280zx strut / ball joint install problem

[VoidDragon]

Hey!

 

Ive been secretly working on my 510 goon sr20 swap, and recently as starting the "put it back together" stage, Ive ran into an issue.

 

I'm putting in an sr20, so I obviously looked into the 280zx (79) struts for the brakes. Upon install, however, the bolts are hitting each other and I have no steering travel.

 

I ordered new ball joints for the resto as well, so they are new. and RCA's from t3. The bolts that hit are the ones going up through the steering knuckle into the strut, and the outer two holding the ball joint in.

 

My question is this.

 

The ball joints that were on the car were bolted to the top of the LCA. The new ones I ordered from RockAuto for my 72 510 goon, would not. Not unless i started drilling the holes out bigger, They did however, fit perfectly if bolted up from the bottom. Which way should they be? I've even tried puttin in "bolts" that are angle headed so they fit flush(er) to the arm. Still no Dice. the rear most strut bolt still hits. Should the ball joints be on top or bottom?

 

Parts list

1979 280sx struts

RCAs from t3

Stock 72 510 goon LCAs & Tension rods.

New balljoints from rock auto for (I presume) my 1972 Goon.

 

much thanks!

[datzenmike]

I think this was discussed on the realm. Some swear that they are one way others the other way. All worked. Ginger?.... or Mary Anne?

[hobbes_the_cat]

maybe they are the wrong ball joints. I am running the same setup as you are, 280zx struts and T3 RCA's and my ball joints are mounted on top of the LCA. I can see how it would rub if mounted below.

[Dime Dave]

Void,

Are you trying to use the 280ZX steering arms? The tapeered hole diameter is bigger and will not fit the 510 ball joint properly. It will bring the LCA closer to the steering arm than will properly work. Some have claimed ball joints getting broken using 280ZX steering arms on 510 ball joints.

 

Another possibility (highly unlikely) is the ball joint is a 68-69 which has a smaller stud than the '70 on ball joints. The early ball joint with the later steering arm ('70 on) will not properly fit either.

 

Also with the ball joint under the LCA the small bolts that thread into the BJ will have the heads on top of the LCA reducing clearance. If the ball joint is on top of the LCA these bolts screw in from below and you have more clearance.

 

I do not understand how the ball joint will bolt under and not bolt on top. All the bolts need to pass thru the same holes in the LCA so why do they need redrilling to fit on top? I beleive stock position is on top.

[VoidDragon]

Was using the stock 510 steering knuckle. Got them mounted on top, and having no clearance issues.

 

But I had to reem out the holes some and grind away some of the ball joint housing.

No idea why out would bolt up easily one way and not the other.

[Stupid_fast]

Hey, for ball joints I noticed on rockauto they have two different ones listed for 1972 510, 11mm thread and 14mm thread.

 

Maybe you got the wrong ones?

 

I'm looking to get those soon for mine. I was wondering which ones where correct for the 510!

[VoidDragon]

Hey sorry took me a few to see your reply. I searched for the boxes they came in, but they are long gone. the order.confirmation said I ordered:

 

1972 NISSAN 510 1.6L 1595cc L4 [L16]

 

MEVOTECH MK9011 Ball Joint

 

I had a helluva time being them on my 72 510 goon.

[domn8tr]

yeah I can confirm these cheap ass mevotech 9011 balljoints dont fit for shit unless from underneath. I tried to used them on your FutoFab LCAs dave but they would only fit underneath, gunna have a go at grinding the shit out of them id prefer not to ream out this nice LCA if i even could because its so thick. Guess that's what I get for buying the 17 dollar balljoint.

[67Stiffy]

I just replaced mine a week ago and same problem. I ended up taking a 1/16" off the LCA. Wish mine were 17 bucks tho. I paid 55 and that was the cheapest I could find!

[domn8tr]

I just replaced mine a week ago and same problem. I ended up taking a 1/16" off the LCA. Wish mine were 17 bucks tho. I paid 55 and that was the cheapest I could find!

rockauto.com is your friend, man!

[VoidDragon]

And rockauto unfortunately will get you hints you have to grind to fit.

[dennis]

Get Moog balljoints. they use the same part number as the crap you guys have mentioned.

[Boaty]

I always use Moog joints if I can, FWIW. 5 years of hard driving and still going strong. Give 'em some synthetic grease.

 

What does Rockauto have anything to do with hints of grinding? I don't get it..

 

With 280zx struts, you should be using 510 steering knuckles, and 510 ball joints. ZX Steering knuckle drastically changes steering ratio, which means at speed, your normal lane change could mean

taking out your car on a guard rail. Also, hit a bump hard enough you'll be losing a finger if it's in the steering wheel, if it decides to just take off with you. (No thumbs in steering wheel, remember that!)

 

I've only ever seen ball joints mounted on top of the control arm. Never seen one mounted beneath the control arm before... stock has them mounted on top.

 

As Dave mentioned above, there are two different ball joint and steering knuckle sizes on a 510.

Early models have 11mm joints & steering knuckles, and later (71+?) uses 14 mm ball joints and knuckles.

 

You cannot swap a small knuckle on a large ball joint, or vice versa. Unless you wanted to machine a small knuckle up to a 14mm,

but I think the design is different to accommodate the larger size. This was done to reduce ball joint failure & fatigue. If you can, upgrade to the 14mm knuckles and joints.

 

Somebody have a picture of a ball joint mounted below the LCA? If it was that way on my dime, the ball joint would likely be trying to grind my wheel away.

Until this thread, I've never even heard of mounting the balljoint under the control arm... sounds weird to me.

[max121]

I always use Moog joints if I can, FWIW. 5 years of hard driving and still going strong. Give 'em some synthetic grease.

 

What does Rockauto have anything to do with hints of grinding? I don't get it..

 

With 280zx struts, you should be using 510 steering knuckles, and 510 ball joints. ZX Steering knuckle drastically changes steering ratio, which means at speed, your normal lane change could mean

taking out your car on a guard rail. Also, hit a bump hard enough you'll be losing a finger if it's in the steering wheel, if it decides to just take off with you. (No thumbs in steering wheel, remember that!)

 

I've only ever seen ball joints mounted on top of the control arm. Never seen one mounted beneath the control arm before... stock has them mounted on top.

 

As Dave mentioned above, there are two different ball joint and steering knuckle sizes on a 510.

Early models have 11mm joints & steering knuckles, and later (71+?) uses 14 mm ball joints and knuckles.

 

You cannot swap a small knuckle on a large ball joint, or vice versa. Unless you wanted to machine a small knuckle up to a 14mm,

but I think the design is different to accommodate the larger size. This was done to reduce ball joint failure & fatigue. If you can, upgrade to the 14mm knuckles and joints.

 

Somebody have a picture of a ball joint mounted below the LCA? If it was that way on my dime, the ball joint would likely be trying to grind my wheel away.

Until this thread, I've never even heard of mounting the balljoint under the control arm... sounds weird to me.

THANKS!!!!

I was Searching forever and nobody summed it up

[Boaty]

No problemo ;)

[DISLEXICDIME]

You said 79 zx brakes I thought you were only supposed to use 81-83 zx struts

[thisismatt]

Why?  Any of them should be fine.

[yellowdatsun]

Fronts should be the same, it's the back that is different. The early rear calipers are whack, the later ones look normal.