FiveSeventyZee Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Doing a head gasket job and I'm stuck at the part where you take the can sprocket off but the bolt won't come out. I checked out Hainz's video on YouTube but it was only finger tight. any tips? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Sick a 1/2" extension in one of the cam gear holes on the left. Just above the cam tower. Insert 19mm socket and ratchet. Give it a heave like you're He-Man. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Doing a head gasket job and I'm stuck at the part where you take the can sprocket off but the bolt won't come out. I checked out Hainz's video on YouTube but it was only finger tight. any tips? his was only finger tight for demonstration purposes. you have to keep in mind that the cam spins at half the rpms of the crank, thats still fast so you wouldn't want a bolt only finger tight Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Do as above or if cam has the center lobes put a big cresant wrench on there turn it till if jams up on the head boltwith cam bolt. then BUST loosen cam bolt then turn cam back to TDC.Loosen lower crank bolt if needed(pull the front cover) once to TDC push in Chain tool and dont move the crank. loosen the cam bolt and pull out the sprocket. of coarse fuel pump will be removed also nice to have a chain tool! mostly L16 one usues a big screw driver or extension. I really dont like doing this either with screwdrivers or extensions(hard on sprocket) but the L16s did NOT have the center 2 block lobes on them. this is EZ dont rush Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 dont forget to chock the chain with something, if you drop the chain your fawked! Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Look at the bright side, if you don't properly block the tensioner you can buy a shiny new timing chain! :D Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 oh okay. thanks guys. I'll give that a try when I get home today. and as for the chain tensioner I have a block of wood cut to the specs in the Haynes manual ready and waiting. I just got stuck on this one last bolt. and the he man stuff was scaring me but I guess it's safe to do? time to drink a protien shake I guess :P Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 well I got it off but now the head bolts seem to be stuck. I tried using the same pipe I had used for the cam sprocket and it just broke my ratchet wrench. is there any trick to getting these bolts out? Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 double post... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 broke my ratchet wrench. ???????? This this wrench say Made in Taiwan/China/India/Pakistan ect.....????? key is some good tools. Heads use a 10mm allen. I use a Craftsman tool 10mm allen that goes into a 1/4in drive. then I use a 1/4 to 1/2in adapter to the big breaker bar then to my cherrybomb muffler(thats my extension) when the bolt breaks it will make a nice snap. If loose it will just be loose. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I used the 10mm to 3/8 then adapter to 1/2 to my craftsman ratchet. Put my floor jack handle over the ratchet and off the bolts came. You would be shocked how much I have beat on my ratchets and they keep working. Honestly I dont recommend craftsman for everything, but for ratchets and sockets, they are amazing. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I was using a craftsman 10mm socket 3/8ths drive with an adapter to my 1/2 in drive craftsmen ratchet. it was very old though so that may be why it broke. regardless I have a coworker with a breaker bar that I'll be picking up when I get off work tonight so hopefully o don't run into any more snags. i have to get this to the machine shop and back together by the 26th to clear the fix it ticket I got for excessive smoke after the head gasket blew Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 LOL, I use my Craftsman torque wrench as breaker bar, until I get off my lazy bum to go warranty it. Then I will have to find a different breaker bar :( Good luck getting those out man, you should be done by the 26th no prob... Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Those head bolts can be super tight at times. And when you finally do get the head bolts out, make sure every other small bolt is out of the front. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Ya, the 2 small ones on the front, or...crack! Uh oh, time to upgrade to W58 closed chamber lol. Used to crack Jetta heads on a regular when I worked at the wrecking yard. They b sneaky, those little bolts. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 LOL, I use my Craftsman torque wrench as breaker bar, until I get off my lazy bum to go warranty it. Then I will have to find a different breaker bar :( Good luck getting those out man, you should be done by the 26th no prob... Um craftsman torque wrenches only have 90 day warranties... Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Touche Craftsman... Touche. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 I was using a craftsman 10mm socket 3/8ths drive with an adapter to my 1/2 in drive craftsmen ratchet. it was very old though so that may be why it broke. Those head bolts can be super tight at times. Lefty Lucy Righty Tighty. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 FiveSeventyZee Important: is to mark the chainlink before pulling it off I did a head gasket and forgot to mark itw a felttip ink pen. I had to trial and error.cking the timming putting it back together. reverse the crank before TDC then tighten it to TDC then ck the sprocket and see where the V and dash is at. another thing is putting the sprocket back on sometimes you have to slightly rotate the cam clock wise to put a slight slack in there to lift up the sprocket. Do not pound the sprocket on with a hammer too much as the cam might slide back I like m USA made Craftstman I use a Husky torq wrench that goes up to 100pounds Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 A big screwdriver wedged base down in the timing cover often works better than the wood thing Haynes wants you to make. Like this: And an impact wrench makes getting the cam sprocket bolt off much easier. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 ya, the wood thing didn't work on mine, it let the tensionr out just enough to eff up the spring, but didn't drop down in the pan. Quote Link to comment
zed Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Hainz trick worked for me on my L18. Honsowetz says to torque the sprocket to 70 ft lbs, with Loctite on the threads, or even a safety wire Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Raystonehocker I was told uses a hose folded in half and jams it down the chain. really those chain tools they sell if you can find them work great as it gives a little Jason Wong had a listing of where to get them. I got mine at Schucks on line when it was CSK. bought 10 of thm for 5 $ apc. Gave most of them away already. But since its O rileys I can find them anymore. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 well breaker bar did the trick. I actually got the bolts all out while on my lunch break haha. one thing is, I forgot to cheek the position of the fuel pump cam. I have a good idea of where it was but I forgot to check those markings on it before I pulled it. what's gonna be the best way to put it back on? or does the fuel pump cam not matter when it goes as long as it goes once every rotation of the cam? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Fuel pump dont matter. its just a IN/Out action to work pump. as for marking the chain link the dimple that in the 2 oclock position labol 1 2 or 3 is where you want to Ink the chain link so when youi put the sprocket back on youll know what link to hook back up to the dimple. Quote Link to comment
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