Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

54 Good

About haubstr

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/03/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Olivehurst, Calif.
  • Cars
    '15 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '05 Jeep Unlimited, '14 Nissan Sentra, and '69 521
  • Interests
    Jeeps, Datsuns, and Computers
  • Occupation
    US Air Force (Retired)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I ordered a new connector from Wiring Specialties but I got it and it was disassembled and had no wire with it. What size wire should I use 12 14 or 16 gauge?
  2. Perfect! I'm going out in a few to hook it up. Thank You guys for the direction.
  3. Don't know if this is the right section but I thought I would try. My swap is almost done but I can't find anywhere what to do with the alternator wiring. In particular the wires from the 521 alternator T connector and the plug on the back of the KA alternator. This truck already had the internally regulated alternator. If there is a link and hopefully pics that would be great. 521 T connector - Yellow and white with black stripe Ka plug - White and white with red stripe I only ask because the last swap I did the battery always drained and I don't know if it was charging or not. My aftermarket gauge showed it was but ??? Thanks in advance Haubstr
  4. I understand "The 521 engine bay is approximately 5' longer from the firewall to the radiator support frame than 520s." But is the only difference between L521 and PL521 engine bay the addition of extra metal for the J13 radiator on the core support? Does anyone have a Pic of this extra metal that can be removed? I am leaning towards putting the L engine back in. Thanks again.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to see if it was doable or I needed a new frame because of the width in the engine bay. I still may do the KA swap. I have running/driving swap under my belt already so that is a possibility. The body on this truck is very straight with only top rust. Came with a bed full of extra parts. I'll take pics as soon as I can, Its at my dads house two hours away. I'll be bringing to my house in a couple of weeks once I clear space out in my garage. Just bought a house and need to empty more boxes out of the garage. Jamie
  6. Bought a 69 521 that came with a J13. The motor was gone and the motor mounts on the frame were cutoff. Is the frame the same up front as the PL521 with a L16 and just the motor mounts on the frame different? If so I'm looking to buy. Thanks Jamie
  7. I used the Dime Quarterly Volume 9 Issue 3 for my S14 trans to run on my 521 speedo... HERE
  8. Here are a couple of crappy pics I just took... I have a Z20S in my '70 510... It looks like stock L series mounts maybe... This engine setup I believe is out of a 79-80 510... In one pic you can see where the hood prop was removed and a notch was put in the brace for the air cleaner. Message me if you want more pics...
  9. What kind of fitment issues? I have a Z20S in my 510 and it look like it should be there. It is gutless. The only issue is the brace on the hood had to be notched for the weber air cleaner and I had to install the hood shocks. If you have any questions or want any pics let me know.
  10. haubstr

    Haubstr 521

    The radiator is just an aluminum 3-row for a 521 from EBAY but it keeps real cool so far. I'm waiting for summer to make sure. The upper radiator hose number is AC Delco 24155L Big - come on I know the Titans are gay but.......lol I'm on the hunt for something new now that clears the calipers.
  11. haubstr

    Haubstr 521

    Big- That is a good idea. It is a tight fit between the water pump and the two 8" puller fans. I'm gonna take a look this weekend....
  12. haubstr

    Haubstr 521

    True on all accounts... Used BEEBANI disc brake brackets front and rear as well as his coil over brackets. I did use Blackmarkit KA motormounts and trans mount. Everything I have used has been well built and would use again in a heart beat. Thanks again guys
  13. Nice 720 project... What wheels are those?
  14. I checked the ground and it is at the same spot to the dash where my other autometer gauges are grounded and they work fine. I did take off the back of the tach and set the dip switches to 4 cylinder but I will recheck tomorrow. Is there another wire I can run the green tach signal wire to? coil? Thanks
  15. I have been looking mostly on the 240SX forums on putting in an aftermarket tach. From everything I read the only wire in question is the Green signal wire from the tach. The yellow/red wire at the ECU is the signal wire according to the FSM. My tach jumps while I'm cranking but nothing after it starts... Any ideas?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.