Advice on cancer treatment

[boxboy]

I have what I think is a pretty good specimen of a '68 520 pick up. It is amazingly straight, and I didn't think it had too bad of rust. But I noticed the other day while I was sweeping out the bed that some of the seam seal was lifted up just behind the fender. So, I just couldn't help but pick at it. A little poking with a screw driver revealed that I have a pretty soft line just above where the bed floor spot welds to the side wall. The rust is in the side wall itself. Without sanding or wire brushing it down, I can't know for sure how bad it is, but it doesn't look like it gets down into the spot welds. Anyway, here are some pictures. I want to fix it right, but I don't have welding skilz. I imagine I could handle cutting and cleaning and even fitting a new patch if that is what it takes. Just wondering if I will most likely have to grind the spot welds and then have the new patch plug welded, or if I can get away with just welding above the spot welds. Take a look and tell me what you think.

 

[metalmonkey47]

Wire brush to start, so we can see the extent of the damage. may have to replace some metal around there.

[boxboy]

Yeah, I am not 100% convinced I want to start on major body work at this point. Not at least until after Canby in a couple of weeks. If I had a dumby bed to put on there so I could use the truck it might be okay after that as long as I could take it slow. I don't want to drive around with major holes in the side of my truck. I am just too proud I guess. Not a true "Ratsun" guy I guess. I have dreams of making this truck look nice, eventually.

[FoxyRoadster]

I say wire brush it, weld up the holes and rustoleum. Not the proper way nor the prettiest but if you are concerned about leaks and rust... lol

[merlin]

spray on some marhyde 1 step rust converter... it will slow things down until you want to deal with it.

[boxboy]

Phosphoric acid? I have some "rust mort" if that is the same stuff. Probably need to wire brush at least any real loose stuff off to make that do anything, right?

[merlin]

yup... similar a rust converter that acts as a primer too and dries non oily. wire brush it... when you are ready, have the whole box blasted with crushed glass, self etching primed, then fix the dings and holes and do your prime fill paint.

[boxboy]

I did some more aggressive wire brushing yesterday. There are a few more pin holes, but it is so close the the spot welds that I am afraid that if I work from the outside of the truck it will expose more damage between the bed metal and the side metal where the spot weld are. So I may talk to a welder. Can anyone tell me what gauge of metal a 520 bed is made of?

[merlin]

its likely 18 or 20 guage

[DanielC]

My belief, there is no easy fix for rust.

 

I do understand your comment "I want to fix it right, but I don't have welding skilz."

 

If you want to fix it right, you are going to need to weld. Unfortunately, a little rust in an old truck or a car is like a small soft spot in a floor of a boat. Instead of repairing the floor in a few places, you may end up replacing the floor, and the stringers in the boat.

 

Here is an idea. Clackamas Community College offers a class for the non professional, called "Auto Restoration" It meets every other Saturday, during each quarterly term, and goes for about 10 to 12 hours each time, so you can have enough time to start a project, get some work done, and finish it. It has knowledgeable instructors, access to welding equipment, a paint booth, and a lot of tools you normally do not have at home.

 

Just a warning, Welding on relatively flat panel is a pain. It is very easy to get some, or a lot of warp in the metal as the metal heats up by welding, and then cools.

Even though the metal may have been 18 or 20 gauge when the truck was new, the rust has eaten away a lot of that metal. It may actually be thinner than 24 or 30 gauge, once the rust is removed, and you have to remove the rust to weld it.

 

Covering the rust up with something will not work in Oregon, unless you never get the truck wet, again. If any rust is left, and any moisture get on it, the rust starts again.

[scooter stuff]

This should do it- http://metaldipping.com/

[I'm BLUE]

chemical paint eater and petreoleum jelly works great for some applications.

 

Sandblast is best but messy

 

or

 

Cut and weld ( most satisfying ) is best LONG term solution for structural areas of a vehicle.

 

 

wire brush /Rust-converters / por-15 type products do work for short and long term.

 

 

If it's non-structural ,,, just do what the guys above said or to the best of your ability/time/space/tools.

 

Once you START down this path ,,, you don't want to stop ,,, and it's never ending ! haha

[boxboy]

I have spoken with a friend of mine that has welded for over 40 years. He says he thinks he can do it. He prefers stick welding to wire. He welds on thin metals for art type creations, but was pretty confident he could handle this. Now I just have to get it cleaned up (hopefully with a detail sand blast gun) and see how much rot I have to cut out. I will be at Canby on Saturday, so maybe I can get some input there. I just wasn't necessarily ready to get into this full tilt yet. I started soaking bed bolts last week just thinking ahead. I wish I had a spare bed to swap on so I could still drive while repairing.

[boxboy]

My belief, there is no easy fix for rust.

 

I do understand your comment "I want to fix it right, but I don't have welding skilz."

 

If you want to fix it right, you are going to need to weld. Unfortunately, a little rust in an old truck or a car is like a small soft spot in a floor of a boat. Instead of repairing the floor in a few places, you may end up replacing the floor, and the stringers in the boat.

 

Here is an idea. Clackamas Community College offers a class for the non professional, called "Auto Restoration" It meets every other Saturday, during each quarterly term, and goes for about 10 to 12 hours each time, so you can have enough time to start a project, get some work done, and finish it. It has knowledgeable instructors, access to welding equipment, a paint booth, and a lot of tools you normally do not have at home.

 

Just a warning, Welding on relatively flat panel is a pain. It is very easy to get some, or a lot of warp in the metal as the metal heats up by welding, and then cools.

Even though the metal may have been 18 or 20 gauge when the truck was new, the rust has eaten away a lot of that metal. It may actually be thinner than 24 or 30 gauge, once the rust is removed, and you have to remove the rust to weld it.

 

Covering the rust up with something will not work in Oregon, unless you never get the truck wet, again. If any rust is left, and any moisture get on it, the rust starts again.

 

I actually would be interested in this. I will have to check out the cost. Might save a lot of $ in buying tools I may only use once in a great while, and give me some much needed instruction. Any ideas on the cost?

[DanielC]

Spring term was $365.50. I do not know about what summer term cost will be, should be similar.

Call (503) 594-3047

[merlin]

the college idea is a great idea! it would be the best money you ever spent... i have a few grand in tools that the average college can offer you for your project for free. You really want to be doing mig spot welding on this not stick... too much heat on a panel like this will give you endless problems with warp. and i agree, cut back to good metal... welding rust or thin metal is a waste of time.

[MikeRL411]

Community college courses are the best thing old car owners have ever paid taxes on! If you can't find the time to enroll yourself, talk to the instructor. Many times the course is suffering for good examples of cars or trucks to use for the students to work on. Leaving your vehicle for 6 months may result in a virtually new vehicle. Boby work and upholstry for the cost of materials alone is a good deal!