Icehouse Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 So next weekend? :D Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 well, it'll be up and running by then, but I've got my mom in town from Korea next weekend, and my middle daughter's 2nd birthday. It's gonna be a bit busy... Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Fine.... it will be at blue lake this year right? Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 We'll see. My wife wants the family to head over to Montana that week, and I don't know if I can get out of that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 It's not a peanut head... but even so, I'm running around 9.8:1 CR. I had the cylinders bored out a little bit, and I'm not using the stock internals on the engine; my setup raises the pistons up a bit, which is giving me my higher compression. Given that parts list I get 9.77 compression but this does not take into account the slight over bore you have. The deck height for the Z22 is 227.45mm. Your combo produces 228.06mm or .61mm above the deck. Even with the 1.2mm thick crushed head gasket only .3mm maximum is advised for piston height above the deck to allow for heat expansion and rod stretch at RPM. This is cutting it very close and if I may say so, rather 'ballsy' Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 These are my numbers: Bore size: 87.75mm (Z22 bored out .75mm) Stroke: 86mm (L20b crank) Headgasket bore: 88mm (that's a guess; I just figure it's gonna be 1mm over the stock bore) Compressed gasket thickness: 1.2mm Combustion chamber volume: 42.5cc (A87 head) Piston dish volume: -9.32cc (stock Z22e pistons, but they are shaved down a bit...) Deck clearance: .2mm over deck (shaved down from .4mm) And running that through the calculator again, it looks like I'm closer to 9.98:1... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 9.98 agreed! I also used an open chamber head volume (45cc) in the original calc. didn't know you had a P nut. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Oh... THAT'S where my original error was. I've run calculations with both peanut and non-peanut chambered heads, but never knew why I was coming up with different results. I haven't documented as well as I should have. Ok. I *don't* believe I have a peanut chambered head. In fact, I'm *pretty* positive I don't. So run that calculation again with the 45cc figure and we're probably somewhere in the neighborhood of an accurate compression ratio. :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 Changing to a 45.2cc head I get 9.5826 or just under 9.6 Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted July 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 and she now holds an idle just fine. I was apparently running WAY too advance (lots of backfire, and running quite a bit hotter than usual, and the timing light says so), and I noticed that my radiator has a small leak... lots of small stuff to work on, but I'm getting closer and closer... Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted July 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 Video! http://newprotest.org/details.pl?853 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 1, 2007 Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 Nice! its got headlights now to :D Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted January 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2008 Vroom vroom. I finally got the ignition timing issue sorted out (oil pump sprocket off by a tooth), and it runs so much nicer. I need to actually connect the throttle now, bleed the brakes, and clean up the wiring, and I think I should be able to drive it around. Man, this is slow going. :( Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I fixed 2 cars that way Find out the distributor is off ,about 15mins to figure out. What took you so long? http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=datsun&set=5 so anycar one comes up to never assume the last owner knew anything and line motot up to TDC ck dist spindal and where rotor points and if points open or on a EI the promgs line up. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I've known about it for a while. According to my blog, where I've been keeping track of everything, I found out November 17, and only now had some free time to work on the car. Wife, three kids, busy busy. But my in-laws are visiting, that means that I get to spend all day in the garage. I got quite a few things done today, and I've got a few more things to put together tomorrow. A part of what's taking so long is that this car was a completely empty shell when I got it. No harness, no lights, no dash -- nothing. So it's not as easy as just plugging things thing; I'm running new wires for everything. And this is the first car I've worked on, so every step of the way is a learning process for me. :: shrug :: Nice video. If you're referencing your teardown video, you might want to use this link, as it points directly to your video: http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223 Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 Ass kickin. I got the SU carbs tuned enough to drive, got the alternator wired up, bled the brakes (mostly... they still take two pumps to engage), and a bunch of other misc. stuff, and managed to scream through my neighborhood. Man, the car is loud. Even with the exhaust bolted up. Fun fun fun. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted January 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Got the SU carbs tuned a little tighter. I'm getting closer and closer to where it's supposed to be. I don't have any lights in the car yet, and it's now too dark to go driving, so I'll probably have to wait until next weekend to drive it again, unless I take a day off work to take advantage of the daylight hours. Everything is cobbled together at this point; the throttle clevis, the battery mount, the gas filler tube, the radiator, the exhaust... so my next step is to get everything more permanent, and to start working towards an interior. Maybe wiring up the lights and installing the rear lights would be a good next step. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Man, oh man. It's been a while. I haven't so much as touched the car in months, what with remodels in the house and kids and building a chicken coop and terraforming my backyard and etc., etc., etc. I jumped the battery from my minivan, and after cranking for a little while (and a few sprays of engine starter fluid), it kicked over. It took a little while to get it to run without having to constantly feather the throttle (oh, carbs... how I love and hate thee), but it got to idle reasonably well. I took it out for a spin around my neighborhood, and apart from the slight hesitation on the throttle, it did pretty well. After going around my neighborhood loop a couple of times, I brought it back and messed with the carbs for a little while until I could get the throttle to snap a little better. My alternator didn't seem to be doing anything, so I took it off, grabbed my two spare mystery alternators and ran them to my local Auto Zone to get them tested. It turns out that the alternator I was using was bad... it started smoking and arcing the testing-machine, so I let them keep that one. The other two tested fine, but both of them failed on the diode test... and I'm not competely sure what that means. The Auto Zone employee said it had to do with the radio-frequency dampener; it keeps down the whine. So I took the alternator back home and installed it. I had to use a different tension bracket, since the one I had only fit the bad alternator. Taking that bracket off meant taking the radiator fan off... which is a bit of a pain with the radiator in the way. It took me a little bit, but I managed to swap out the alternator just fine. But I'm not convinced that it's actually charging the battery yet... my in-dash volt meter doesn't seem to be affected when I have the alternator plugged in or not. Hrm. After swapping out the alternator, I planned to take it for another drive, but I noticed that my clutch lost resistence. I looked at the clutch pedal where it links up to the cylinder, and there was brake fluid pouring in. So much for that clutch master cylinder. I ordered another one online and it should arrive in a few days. Bleah. But yeah - the fact that it started up and ran after sitting for nearly 6 months, I'm very encouraged. I hate that it's taken me this long to get this car running, but now that my youngest child (and last one!) is old enough to play on her own without constant supervision, I've got more time to bang around on the 510. Good news. So... I'm back to the forums now. It's good to be back. Hopefully I'll be on the road this year. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Diode passes DC current one way and blocks it the other way. I dont think it would be for radio freq dampener. maybe some coils and capcitors!!!!But I could be wrong but its not what I learned in school. Diodes would be used as the bridge rectifier circut so it converts it to a PLUS unregulated plus AC wave then goes to a regulater where it cuts it off to a straght DC current. Thinks it time to buy a known good alternator. a shorted Diode could drain a battery Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Good to know. Thanks, Hainz. Incidentally, I think the Auto Zone employee meant to say that it prevents the oscillation associated with the whine that shows up on your radio as your alternator spins. But yeah... I'll probably have to save up for a new alternator. Bleah. They're about $100 new, aren't they? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 I havent bout a new alternator in years since I switched to a Nissan remanf one. mine was 50$ back then and the BeckArnley was 75$ from Napa. Im sure the local Schucks remanf are about 50$ but I stopped buying them do to high failure rates. No matter how many LIFETIME GUAREENTEE' coupons I had(3 at one time i think) they would still go out!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Josh, glad you're still around! Thought you left. What did you do to the SUs? Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 datzenmike - yup, still around. I have to admit that I have been tempted to jump out of the 510 game entirely... especially seeing how much money 510s have been fetching on craigslist. But... I thought about how much more time I'll have available now that I'm done having kids, and knowing that they can play out in the backyard without too much supervision, and that gives me quite a bit of motivation. Here's a short write-up on the SU carbs: http://www.newprotest.org/details.pl?1014 And here's the previous post, but I'm including it because it has a video of the engine running: http://www.newprotest.org/details.pl?1013 It's not cleaned up... I have very limited funds, so everything is cobbled together at the moment. It drives around just fine, though. :) Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Got the new clutch master cylinder installed. Looks like I'll be on the road in no time... I'm going to bang on things tonight and see if I can't figure out the alternator issue. I might take the advice in here and get a good known alternator so I don't have to worry about that anymore. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Are you still planning on making it street legal? I love daily driving my dime thats for sure :D Quote Link to comment
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