datrat Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 Got a cannon manifold for dual weber dcoe 40s. Anybody have any ideas what to do with the coolant supply line and the pcv? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 Cap the coolant line. You could run the PCV with a valve to that threaded port on the manifold. Might need a t-fitting to run the power brake booster there as well. Or, a lot of people just run the PVC without the valve to a catch can on the firewall. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 how does not having a coolant supply to the intake affect the performance? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 The coolant passages are only for warm up I believe. Some intakes have the passages and some don't. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 you may try and put the intake on and hope it seals. What I do is use a 1/4 inch pipe plug(1/4 is the size of the allen wrench used) You thread the coolant port and put the pipe plug in untill flush. You need a short threaded shaft type so it doesnt go to far in and hit the otherside. it is tapered so you might have to do it a couple times untill the plug is flush or just under. This will be sure there will be no leaks. The water inlet side, I just use a bolt in the hole method. the PVC I open vent it.(nothing hooked up) Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted April 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 you don't think the intake will seal? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 It may or may not? otherwise I woundt have used the pipe plug. depends On how good the gasket is .Some have a metal ring around the water ports and some dont. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Here's a little update on what I've done. The battery needs to charge before I can start it. I'm pretty sure this is overkill and its too much gas into an L16 but it will have to do until I can find an L20b...or think of something else. Capped the coolant supply Ran a hose to a breather Installed a weber 32/36 throttle to fit the stock cable. Took out an airhorn because of brake booster. Oh yeah, I put a shorty in it. Quote Link to comment
exit64 Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Hey man, Get that airhorn back on there or you will never get the curve right when you tune those carbs. They aren't just for good looks you know. You can get a narrow K&N filter if you have clearance issues. Other than that, clean install. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 What year is your truck? You can also get shorter velocity stacks (air horns) for better clearance. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 thanks for the tips. it is a 1973. i will get shorter horns. i have another issue though. it looks like a gas leak from the intake, but i'm not sure. i've torqued all bolts according to the manual except the lower outers which hug the intake and header. there's no way i'm getting sockets of any kind in there. after it warms up, a bit of white smoke flows upward. what does it look like to you guys? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 It looks like you need the heavy washers that should be there. Could be the paint on that header... Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Tapping into ONE runner for the PCV is NOT a good idea.Unless you can run some type of balance tube and pipe from there,i wouldn't run a PCV. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 The heavy washers are there for the lower bolts. Is that gas seepage on the gasket though? It seems to be seeping into the exhaust ports. The white smoke is possibly paint. It does smell that way. The hose from the crankcase goes to a breather. There is no more PCV. I left it stuck to my old manifold. Quote Link to comment
phatdave Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 What size are the venturis? From what I have read you need about 30mm chokes in a 16oocc. dd:fu: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 thanks for the tips. it is a 1973. i will get shorter horns. i have another issue though. it looks like a gas leak from the intake, but i'm not sure. i've torqued all bolts according to the manual except the lower outers which hug the intake and header. there's no way i'm getting sockets of any kind in there. after it warms up, a bit of white smoke flows upward. what does it look like to you guys? Several lower bolts clamp the exhaust and the intake using a large thick 'washer'. If the intake flange and the exhaust flange are different thicknesses the washer will clamp unevenly across them. Because this manifold does not have a common chamber, having a working PCV will be difficult to make. Consider having one as there are definite benefits. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 The chokes are 30mm. Thats about where it needs to be for a 1600. Max rpm is at about 5600, and looking on the curve, 30mm venturis should do it. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 here are some shots of the lower bolts. this inner one is torqued correctly. this outer one is not and the washer is uneven. however, is it normal for the gasket to seep gas, as in the earlier pic? Quote Link to comment
phatdave Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 Hey I'm talking to you. Look at me. dd:fu: Quote Link to comment
e_racer1999 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 i think your gasket is on backwards Quote Link to comment
phatdave Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 Piss off ..I'm asking someone a question. dd:fu: Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 If its not damaged, I will turn it around this weekend. Quote Link to comment
e_racer1999 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 What size are the venturis? From what I have read you need about 30mm chokes in a 16oocc.dd:fu: The chokes are 30mm. Thats about where it needs to be for a 1600. Max rpm is at about 5600, and looking on the curve, 30mm venturis should do it. this? Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 It is possible that replacing the existing dual brake master cylinder with the part number 46010-N0110 single brake master cylinder might clear the interference. This was the NISMO recommended cure for retrofitting SSS induction system SU carbs to type L engines in sedans. Part numbers are from the 1997 Nismo catalog. Quote Link to comment
datrat Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 The velocity stacks clear the mc. Its definitely the booster. I think the only solution is to get short velocity stacks like this: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Images/Catalog/ah829trumpet.jpg I'm not sure but I think they're about 30 bucks each. Oh, and I went through 2 other master cylinders before I got a good one. I don't remember how many quarts of fluid I went through or how tired my arm got from pumping. I don't want to mess with the brakes for a while. Quote Link to comment
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