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Rustina510 wagoon


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Tried starting the car this morning and just got the dreaded click. Dead battery... Jumped it and took it to auto zone.

 

They said its totally dead. Even at full charge it wasn't getting any cca "cold cranking amps" so I had to pick up a new battery. 80$ I wasn't planning on spending, so I can't afford the new strut inserts tell late October now:(

 

Looks like I'll be running the old strut inserts or see if my billsteins will work that are currently in the car now. Major bummer

 

5AD7F256-0081-476D-BB62-2D0F745170B4-218-000000172D3A47E5.jpg

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Tried starting the car this morning and just got the dreaded click. Dead battery... Jumped it and took it to auto zone.

 

They said its totally dead. Even at full charge it wasn't getting any cca "cold cranking amps" so I had to pick up a new battery. 80$ I wasn't planning on spending, so I can't afford the new strut inserts tell late October now:(

 

Looks like I'll be running the old strut inserts or see if my billsteins will work that are currently in the car now. Major bummer

 

5AD7F256-0081-476D-BB62-2D0F745170B4-218-000000172D3A47E5.jpg

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just a heads up laecon is clearnacing the pumkin area, not notching the rail.... if u notch or channel the body rail u will need to way raise the seat and floor.... the tunnel would need lots of raising too....if anything u could gain almost a inch by removing the snubber spot on the rail... but u would still need to raise the pumpki area another inch that may also mean humping out the trunk floor area.....no homo

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just a heads up laecon is clearnacing the pumkin area, not notching the rail.... if u notch or channel the body rail u will need to way raise the seat and floor.... the tunnel would need lots of raising too....if anything u could gain almost a inch by removing the snubber spot on the rail... but u would still need to raise the pumpki area another inch that may also mean humping out the trunk floor area.....no homo

 

Er no. Its all under the seat. The cargo floor is fine. The first thing to hit the floor is the back of the driveshaft, oh and the diff bump stop, I trimmed mine since I was sitting on it at my ride height.

 

Here is a picture, kinda hard to tell exactly where it is, but you can see a greasy streak where my u-joint has thrown excess grease. and just forward of that is where the driveshaft hits the floor.

 

I reckon if you take out the diff bump stop, and raise the floor (you will need to notch the rear seat pan, but the seat still works), everything will be happy again. Just look at green goons thread.

 

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actually its err yes...... you are talking about clearancing the pumpkin which is the center of the rear end.....meaning you would have to raise the floor above it ....under the seat pan.... when i first read rustinas post i thought he meant notching the body structual rail then yes u would end up creating so much room that your rear end pumpkin would now protrude into the rear cargo area..(way lowar.... but clearly after re reading rustina post i misunderstood, much like u did my post....saying how u planned to raise the floor under the seat allowing clearance for the pumpkin for more low....i am using the seat pan u sold me and putting a new cushion on it from a later model car....which would allow me more room for the low... but i am not gonna be greedy with my goon and follow the suit green goon and u are showing....even with link my goon out back i wont go more than removing the bump stop pad on the frame rail if i can go lower with out getting into the rear cargo area.....i wanna a flat rear floor....my seat plans for the rear welll that has alot fo figuring to figure....shoot jacob u could cut another 3/4 inch off that snubber ...but as u noted im sure it would just sound liike home less peopple beating on your floor .....from the drive shaft hitting the tunnel...

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