single or dual points distributor?

[datzenmike]

'79 EI dizzy for sale.

[Dirttrack510]

I don't understand the beef with points... I've ran points in all my old cars, including my current race car. I've never had any problems with em'. Points have a huge advantage over electronic ignition if your charging system quits. You can drive a long way on almost no battery power, ei will stop working much faster, when the voltage gets low.

[datzenmike]

I agree but the alt. seldom fails and the points need attention, even if all you do is inspect them. The EI you set and forget. Here's what to do. Get one and the matching coil for it and run it for year. If you want to after that, sell it. You'll have no trouble getting rid of it, but I'm betting you'll not let it go once you try it.

[Guest kamakazi620]

Points belong in a museum or a garbage can.

 

If you have points,they "bounce".When they "bounce"-dwell changes.No way around this.Your call.

Very true,I've been running a single points dizzy for 2 years.I'm on my 2nd set of points,The only true advantage is if a nuke goes off my points will still run my engine while you EI dizzy guys will have melted circuits from the EMP

[banzai510(hainz)]

Points have a huge advantage over electronic ignition if your charging system quits. You can drive a long way on almost no battery power

 

Pertronix draws the same current as its the stock coil and ballast in there less than 4 amps

 

the matchbox needs more as its double or triple the current draw 17amps

[Dirttrack510]

I do have an ei dizzy, but i don't know how to make it work. It's not a matchbox, it's a little bigger.

[Dirttrack510]

It has a red and a green wire, but i don't know what coil etc. I need.

[Dirttrack510]

Here are a couple photos of the only electronic Dizzy I have. It's not a matchbox, but I don't know what it is. :unsure: I know it fits my L series, but that's about all I know and I don't wanna burn it up by accident if it's any good. :(

 

 

[GreaseMonky]

sorry not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a matchbox distributor in my dirt track 610, can I use a aftermarket coil, and a MSD box with it?? also since where on ignition systems, whats a good plug to run, its a l20B, single carbed, and a U67 head

[Laecaon]

I do have an ei dizzy, but i don't know how to make it work. It's not a matchbox, it's a little bigger.

 

You have the early remote igniter unit. It wires in like this:

 

 

That is a GM module, about $10 bucks at parts stores. It that fails its almost as cheap as points... Im not sure what year GM vehicles to ask about at the store. Hopefully someone can chime in.

 

Coil should be just about any coil for a EI Nissan car. MSD Blaster 2 should work too.

 

Hope that helps. I kinda want to find one the distributors like you have.

[mklotz70]

You'll want to put some kind of heat sink on that HEI module. I sent paccoast the info a few years ago and he did a really nice how-to on installing the remote igniter style....if you need more info the the diagram above, you might pm him for a link to his write up.

[EricJB]

LOL I'm so old, I have a Mallory dual point for an L series. If the rules specifically state you have to run points, no way around it, Get a dual point and wire it up for longer dwell time (hotter high rpm spark) like Datzen Mike explained. Nothing worse than a high rpm miss.

 

If you can get away with factory EI, get 2 and have a spare to just drop in and bolt down. Have it all set up beforehand so you dont have to mess with the timing. Plug and play. I will bet you will never need it though.

 

Interesting about the pertronix/ ballast resister thing. I have been running those since the early 90's. Never really felt like I got a straight answer. Instructions say yes, Reps at pertronix say no. I have 2 now , and niether one has a ballast resister on it. The one in the 521 is almost 18 yrs old and has at least 150,000 miles on it. Its in the third vehicle and now triggers an MSD 6al and blaster2 coil.

 

The VW one was in my street/strip bug for many years and is now in the sandrail. It also triggers a blaster2 coil. Points in the sand dont work. 1 grain of sand between them will kill it. I now change the cap and rotor, and "service" the igntor with a blow gun.Usualy covered in sand. Maybe I just got a couple of old tough ones, but they seem bullet proof to me. I did have the rivets come loose on the base once, (1993) They gave me a new one.

 

Disclaimer If you kill yours by dumping the ballast resister, dont blame me