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4-Linking with Airshocks vs. IRS with Airshocks


ehime

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So I decided to other day I want to go low. Very Low.

 

I talked to a buddy of mine Justin Hrenko (you might have seen his slammed 73 Wagon),

and he told me he went IRS from a 510, and that it was just shy of misery, but it all came

together in the end and now he's running QA1 Airshocks and is very low. I like it. He has

another buddy that's running a four-link setup and he's also pretty low. I'm trying to decide

on a direction. Pro's and Con's. Difficulty inherit on each. Overall usability, and basically

forums opinions on what to do. Here's Justin's IRS (White) next to our friends (Beige) four

link. Lemme know what you guys and gals think.

 

262632_1813896952116_1380838671_31643048_2617248_n.jpg

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The four link looks better from a "I'm not gonna wear out tires faster" perspective. As for the IRS, It gives you some better options for different heights...but camber is still a major criteria for me to consider a drop like that.

 

My vote = four link.

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The white is the one with IR.

 

Zero what do you think the difficulty in both/either is?

Considerable. Both involve adding coil springs where leafs once resided. Is your frame up to the challenge (structurally speaking)? Are you ready for crap that may not have shown up in another person's wagon (rust, bent or broken parts, etc...)? I would go straight static (block) drop with the live axle. I know its not low enough, but shearing off important undercarriage items is not what I would call "cool" on any rare 38 year old car.

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The four link looks better from a "I'm not gonna wear out tires faster" perspective. As for the IRS, It gives you some better options for different heights...but camber is still a major criteria for me to consider a drop like that.

 

My vote = four link.

 

 

Considerable. Both involve adding coil springs where leafs once resided. Is your frame up to the challenge (structurally speaking)? Are you ready for crap that may not have shown up in another person's wagon (rust, bent or broken parts, etc...)? I would go straight static (block) drop with the live axle. I know its not low enough, but shearing off important undercarriage items is not what I would call "cool" on any rare 38 year old car.

 

 

Two extremely relevant posts back to back. Kudos zerow. Way to save another one.

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I've seen the tan Solid axle wagon in person,,,,, and it is plenty low for a daily driver,,,,, , ,maybe too low

 

 

.. . .. but it looks really GOOD ..... .. the white one looks cool and all,,, but I would way rather have the "no camber" look on a wagon

 

 

 

it cost me $35 for 3" lowering blocks and matching U-bolts to slam my 710 wagon..... .. funny thing is your friend Justin did the motor swap on my KA24DE 710 wagon

 

 

.... so he did the ONLY running KA24DE swapped 710 .... . .and he did the ONLY running IRS swapped 610 goon

 

 

 

and he said the IRS swap was just shy of misery??? .... . . and you're still considering it why???

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The reason I'm leaning towards airshocks is so I can actually get over things though,

blades of grass, sideways cig packs, etc. From what I understand using lowering

blocks will pretty much mean I am that low, and that low always. Is that an incorrect

assumption?

 

Indy do you have pictures of your 710 for reference?

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PacificCoastDatsun and GreenGoon both have 3" lowering blocks and Monroe air-shocks on their 510 wagons .... so you can raise the back for speedbumps or carrying weight .. .. they also modified the leaf springs, shock mounts,,, and GreenGoon raised the shakle mount to the body

 

 

 

ThinkOutsideTheBox710 told me he had 3" lowering blocks and stock springs/shocks on his old 710 wagon,,, , so I did the same,, but haven't driven it yet:

 

 

A1DSC01545.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

it took 300lbs of concrete to get this low after 3" blocks: ...... :lol:

 

 

5729427664_ae6f27cc98_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5728889309_185d89c677_b.jpg

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Cheers, that actually looks damned good.

I didn't know you could use airshocks/bags along with blocks. Of course I'm not

necessarily a suspension guy and this is my first real foray into it. Something of

some in interest I dug up today though was this little article, what does forum

think? http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=572&view=previous

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  • 3 months later...

it took 300lbs of concrete to get this low after 3" blocks: ...... :lol:

 

 

 

Raising this from the dead. So you said 300lbs of concrete in the back to get it that low,

did you use it to bend your leafs, or to just get it to look that low after you did it, I.E. there's

concrete bags in it right now but its not normally that low.

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You can't permanently bend leaf springs by doing that. If so, every leaf spring vehicle would look like that after the first bump. To permanently flatten or re-arch a leaf a hydraulic press is needed. Never never never heat them!!! Spring steel has an elastic memory that returns it to it's former position. The steel needs to be pushed past this to a new memory position but carefully and in small amounts. A press with a jig to add a little every few inches will do. Like this...

 

PICT0869.jpg

 

I had mine done at a shop and they had an electric motor for the hydraulic jack and was quite fast to do.

 

.

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  • 10 months later...

hey all, i know im a new guy to this hole relm but i think honestly in my opinion that if your looking for more low than just put up with the headaches and work on a IRS swap with bags or airshocks, but on the other hand keeping any and all original/OEM parts and running gear deffinatly adds a whole nother level of awesomeness. also i say this cuz in the last 2 weeks i have dropped 3 DIFFERENT rear ends in my 72 goon and im still working on it for a fourth and im kinda leaning towards the IRS out of a Miata just dont want to have to put up with the lug pattern difference.

 

Vote=IRS

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i recentley 4 linked James 510 wagon if ya want it low your gonna have to fabricate a new floor pan. and notched the subframe or raise it also which needs to happen anyway for proper geometry under the 510. i dunno know if the 610/710 rear floor pans are the same or not.

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