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620 in the Hood

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By this afternoon I should be the proud owner of a 1978 620 KC. It was my neighbor guy who lived down the street. He bought it new here in Hood River back when we actually had a Datsun dealer. The truck is in fair shape over all, not much but surface rust and the L20 doesn't smoke at all. Fired right up after sitting most of the winter. One minor dent in the driver side rocker behind the door. Paint is coming of the roof but nothing a rising sun won't fix. The valves need to be adjusted and the air con copressor has a sqeal but over all she is a solid little beasty. For now she is just going to be an around towner with just the little stuff getting sorted out. Down the road, who knows. I do have a spare SR20 and tranny floating around .:cool: Pics to follow once the camera battery charges.


aka exit64

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Here are some pictures of the addition to the 10th St. Datsun Fleet. This truck only has 108K, all put on there by the original owner. There is a good chance that I am only about the 5th person to drive this truck. Paul didn't let anyone drive her, not even his son in law, and he bought it new in 1978. Check out those mud flaps and stock hubcaps. This Dat will go and live with Shifty until I get the Roadster situation under control. I am going to give her a full spa day today and work on the carb a little bit. Other than that, it has way more get up and go than my 83 Toyota that has a fresh engine. Blue needs her lube changed and valves adjusted and then I think she will really go. Some fresh gas wouldn't hurt much either as she was last fueled in September. There is an anti freeze leak in the heater system somewhere but it is downright spacious under that dash compared to a Roadster so it shouldn't be a problem. Enjoy.



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I have some free time this week so I am digging into the 620 a little deeper. For some reason the PO decided to adjust the carby and now she won't idle. Starts up and runs fine on the choke but dies once the motor is warmed up. Oh wait I see the problem, there's only one carb on this thing.:cool: That's right, all my other Datsun iron have dual sidedrafts so I am at a loss with this thing. I picked up a carb rebuild kit today and there's ball bearings in the bag. Muffler bearings I can deal with but I might put my eye out with one of these carb BB's.

I have a real problem with dirty engines. Harder to work on and you can't see the leaks to fix if there are any so I took about an hour and a half and got Blue in a more presentable state. I highly reccommend Awsome Orange from the Dollar Tree Store. Works great and doesn't attack the paint if you rinse in a timely manor. The results speak for themselves. First thing I do is de-grease the engine and bay when I pick up a new car. Saves time later on.

So what I need to know is what are the initial settings on the carb screws? Anyone? The rear screw was out about 3 1/2 turns and the front was out about 1/2. I am going to mess with this a bit more tomorrow and if I can't get it to go I am going to tear down this carb and do a rebuild but I am still going to need the initial screw settings. Sound off all you L20 guys.

I will just keep adding pics to the Picasa blog as I move along on this project. Enjoy.




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buy a new gas filter and tear the old one apart. If alot of dirt/rust in there then go to the carb and find where the idle jet is and more like its plugged.

after unplugging the idle jet the carb shouls idle or adjust the mixture screw with the tension spring at the base of the carb.


most people turn it out from the bottom 1.5 - 3turns should do it.

If not put it back where you think it was and look for something else. Bt I would not know what more. Uauasuly its a plug JET or mixture

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I thought I would keep a complete album over on Picasa so I remember everything that I am doing instead of looking back over the tread. I guess I can do it both ways. Thanks for the input so far you guys. Fisch's rendering has really got the wheels spinning in my noggin. Normally I am a "stock" kind of guy, but I am seriously thinking SR20 S14 swap. I have also been looking at Lake pipes and chin spoilers. I wonder if a BRE spook would fit the front of this? Then I could plumb in some fresh air to cool the brakes. The trailer mirrors have got to go, along with the side moulding and hooks. Fender Bullit mirrors are in the very near future. I am also thinking that '69 teardrop blinkers from a Roadster would look good instead of the square sidmarkers that are on there now, but they are pricey little bits of bling. Stay tuned.

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OK, here's a question for all you L series guys. What's a good intake for a dual carb setup for this truck? I've got a few extra sets of carbs that need to be put to use so why not let them live on the 620 for a while. I can either run Webers or Mikuni's that should take the same manifold or I have a set of 2 litre Roadster carbs that would work if I can find the right intake manifold. Would a SSS from an L16 work? I know the R and U stuff inside and out but not so up to speed on the L series stuff. Also at E&L Machine here in HR there is an L16 block, crank and head that someone left there about 10 years ago and they wnat it gone. The machine work on the head is done with valve job and the block might also be done but I didn't look that close. Kevin wants $125 for everything but might be open to offers. Give him a call if you are interested at 541-386-1404. These guys are good machinists. Not fast but very accurate.

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