.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 truck started a light squeel, I thought it was the belt, it wasn't, so figured it was the water pump with a bad bearing, it wasn't. It drags the idle down and makes it stall. 2000 miles on a total rebuild. maybe timing chain rubbing something even though it's new? I'm clueless what and why it is. cam and harmonic bolt was torqued to specks and rechecked. I'm REALLY fucking worried :( Thought I was done fixing it today, go to start it up, and the squeel is there with Final Countdown playing on the stereo. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Unplug alternator and see if the squeeling halts. I had a guy with an old 22R Toyota come into work with a similar problem, and found that to be the issue. Don't know what caused the alternator to take a shit, but he took it home, swapped alternators, and called back to report that it was perfect. Not sure if this is your problem or not though. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 doing it now. It's brand new though. gm style 110 amp chrome bad boy that's never been banged around, just loose once or twice when my adapter bracket snapped it's front bolt, and the tensioner broke and let it loose again. Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 yeah, start it with the belt off, that will rule out or condemn the alt or water pump 1 Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Just changed the water pump (and thermostat). checked the alternator by loosning thebelt, and spinning it by hand. no resistance, and since it drags down the rpm's it's probably not the problem. Pulled the valve cover just now, and nothing is obvious. nothing seems to be rubbing anywhere. Quote Link to comment
Str8_69 Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Did you start it w/out the belt like nismo dr suggested? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 not yet, still have the valve cover off, but I will, since everything looks okay in the head and timing chain. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Just changed the water pump (and thermostat). checked the alternator by loosning thebelt, and spinning it by hand. no resistance, and since it drags down the rpm's it's probably not the problem. Pulled the valve cover just now, and nothing is obvious. nothing seems to be rubbing anywhere. The key has to be on for any resistance unless the bearing is locked, if it is charging full blast(30 amps or more) because the regulator going/went bad the belt could squeal and eventually your battery will fry. I take it it squeals with the clutch out in neutral, what about the clutch in? What about the clutch in, in gear? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 started it beltless, no change, tried it clutch in and out in and out of gear, no change. I'm looking suspisciously at the new dizzy/oil pump now. It does have an exhaust leak and could be a whistle, but that wouldn't affect the rpm's........ Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Belt gremlins. ;) Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 started it beltless, no change, tried it clutch in and out in and out of gear, no change. I'm looking suspisciously at the new dizzy/oil pump now. It does have an exhaust leak and could be a whistle, but that wouldn't affect the rpm's........ With the belts off there isn't a lot left, does the cam have oil on(soaking wet with oil) it, or is it dry? If oil soaked, then you better quit starting it cause all that will slow the engine down is a spun bearing, or something got jammed somewhere and you need to find it. I ask again, when you pulled the valve cover off was everything soaked in oil? Quote Link to comment
Str8_69 Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Do you have a large shallow container you can drain the oil into to check for metal frag? If it looks ok, you can always put it back in, but I would definately check before you go much further. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Yeah, it's soaked. everything was torqued and clearance checked, why would it spin new bearings? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Do you have a large shallow container you can drain the oil into to check for metal frag? If it looks ok, you can always put it back in, but I would definately check before you go much further. Sigh..... Yeah, i'll try to round up a magnet and drain the oil over it........ Thanks. Just seems so fucking impossible it'd take a shit in 2000 miles. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Sounds like a intake gasket or exhaust gasket leak. What spot do you have the cam dowl pin at on the cam gear. 1 2 or 3? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Sounds like a intake gasket or exhaust gasket leak. What spot do you have the cam dowl pin at on the cam gear. 1 2 or 3? I can't remember. It was a new set, but I didn't check when I had the valve cover off. what would that affect, and is it important enough that I should pull the cover again to find out? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Obviously something is not right, a part has come loose somewhere and jammed, something is dry when it is supposed to be wet. I bought an engine on CL a few years ago, this is the short story, a part was missing in the distibuter area, no oil got to cam and it started squeeking. When I bought it I deceided to check everything, pulled the oilpan, mains were torqued, rodends were not! Is this a fresh engine? Check the timing chain, is the chain itself soaked with oil, test it, pour oil on it and put the cover back on and start it breifly. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Sigh..... Yeah, i'll try to round up a magnet and drain the oil over it........ Thanks. Just seems so fucking impossible it'd take a shit in 2000 miles. I just put a LZ23 together recently, I put 500 or so miles on the breakin, changed the oil, and less than 2 weeks later I lost a head gasket (water in the oil), when I removed the head, one of the head bolts wasn't tight, I have yet to figure out how the threads got stripped from when I torqued it, to when I removed the head to fix the issue. Question, is there a vacuum hose loose? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 the vacuum hose had no leaks, but here's something interesting. I popped the oil cap loose to see if the noise got louder, and it didn't . Tells me it's probably the intake/exhaust torque/gaskets. air getting in the fuel mix to drop the idle, and whistling as it gets through. no biggie, except how brittle and froze those bolts will be. maybe i'll limp it to work, so I can pull the header up a bit and be able to fix the main exhaust leak, or weld extraction nuts if I break any bolts. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 pbblast ,,, :) Do you by chance have a cheapo drive-belt ? :unsure: ( like a gates or off-brand ) ,,, they never work for me ( always squeal or re-adjust/thin ) The GM Alternator's ,,, while a good upgrade for datto's ,,,, are notorious for going bad ( bearings , rectifiers/diodes ) ,,,, I would still use just more aware as a trade-off :) I pressure washed my engine before dropping in a few weeks ago ,,, got water into the alternator ,,, :blink: ( taped off not good enough ) ,,,, now the sucker's bearings are REALLY bad ,,, Are you by chance drawing a lot of power ? ( stereo system , honduh lights , etc ,,, ) :lol: ;) jk ,,, Be careful with the GM stuff ,,, just because it's new ,,, doesn't mean it will last or work for very long ,,, but hey some do !!! :) ,,, :lol: ,,, "like a rock" <----- indeed :lol: :lol: :lol: ,,,,, :D Also ,,, if by chance you painted the inside edge of the pulley's ,,, there is no rough enough surface/place for the belt to grip ,,, rough it up a bit ,,, :) Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 the vacuum hose had no leaks, but here's something interesting. I popped the oil cap loose to see if the noise got louder, and it didn't . Tells me it's probably the intake/exhaust torque/gaskets. air getting in the fuel mix to drop the idle, and whistling as it gets through. no biggie, except how brittle and froze those bolts will be. maybe i'll limp it to work, so I can pull the header up a bit and be able to fix the main exhaust leak, or weld extraction nuts if I break any bolts. I wish you were closer, I live in vancouver, your 20-30 miles from me. Where does it sound like it is coming from? All my exhaust leaks from small to big never whistled. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Naow that I remembered ,,, my brother's old Honduh CRX ,,, It's alternator squealed like a bitch , when it started to go out ,,, before getting replaced ,,, I can't remember if he had super duper bad-ass stereo system that over-taxed it , or what ? ,,, but it definetly was the alternator ,,, after (3) autolite reman's ( shit ) ,,, found a working one that didn't make noise and charged ,,,, :lol: Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 I asked about the dowl pin because my cousin put his l16 on the 3rd hole when it didn't nead to be and it maid. It whine. Put the cam gear on 2 and the whine went a way. But with the cam gear on 3 the engine did not want to rev past 5000 ish it would brake up. You should spray around the intake and carb with carb cleaner I had a phinolic spacer crack and make a humming nois Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 yeah, I do draw a bit of current. stereo is nothing too special, bright lights, but led/hid, so no big loss there. Where I draw the current is running my electric fan full time when its running. the noise stayed when I took the belt off, so the new alternator and water pump are good. Whatever it is seems to be around the intake/exhaust, and is dragging the idle down. I'm just happy as hell it's not internal. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Check the PVC valve to make sure it is working properly, it should draw air at an even slow rate, put your finger over the hole in the end of it, if it changes anything, then it is broken. This seems unlikely though as it usually makes the engine surge up in RPMs, but I have only had one go bad, and that is what it did that time. Quote Link to comment
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