Diff rookie H190 centers

[copydat]

Hi,

 

Wanting to swap out my center in my H190 on the 520. I have a detroit locker for it. What I need to know is how difficult it actually is. I have rang around a few shops and got quotes for a drive in drive out sitch as I don't have the means/space to take out the solid axle and take to the shop. I hate paying labour for something that appears to be reasonably 'doable'. I simply want to swap out the centres, the locker splines according to the info on here should match the existing axles. Can I just remove the back plate, shift/move the shafts, unbolt the original center, replace with locker, not bother with replacing bearings etc etc, clean, gasket goo, fluid and that is it? I'm affraid I'll open it and not be able to identify a particular part and then it is stuck there half done. The coin they are asking is reasonable, with a check done, new fluids and they will replace anything that needs it (that is extra$$). I'm not so concerned with alignment/angle etc at this stage as it will need to be redone once the turbo engine gets in there. I just don't want a 500 dollar paper weight sitting around.

 

Any advice help, pics is appreciated. I'll let you know if your tech diff talk starts going over my head! :)

[flatcat19]

Lockers are sooo not street-able.

 

You packin enough power to be concerned about your 1 tire fire?

 

 

BUT-

if hell-bent on going this route...not hard.

Maybe 30 bolts total?

Providing prices quoted might help us decipher which route you should go.

 

How much exp do you have doing anything mildly difficult with a wrench?

[ggzilla]

Is it a Detroit Locker from Nissan?

 

If it specifically for an H190, go for it. Detroit Locker is not a center section, it replaces the differential part of the center section. It is setup just like a regular CRP/R&P. But you might want to have the shop measure the locking action to make sure it's working correctly.

 

If you have a complete center section already assembled with the locker, just bolt it in, there's no precision work needed.

[copydat]

I throw and collect spanners - I know more about motorcycles than Dattos but I've owned a few Dats and worked on all of them. I rely heavily on my 510 mates with mods and transplants but I get in there. I would be very capable of doing the work, I've just never seen inside a H190 before. AUD been quoted 180 with diff out of car right up to 700+ from a 4x4 shop to drive in drive out. Most reasonable was 385 for drive in drive out with risk of replacing parts needed (bearings I spose which wouldn't be a bad idea).

I know lockers are naughty & shit for street but at the moment I'm running a L18 on 14x8s which I can't see packing a huge punch nor risk looping it on a roundabout - it is hard enough to drive as is but like I mentioned - I want this part in, not out sitting on a shelf. The CA should pump out some horses once in. I don't daily it and when done and finished I will track it from time to time.

 

So I'm staring down the barrel of roughly $400 job just to get the locker in..... making it almost a $1000 diff without rotors and discs! Hence why I'd like to get this done myself if possible.

[copydat]

Is it a Detroit Locker from Nissan?

 

If it specifically for an H190, go for it. Detroit Locker is not a center section, it replaces the differential part of the center section. It is setup just like a regular CRP/R&P. But you might want to have the shop measure the locking action to make sure it's working correctly.

 

If you have a complete center section already assembled with the locker, just bolt it in, there's no precision work needed.

 

 

Yes OG Nissan Locker. Your advice sounds like the ticket! Thanks!

[jesusno2]

Pop the ring gear off the stock carrier. bolt the ring gear on the locking diff re install. get a magnetic dial indicator and check the backlash if ya need more or less you'll need to press the bearings off the carrier and use more or less shims depending on which way to shim the carrier to add or take away play. It's not to hard but will take time and a few special tools. What I like to do is press the old bearings off and grind the ID of them so i dont gotta press on and off bearings when trying to get the backlash set right You will have to replace them cause normally you cant get them off without tweaking them.

[ggzilla]

been quoted 180 with diff out of car

I'd be tempted by that. Certainly i wouldn't do a drive-in.

 

Four bolts on each axle, pull them out a few inches, then unbolt the center section. It's just like a Ford 9".

[copydat]

out of the car means entire diff..... 180 + taxes is close to 200 then I gotta get it there and put it back in etc. Basically I don't have the space to get that done anyway. My garage is tiny it is like being trapped in a tetris game. I think I could give it a crack - without the measuring of shims etc thanks for the info jesusno2. If I can just unbolt the center and bolt in the new one - fill with fluid then take it to a shop to have them maybe scope out the clearances that should be ok no?

[ggzilla]

nah, they do the clearances on the diff center only.

 

Leaving the axle housing in the vehicle means you don't need much room to work on it.

 

when you refill the diff housing, be sure to use the gear lube recommended by Nissan.

[wayno]

I want/need to see the other side of this part. I have a H190 apart in my garage, and it baffles me that I see no shims, or any type of ajustment behind the bearings, it's like the pinion gear is the only thing to ajust.

This is my detriot locker, but it is a complete unit, which is easy to install.

[copydat]

thanks ggzilla!

 

 

This is also helpful.

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128312.pdf

[copydat]

wayno - I'll take a pic tonight after work and post it up for ya. Thanks for those pics, makes it way less daunting! :)

[copydat]

I want/need to see the other side of this part. I have a H190 apart in my garage, and it baffles me that I see no shims, or any type of ajustment behind the bearings, it's like the pinion gear is the only thing to ajust.

This is my detriot locker, but it is a complete unit, which is easy to install.

 

 

Wayno - here you go. I took another look and read through those installation instructions and it seems even more daunting now.....

 

[copydat]

Pop the ring gear off the stock carrier. bolt the ring gear on the locking diff re install. get a magnetic dial indicator and check the backlash if ya need more or less you'll need to press the bearings off the carrier and use more or less shims depending on which way to shim the carrier to add or take away play. It's not to hard but will take time and a few special tools. What I like to do is press the old bearings off and grind the ID of them so i dont gotta press on and off bearings when trying to get the backlash set right You will have to replace them cause normally you cant get them off without tweaking them.

 

 

The below is what you are talking about right? The shims off the original bearing cone. That is likely to be where I could get tripped up.......

 

[copydat]

So what I've gathered from my research is that I can replace 6 with my locker ( someone please tell me if 14 & 15 go on the new centre ) I also understand from the installation notes that it is critical to mark the position of 13 when bolted onto new centre for reassembly. Is this true? The rest 'seems' reasonably simple...... however I don't know what I'm going to do with the shims? I don't have anything to go off. When and where do I measure the position (left and right) of centre? If I can manage to get them off without ruining them should I just put them back exactly how I found them? I can get my hands on some quality old school bearing pulleys which I can tell will be key.

 

Any further advice is appreciated.

 

[ggzilla]

The locker replaces 6-12 -- the gear case.

 

Once you get the locker bolted in, then you need to verify the contact pattern of 13 (ring & pinion) with prussian blue. But that depends on the shims ...

 

Personally I'd let the shop do it, if they will guarantee the results.

[datzenmike]

Must be 29 spline for trucks.

[hang_510]

I throw and collect spanners

 

Most reasonable was 385 for drive in drive out with risk of replacing parts needed (bearings I spose which wouldn't be a bad idea).

 

making it almost a $1000 diff without rotors and discs! Hence why I'd like to get this done myself if possible.

i swapped in an LSD in my R160 and it wasn't too bad. first time ever doing one.

 

i took it in to a shop after a u-joint failure and was glad to see my work had been satisfactory.

 

for the time & effort, id take it to a shop.

 

 

new bearings shouldn't be more than ~$15 ea, worth it now instead of doing it again.

 

 

 

 

or i'd be happy to save you the install effort and take it off your hands.

[copydat]

 

or i'd be happy to save you the install effort and take it off your hands.

 

Hahaha!

 

Thanks for the tips..... I'll be keeping it.

[]2eDeYe]

Lockers are sooo not street-able.

 

I think you are confusing welded or spooled rear with a detroit.

 

A detroit locker allows one wheel to turn at a different speed than the other in corners. Sure it's clicky, but still pretty streetable. :)