datsunon40s Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 has anyone done an SR20DET swap in a 620??? I searched and found nothing. I have been seriously concidering this swap for a long time after I rode in a friends 240sx. Not to mention that the most power I have heard of an N/A L series motor making Is around 240hp at the crank and I would like a little more than that!! Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 wouldn't be any good in a 'wheeler Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 240 crank hp in an L-series?? :D 140 crank hp would be a LOT for a 4-cyl L-series.... Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 wouldn't be any good in a 'wheeler not for my wheeler for this truck besides the only thing good for a wheeler is a toyota!!!!!!1 Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 240 crank hp in an L-series?? :D 140 crank hp would be a LOT for a 4-cyl L-series.... I was just looking at hte crazy engine combo thread and there are guys on there saying 148 to the wheels. Which is about 200 crank HP? Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 I was just looking at hte crazy engine combo thread and there are guys on there saying 148 to the wheels. Which is about 200 crank HP? My buddy Pats wagon Made 150 HP and 151 TQ at the wheels out of a LZ2.2 and I would say Troys long rod LZ2.3 is making around 170 or so at the wheels no problem. the stock SR20DET is only making about 230 at the crank stock but thats in stock form :D it seems skys the limit as long as you have the money to keep droppin into a SR Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 has anyone seen one in a 620?? Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 My buddy Pats wagon Made 150 HP and 151 TQ at the wheels out of a LZ2.2 and I would say Troys long rod LZ2.3 is making around 170 or so at the wheels no problem. the stock SR20DET is only making about 230 at the crank stock but thats in stock form :D it seems skys the limit as long as you have the money to keep droppin into a SR what are the ingredients for an LZ2.2???? and an LZ2.3????? do you drive your rig every day?? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 mix well :D http://www.the620.com/620tech.htm = L-Series Specs & Mods Quote Link to comment
fiveNdime Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 It kinda depends on what you would want it for. I would recommend a newer motor for the reliability factor. I know my L motors have never let me down but it seems the way of the future gets to us eventually in some form. I would personally boost a KA and build more power then the SR and have a motor you could pull from a junk yard or get parts at any mom and pop parts store. On the other hand if you just want a toy to kick ass once in a while I would build a high revving 200+ HP L series......and the only one I would do it too would be the Z22 motor from the 81 or so pickup. You can bore them out for the KA pistons and still keep cool. I have a mildly built Z22 in my 521 pickup and it goes very well. Obviously depends on how much money you have. The Built L will cost almost as much as a KA swap, and the SR well, you can double that price. That is if you don't want to do a hash job, which isn't my style. Almost forgot......scrape that purple tint off the 620.....eewww Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 Almost forgot......scrape that purple tint off the 620.....eewww havent got that far :lol: but I agree! OK ill tell you what I want to do with the truck and you tell me the best way to achieve it.. I want a motor that I can burn tire through 2nd gear and catch 3rd gear tire on dry pavement , but still drive on the street . It doesnt have to drive very well, but drive none the less I intend to do entry level drifting with this truck Quote Link to comment
808DA6 Posted April 9, 2008 Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 Here we go....... Shes not a 620, but its smaller. Of course, you can't see how much the tranny tunnel has been modified, but can't be that bad. There's also two more pretty detailed 521 SR build threads here. -Brian Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 9, 2008 Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 Cant you just do a sr20de and be happy? Its around 1500 for the whole front clip.... Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 Cant you just do a sr20de and be happy? Its around 1500 for the whole front clip.... what do those come out of??? Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted April 9, 2008 Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 180sx from japan i believe....look here... http://forums.nicoclub.com/ Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 9, 2008 Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 Sr20de max hp "165 PS (163 hp/121 kW) through the use of Nissan's VTC variable valve timing system in the S14 and S15 Nissan Silvia." From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SR_engine KA24DE max hp: "157 hp (112 kW) @ 5600 rpm # Max torque: 160 ft Quote Link to comment
fiveNdime Posted April 9, 2008 Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 L-Series.....its as simple as that in my opinion. It doesn't sound like you want it for driving hundreds of miles a day. The nice thing about the L series is that its a direct bolt in and it weighs MUCH less then all the swaps! I know of a good guy that can build one and has a few race motors out there in some 510's that hold track records... Quote Link to comment
808DA6 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 .... it weighs MUCH less then all the swaps! Ummm. No disrespect dood, but the iron block L outweighs a turbo SR by almost 50lbs.. From an economic standpoint, it is very realistic to get 35+ MPG from an SR. From a consistency standpoint, SR's (along w. many other good swaps) are fuel injected. No swapping jets each season. 4x the life on your plugs. From a maintenance standpoint, oil every 3K, gas and you're good. From a support angle, L parts are getting rare and expensive. I'm not saying the SR is the only way to go, BUT there are many great swaps out there that may be more expensive initially, but will save tons of cash and headaches in a long run. -Brian Oh, and I'm not totally against the L. Don't get me wrong. I run one and am building one right now. They're nostalgic. BUT we have options. Good ones. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 ka is the only way :D Quote Link to comment
datsunon40s Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 ka is the only way :D someone told me that that there is limited aftermarket support for the KA is this true or is this dood an idiot?? Quote Link to comment
fiveNdime Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 NO disrespect, but you are wrong my friend! Take a look. Then just throw the transmission in to the spectrum and you have even more weight added, oh and don't forget the harness, fuel pump, extra fuel lines, ETC, and fighting with that torsion bar setup which is just one of those things your going to fight with. The SR is quite possibly the most waist of time in my opinion. We all know whats going to happen years from now when those things start breaking down. Where you going to find a part??? The L series is not rare and far from extinct, Plus you can build a very reliable 200 hp out of them. The KA market isn't there yet, but just wait till little JDM fanboys find out that boosting the KA is a much better investment. datsunon40s, its up to you obviously. Your going to get guys that swear by the SR, KA, and L, but in my opinion its the question of whats going to be the best for the situation. A12 87 kg 192 lbs A14 93 kg 205 lbs L18 118 kg 260 lbs CA18ET 118 kg 260 lbs QR25DE 121 kg 267 lbs CA18DET 128 kg 282 lbs SR20DE 139 kg 306 lbs SR20DET 149 kg 328 lbs FJ20ET 166 kg 366 lbs Z20 157 kg 346 lbs KA24DE 167 kg 368 lbs (estimated) VG30 166 kg 360 lbs VQ35 alloy engine 142 kg 313 lbs VG30DETT 277 kg 510-610 lbs Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 The SR is great if you only want to buy parts and bolt them together. No one ever got fired for buying SR (so to speak). For the rest of us, there is no substitute for cubic inches. A larger motor will out-drag a smaller one when tuned similarly. In a few years, as more Frontiers hit the wreckers, the QR25DE will be a great swap choice compared to KA24: More power, lighter weight. Lighter than SR. More powerful than KA24. For turbo, the SR20DET is designed for turboing, while the KA24 is not. But for naturally aspirated, the KA has a big advantage (about 500cc advantage...) Quote Link to comment
fiveNdime Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 YEP, I was going to say QR25DE which makes I believe 200HP NA stock, but the only ones that will work are in the 2005 and up frontiers, I believe. Does anyone know what those are going for in the yard? Almost forgot to say that the QR will be much lighter then the SR due to new casting methods. Quote Link to comment
MrRobatoGato Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 http://www.personal.psu.edu/cap259/2ndpage.htm googled KA and found this Idk if it will help any the guys seems a bit partial to the KA side of things.. Quote Link to comment
suprafast98 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Yea, i am gonna have to agree with ggzilla here. if your looking for n/a stick with a l18 or a ka motor. if you wanna boost, buy a motor designed for boost. dont boost a ka cuz ur gonna have issues sooner or later. swap the sr20 and leave it STOCK!!! ok mabey a bov and an exhaust is ok but not bigger injectors or cams or bigger turbos or anything. if you leave it stock it will be fine.when you F*ck with the motor shit starts to go bad and you have problems. Agian its up to you and to which route you wanna go, then from there deside which motor. all in all it up to you. Quote Link to comment
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