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Header clearance issues: 620


metalmonkey47

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How have you guys gotten around them? I'm trying to get mine together now, but trying to fit the header I've found no way to force the header down under the truck. About the only way I've found that the header is going to fit is if I pull the torsion bar and mount the header first.

 

The collector is almost too wide to even fit between the engine and the frame blink.gif

 

 

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I know what you're gonna say. The header won't make any more power on such a stock L20B. Wellllll, sometime in the near future I'd like to see SU's and a cam. I got this one for free, so I'd like to use it if possible.

Edited by metalmonkey47
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Most long tube headers are for cars not trucks as the torsion bar is in the way.

 

or if a early L16 exhaust manifold is used one still needs the correct Y pipe made to clear the torsion bar. Examble a 521 Y pipe or early 620 pipe and thats on the shorter l16/18. cant verify on the l20 as it would be raised about 3/4 of a inch. This header if designed or a L16/18 spec will or could hit the floor of the truck also

 

most people get the short tube headers in this case you when you make a colloector pip you bend i to clear the torsion bar

 

personally best to dump THAT header I would run that cast iron one and just leave it if it was already in there.

Those black headers rust in about 2 months unless you ceramic coat them

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Most long tube headers are for cars not trucks as the torsion bar is in the way.

 

damndamndamn

 

I was thinking about that.... mis-information is a bitch!

 

Guess I'm gonna go work out a new solution for this PITA.

 

 

 

 

 

I was told that the header was for the truck, since it wouldn't clear the steering box on the cars. Maybe it was backwards thought. blink.gif

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just bag it and get rid of the torsion bars, problem solved :P

 

 

let me know if you want to sell the manifold

 

I'll trade you the manifold for a bag setup laugh.gif

 

 

Seriously, I'll give the manifold to you if I can get this stupid header to mount.

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this looks close to the header i had on my truck when i bought it..

 

dad said that he only got it in by unbolting the driver side motor mount, and also taking the torsion bar out..

 

have fun buddy..

 

i had to cut the header to pieces when i took it off.. stick with the manifold.. it flows just as good, possibly even better than a header...

 

dont plan on lowering the truck anymore with that longutbe either.. that was the demise of my header..

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Too bad we live 3 million miles from each other. I have a shorty with a 2 1/4 downpipe on my 521, I would trade you in a heartbeat. I just want to cut a long tube up and make a tri Y, so by the time it gets the torsion bar/ frame, its two 1 3/4 pipes. Then merge it into one , under the truck.

 

Oh shit, I just gave away how to fix it. Make two collecters, put #1 and #4 together, and #2 and #3 together. twist the pipes 90 degrees as they go down so they clear the mess below. Bend under the truck and use another collecter to make it one again. Great design for torque. Now look at an L16/L18 manifold, It's pretty much the same thing. Just a bit shorter.

 

 

It really is hard to beat the stock mani. Unless your trying to shave off every ounce of weight, like me. please let me know if you decide to sell the longtube.

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As others have stated, the stock manifolds (especially the one you have there) flow quite well. The 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust configuration is about the best for exhaust flow as well. You should have longer down tubes though before they feed into the single exhaust pipe. Plus they last forever and just look cool. :P

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I have that header on my 521... It wasn't easy and if I had it to do over again I wouldn't do it... I have an L18 and coil overs in the front... I also had to notch the cross member about an 1 - 1 1/2" and take off the E-brake bracket attached to the frame(starting to research a newer E-brake system)...

 

I like it now, but wouldn't do it...

 

A couple of pics...

 

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000_0003.jpg

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