xzile609 Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Anyone have a link I can follow to get the motor mounts I need for a ka24de to a 510. I know the 620 mounts will work I think. But sites like new Datsun parts shows them as NA. 1 Quote Link to comment
FiveTenzo Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I got my stock 510 ones for my ka swap from rockauto.com Around $13-15 I think 620 ones should work and make the engine an inch higher, oh so I've read. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 With sohc I hear you use the ka uppers and the 510 lowers. ka24e and ka24de same block same mounts? ?? Just move the 510 lower mounts to the bottom holes in the crossmember. Havent tried it but I'm going to soon Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 McKinney Motorsports sells some fancy ones. http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_DATSUN+510+SR+SWAP+PARTS Disregard the product colors, as they are all red now. Here's a pic of them in my 510 with KA24DE Quote Link to comment
xzile609 Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 So does the motor mount Sammich go like this Motor 240sx Brackets 620/510 Ruber mount Crossmember lower bolt holes. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 McKinney Motorsports sells some fancy ones. http://mckinneymotor...0+SR+SWAP+PARTS Disregard the product colors, as they are all red now. Here's a pic of them in my 510 with KA24DE What are you running for a swaybar? (offtopic saweeee) Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 I was looking and considering the McKinney's but I'd think the through-bolt would result in transfer of motor vibration, no? I'm considering a DIY poly mount using stock 510 mounts, with rubber gutted and replaced with poly-urethane. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Some guys have done the ratsun poly mount by using a skate board or roller skate wheel Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Had to pull the pan today, and mounts were pretty tired so I attempted a pair of DIY poly mounts with stock 510 mounts and 3M Windo-Weld. Stock mount. Removed rubber isolator. Cleaned remaining rubber and added some heads of decking screws staggered. Top and bottom plates together with a bolt tack welded and scrap rubber strip to get the proper spacing--bolt and rubber strip will be removed after poly cures. Filled and packed all at once, not layered. State of the art curing room. Curing chart taken from 3M Windo-Weld Product Data Sheet. Moisture and Heat!!! "Schweddy" hot incubator Not sure how long it will take to cure. At about 24hrs (today) I removed the foil tape and they were still wet some under the tape. I'll be letting them hang out another 5 days at least. Also not sure if they will even work, but I just wanted to try what I thought would be a similar design/operation to stock motor mounts with added stiffness. I'm not keen on the thru-bolt design. However, if this don't work, then I'll probably do the McKinney mounts. Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 No good! Just ordered the McKinney Poly Mounts. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 Too soft? Didn't stick? What happened? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 I'm not keen on the thru-bolt design. However, if this don't work, then I'll probably do the McKinney mounts. I don't think the MicKinney mounts are a "through bolt" design? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 FWIW, I used the MadDat poly mounts. Similar in design to the McKinney, and definitely not a "through bolt". Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 Upon checking today I was looking to remove the strip of rubber I was using as spacer/shim, the top and bottom metal potions were easily ciming away from the poly. It really wasnt cured in the middle, but dont think curing all the way through would have done it either. And thanks for sharing about them not being a thru-bolt design. I hadnt seen that website until now. What did the mounts run? And they came with a base? They slotted like McKinneys? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 I hadnt seen that website until now. What did the mounts run? And they came with a base? I think they were $100. No base, just made my own mounts instead. Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 That ain't bad either. Mounts came in. Haven't had a chance to see or touch them yet, but looks to be a versatile design on the bottom bracket. Slotted to maintain motor tilt and offset slot to either accommodate motor further back or forward (although not too sure how good a design that is for my build) I couldn't build those brackets for $50 even if I paid myself minimum wage. :hmm: So as long as they fit, work and last, I think its a worth while buy. The ones they show on their website are yellow. Not sure if that's older version or what. Quote Link to comment
mhinkens Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 Reawakening this thread... It seems the Mckinney mounts don't exist anymore, but I have read that you can actually just use OEM 510 mounts. So it goes: - KA24de Engine - Upper Bracket from KA mount - 510 motor mount (dropped to the lower holes) - Crossmember tower mount (on a stock flipped crossmember) Is that right?! Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 (edited) 1 hour ago, mhinkens said: Reawakening this thread... It seems the Mckinney mounts don't exist anymore, but I have read that you can actually just use OEM 510 mounts. So it goes: - KA24de Engine - Upper Bracket from KA mount - 510 motor mount (dropped to the lower holes) - Crossmember tower mount (on a stock flipped crossmember) Is that right?! Yes- but didn’t work for me… for some reason the engine just wouldn’t line up for me when using the upper/lower holes. I have Mckinneys from back in the day, but quality was poor. another option is to use a 1/2” spacer between the upper mount and the engine block. Supposed to allow you to run stock 510 isolators in the stock location (not dropped down). I have the spacers but haven’t made the swap yet- here’s a link. https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=29668&start=45 Edited March 11 by demo243 Quote Link to comment
mhinkens Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 Wow! Thanks man! This helps a ton! 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 77-79 620 L20B mounts work for this. Quote Link to comment
mhinkens Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 I actually have an l20b that was swapped in already so it’s possible that I am running those already. Any reason those would be better or worse? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 They are 2" tall, The 510 L20 mounts are shorter from what I understand. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.