which was based on the Buick V6 wasn't going to be ready for a few more years. So they reached out to GM for assistance, and they got pointed in the direction of Nissan as GM had done some deal with them for something or other and a deal was struck and they modified their RB engine for the extra capacity to suit the demands of the Australian market where it would need to cope with demands such as towing and carrying loads over long distances) The VL commodore model that it found it's way into won instant praise for the smoothness and instant power of the engine and a turbo model came out a few months after the release which had corvette four-wheel disc brakes and was actually quicker down the quarter mile than the 5.0 litre V8 model!! No prizes for guessing that the nissan engine is now sought after (especially the turbo models) and is praised as one of the best holden engines ever! (that wasn't a Holden!)

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