L16 oil pump - gasket?

[revolt510]

The timing gear on the oil pump of my L16 was installed so my timing is 180 out (basically #4 acts as #1 piston).

I like things to be right so I want to pull the pump and correct it. The only mention of a gasket I can find is the one internal to the pump if you disassemble it.

Is there a gasket between the pump and block I need to get?

 

thanks

[DanielC]

Yes, there is a gasket.

[datzenmike]

Nissan # 15066 21001 about $0.50

[banzai510(hainz)]

So to get this running you moved # 4 to # 1 right??????? Well that what a SMART person would do. about 30 sec job . Done!!!!!!!!!

 

Who cares its working.!!!!!!!!

 

It will still be in the 11:28 position when its lined up to TDC. No body will know.

 

dont waist your time.

[Jayden71]

So to get this running you moved # 4 to # 1 right??????? Well that what a SMART person would do. about 30 sec job . Done!!!!!!!!!

 

Who cares its working.!!!!!!!!

 

It will still be in the 11:28 position when its lined up to TDC. No body will know.

 

dont waist your time.

+1 ;)

[revolt510]

So to get this running you moved # 4 to # 1 right??????? Well that what a SMART person would do. about 30 sec job . Done!!!!!!!!!

 

Who cares its working.!!!!!!!!

 

It will still be in the 11:28 position when its lined up to TDC. No body will know.

 

dont waist your time.

 

I'm an engineer by profession - my ego screams that its a half-ass job, so I can't rest until I put it right. :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dodnt get it . the timming plate and everything wont know the difference.

If you go to a L20 b Dist the rotor might point the otherway anyways compared to a L16 but the spindal will still be in the 11.28 position which is correct.

 

Thats why I say Line up to TDC then where the rotor locks down at that will be assigned the #1 plug position.

 

Felpro sells a front cover kit that has the oil pump gaskets in there. plus other gaskets. good to get this anyways.

O rileys carries these gasket kits. upperkit/lowerkit/ front cover kit

[Big Schlink]

For me its not what others know but what I do that drives me crazy, so I understand your pain.

 

 

[datsunaholic]

Actually, it could be that it's not your oil pump/dist spindle that's 180 out, it could be your camshaft. Just to drive the engineer in you nuts.

 

(note: That actually is the same thing. Changing one or the other will solve the problem, because it's those 2 that can get 180 from each other. The crank is in the same place irregardless)

[banzai510(hainz)]

Doug you sure you can put a cam in off 180 if crank is TDC? I think it will spin motor then lock up on a valve.

[revolt510]

I dodnt get it . the timming plate and everything wont know the difference.

If you go to a L20 b Dist the rotor might point the otherway anyways compared to a L16 but the spindal will still be in the 11.28 position which is correct.

 

Thats why I say Line up to TDC then where the rotor locks down at that will be assigned the #1 plug position.

 

Felpro sells a front cover kit that has the oil pump gaskets in there. plus other gaskets. good to get this anyways.

O rileys carries these gasket kits. upperkit/lowerkit/ front cover kit

 

But "I" know the difference! I bought my 510 and the engine had been newly rebuilt, so I got an elec. dizzy, thru it in and couldn't get her going. Realized its 180 out. I know my thinking isn't completely rational, but being particular the #1 piston should be the #1 piston. Won't take long to do anyway..

[datsunaholic]

Doug you sure you can put a cam in off 180 if crank is TDC? I think it will spin motor then lock up on a valve.

 

Nope. If you turn the cam 180, the crank will have turned a full 360, so it'll be in exactly the same place. The cam and distributor are timed together. On the L-series it's not visibly obvious because the dist is turned by a worm gear off the crank, but most other engines the dist is connected 1:1 with the camshaft. On my E15S the dist is driven directly off the camshaft, no gearing at all.

 

Now, whether or not you can turn the cam (independently) of the crank with the engine at TDC without hitting a valve is another matter. You CAN rotate the crank (with cam still connected) off of TDC then disconnect the cam and roll it 180 then reattach. Of course, it's a whole lot easier to reposition the drive spindle, or easier yet to just swap the wires around.

[datsunaholic]

But "I" know the difference! I bought my 510 and the engine had been newly rebuilt, so I got an elec. dizzy, thru it in and couldn't get her going. Realized its 180 out. I know my thinking isn't completely rational, but being particular the #1 piston should be the #1 piston. Won't take long to do anyway..

 

#1 would still be #1. In fact, if you put a timing light on it it would still read even with the wires rotated 180. Heck, with a 4-cyl, you can time it using #4 if you wanted to, it'll fire exactly the same place on the timing marks.

[flatcat19]

I'm an engineer by profession - my ego screams that its a half-ass job, so I can't rest until I put it right. :D

 

And that ego didn't scream to call a professional parts person to have it put right by finding the gasket?

Seems half-assed to this amateur.

 

Or engineer yourself one with gasket paper?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Revolt

I bet the spindal is in correct .

 

@ TDC on L motors

a L16 dist rotor will USAULLY point in front

a L20 dist rotor points to the rear in most cases.

part 6 of my vid shows a L20 dizzy. shows install of a L16 and it will point up front

 

 

I had a 2 L18 Mitsibishi types and they pointed 2 different ways. I just swapped the leads 180 put 1 where 4 was and start over 1 3 4 2 .

 

I think your over engineering this. But OK

[flatcat19]

Touche.

<_<

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

;)

[revolt510]

And that ego didn't scream to call a professional parts person to have it put right by finding the gasket?

Seems half-assed to this amateur.

 

Or engineer yourself one with gasket paper?

 

 

I don't follow your question. I have a clymer manual, haynes manual, and L-series engine rebuild manual, none of them mention a gasket between the pump and block - only a gasket for rebuilding the pump. Rockauto doesn't list that gasket. I purchased a complete engine gasket kit a while back, which doesn't list a mounting gasket on the box.

 

I haven't removed the pump from the engine yet, so it runs right now with it 180 out.

 

So the next step was to ask the guys who've worked on these motors more - aka ratsun. So now I went to NAPA with the part number that was given and they can't find it at all in their database.

 

Next step - if I want is to remove it and make a gasket. Or just leave it like others have suggested, which is now the way I'm leaning.

 

<_< thanks for that input though, very useful.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I haven't removed the pump from the engine yet, so it runs right now with it 180 out.

 

 

Its not running if 180 out!!!! WATCH MY VID CLOSELY!

One can mount the dist mount 180 from where it was last to put the vac adv 180 off if its beeter. then just move the wires. Its still considered GOOD per spec.

 

go to O rileys and they can get a gasket.

 

the part # posted was from Nissan .

 

go to the O rileys website enter Felpro in the black and then enter your vehicle and zip and the Felpro section will give a list of gaskets from kits to single items ,however they dont list a oil pump gasket separate but its in this kit which everyone should have anyways

Fel-Pro - Engine Conversion Gasket Set

Part # CS21178

 

otherwise go to Nissan .

cant believe Napa dont have them

[flatcat19]

I don't follow your question. I have a clymer manual, haynes manual, and L-series engine rebuild manual, none of them mention a gasket between the pump and block - only a gasket for rebuilding the pump. Rockauto doesn't list that gasket. I purchased a complete engine gasket kit a while back, which doesn't list a mounting gasket on the box.

 

I haven't removed the pump from the engine yet, so it runs right now with it 180 out.

 

So the next step was to ask the guys who've worked on these motors more - aka ratsun. So now I went to NAPA with the part number that was given and they can't find it at all in their database.

 

Next step - if I want is to remove it and make a gasket. Or just leave it like others have suggested, which is now the way I'm leaning.

 

<_< thanks for that input though, very useful.

 

No. It's my bad.

I was being a smart ass...riddled with sarcasm regarding the post of yours I had quoted.

and that red little dot on my post showed I paid the price.

 

Calling someone at a Nissan parts desk might have found you a gasket quicker than a trip to NAPA.

That's all I was saying.

My FelPro conversion gasket kit came with an oil pump gasket.

$23.99 through VatoZone.

 

There is another new member that just went through almost this exact same thing.

[datzenmike]

They almost always come off clean with the pump or stay on the timing cover. As long as they don't tear they can be reused. I've never put a new one on unless rebuilding a motor and there's one in the set. I've changed to high output pumps and dropped the spindle to clock the distributor many times and they never leak.

[Jayden71]

I run my EI dizzy 180 out on my 521 ever since I put it in. I did it on purpose cuz I don't want the "matchbox" right next to the exhaust manifold. It now faces the radiator and does not get exhaust temp hot, seems like it will not shorten its life this way.