Lonestar Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Ok then, I've been hunting for a swap for my little 210 and looking over the CL for deals. I think I found one. A complete SR20det with 5sp for 1000. I talked to the kid and he said it was for a project he never got to. Never took off the pallet or took anything off the motor. Now should I jumping all over this or should I be using caution? I'm thinking I'll go look at it and take a compression tester with me. What ya'll think? Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Testing it before you buy is probably a good idea since the kid cant guarantee anything like an importer can. $1000 is a pretty good price though so I would mos def want to go check it out. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 ^^What he said. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 At least take a ratchet and socket to see if the engine spins if you can't do a compression check. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Try to find out where he bought it. There is an importer in Richardson (Next to Dallas), he might have gotten it there. Maybe they have some info on it. Where is this kid @? Go do a comp test on it..or a leak down test if he has a air comprssor.. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Roger that. The kid is local to me with the engine in a storage unit. He's had for a year and hlaf and got it from an importer in Canada, Tiger I beileve is what he told me. I'm talking via text so I'm finding out now. Off top of anyone's head, does anyone what the compression read out should be for an SR20det? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Roger that. The kid is local to me with the engine in a storage unit. He's had for a year and hlaf and got it from an importer in Canada, Tiger I beileve is what he told me. I'm talking via text so I'm finding out now. Off top of anyone's head, does anyone what the compression read out should be for an SR20det? 128psi is the minimum across the board 155 is standard. You can do a compression test with a battery by jumping the solenoid, I would disconnect the harness power to be safe. You really do not need any electronics for a compression test. oh and make sure it has oil in it. edit...you also do not more than a 14psi difference on any of the cylinders. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Try to find out where he bought it. There is an importer in Richardson (Next to Dallas), he might have gotten it there. Maybe they have some info on it. Where is this kid @? Go do a comp test on it..or a leak down test if he has a air comprssor.. I bought my SR from him, he is a nice guy and we did a compression test on the motor. when you have a couple of thousand in your pocket in cash he will give you a hell of a deal. I also got really nit picky with him since he had so many black tops in his warehouse. I picked the cleanest one I could find. He has had some bad feedback and I understood his troubles and he either tried to make it right or did make it right. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Don't worry about a specific compression number. The compression should be even across all four cylinders, varying by not more than 15 psi. If that's good, put a teaspoon of oil in each plug hole, spin the motor, then read the compression again. If the psi comes up, don't buy it. (this is the "wet compression" test). Quote Link to comment
Hardwyre Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Don't worry about a specific compression number. The compression should be even across all four cylinders, varying by not more than 15 psi. If that's good, put a teaspoon of oil in each plug hole, spin the motor, then read the compression again. If the psi comes up, don't buy it. (this is the "wet compression" test). This. If this does happen, offer him $200 or so and have the engine rebuilt. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Don't worry about a specific compression number. The compression should be even across all four cylinders, varying by not more than 15 psi. If that's good, put a teaspoon of oil in each plug hole, spin the motor, then read the compression again. If the psi comes up, don't buy it. (this is the "wet compression" test). This. If this does happen, offer him $200 or so and have the engine rebuilt. What does this mean per say? Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Do you mean: What does the increase in pressure indicate for a problem? If so, then it means you could have bad piston rings. Pressure should be ~equal across all cylinders as a rule. If you add a bit of oil to it and re-perform the test, and the pressure goes up... then basically the oil helped seal the pistons allowing it to compress the air in the cylinder (therefor pressure goes up). When the pressure is low to start with like that, it means that some of the air inside the cylinder on top of the piston is leaking by the rings into the space created under the piston and around the rods. Quote Link to comment
Hardwyre Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 What does this mean per say? It can mean a number of things, a lot of times it has to do with damaged/worn rings and/or cylinder walls. If you don't have fairly equal compression among the cylinders, the engine might be a bit damaged or worn out. If the compression goes up when you put the teaspoon (that's the little 5ml spoon) of oil in the cylinders and you find the compression goes up significantly, it means it's sealing better with the oil, which means the engine is worn/damaged. However, it could be something as simple as having the engine block honed and new rings put in. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Also, a few tips: If one reading is low then its just that cylinder (worn walls/piston head/rings) If two adjacent cylinders then its the HG between the cylinders Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Don't worry about a specific compression number. The compression should be even across all four cylinders, varying by not more than 15 psi. If that's good, put a teaspoon of oil in each plug hole, spin the motor, then read the compression again. If the psi comes up, don't buy it. (this is the "wet compression" test). errrm, isn't the compression going to come up when you displace air volume with the oil? Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 errrm, isn't the compression going to come up when you displace air volume with the oil? No, I get what they are saying, say if you got 114 p.s.i or so in the cylinders while dry, then by adding a teaspoon of oil and now your getting 155 because the oil sealed the gaps in the rings due them being worn or damaged. At least this what I'm getting. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 No, I get what they are saying, say if you got 114 p.s.i or so in the cylinders while dry, then by adding a teaspoon of oil and now your getting 155 because the oil sealed the gaps in the rings due them being worn or damaged. At least this what I'm getting. I understand that, but displacing compressible air with the teaspoon of incompressible oil is going to raise the compression if the motor is good, too. So if the motor reads evenly and you put oil in it, then it should again read evenly, but at a higher compression regardless of its condition...no? Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 I understand that, but displacing compressible air with the teaspoon of incompressible oil is going to raise the compression if the motor is good, too. So if the motor reads evenly and you put oil in it, then it should again read evenly, but at a higher compression regardless of its condition...no? Point. Just have to wait for the guru's to chime in on this one. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 I understand that, but displacing compressible air with the teaspoon of incompressible oil is going to raise the compression if the motor is good, too. So if the motor reads evenly and you put oil in it, then it should again read evenly, but at a higher compression regardless of its condition...no? Also, I'd add a little oil to the cylinders anyway.. if it hasn't been run in a year or so, you don't want to spin them over dry. Any engine I get that hasn't been run in a year or more, I add a little oil to lubricate the cylinders and/or free up the rings anyway. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Yes, liquid incompressible therefore psi would go up regardless, but the amount is negligible. There is an obvious increase in cylinder PSI with worn rings producing blowback. Thats the reason that you use such a small amount of oil to perform a wet compression test; just enough to lubricate the rings and seal. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 You forgot this part: put a teaspoon of oil in each plug hole, spin the motor, then read the compression Cranking the engine spreads the oil and will force excess oil back out the plug holes. So it won't cause the readings to go higher -- unless the rings are worn. Try it on your good engine before you go look at the one in question. If the rings are worn, an SR20DET is still worth more than $200. What will new rings cost? Maybe $400. Just depends on if you want to fix it. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Aye, I'm trying to get with the kid and going out tomorrow to look at the setup and test the compression on it. You guys have been a big help. By the way, does anyone know the size of the socket to for the SR20 crank bolt? Quote Link to comment
Hardwyre Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 You forgot this part: Cranking the engine spreads the oil and will force excess oil back out the plug holes. So it won't cause the readings to go higher -- unless the rings are worn. Try it on your good engine before you go look at the one in question. If the rings are worn, an SR20DET is still worth more than $200. What will new rings cost? Maybe $400. Just depends on if you want to fix it. Zilla is correct about the price. Even with bad rings, it's worth more than I was thinking. I still think in terms of small block chevy's when it comes to prices on things since that's where I've had my attention for the past 16 years. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 28mm Oy, been looking for a 28mm and I can't find one! Looks like I'll be going with the stanard sizes then. Yeah, even if the block is junk, breaking it all and selling the parts would be well enough to buy it whole. Just got to wait and see. I head out there today to check it out. I'll let ya'll know what I find. Thanks for all the help guys. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.