Uncle Laulau Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 My trucks matchbox is working pretty gooda. Need to make a heat shield for the matchbox because it's facing the manifold, and maybe fine tune the wiring, making it not as psychotic looking with all the loose wires dangling about. Now my weber 32/36 is dripping gas from its gaskets and is all gunky and wet on the inside. The truck will stall at times if I slam the gas peddle down. Other times it hesitates and then jumps back to life, like the fuel is being cut on and off. I thought I had gunk in my fuel from and old tank, until 808da6 pointed out my filter looked clean and my weber shouldn't be dripping. The other ratsuners standing about agreed, and said I should probably rebuild my carb. So that's where I stand...trying to hunt down a place in town I can pick up a kit, I don't want to wait for mail order. I'm to inpatient. I also have never rebuilt a carb before, I know it's a big shocker to all yall. So I'm trying to avoid getting in over my head by learning about the process before I start taking things apart, again a shocking statement I'm sure. Well off to church, I'll catch all you heathens when I get back with some oics to falla. Happy Fathers Day to all the Ratsun Papas. Quote Link to comment
808DA6 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Take your time. Make note of where EVERY jet goes. Also write down what the numbers on the jets are. If you're willing/able to come out to Hillsboro, I have a Weber Carb Manual I can lend you. Lemme know. (503)887-eight one five one. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 As Brian said, make note of the jets. A weber 32/36 has to be the easiest carb ever to take apart and put back together. Really nothing hard about it. Maybe take lots of pics to make memory easier. :D The linkage on the outside is the hardest part. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 just a note...the weber doesn't do so well "slamming" the throttle down. The butterfly opens up too quickly for a good vacuum signal to be generated to advance the dizzy. The stumble is because it's got too much fuel and it's waiting for the mechanical advance to kick in. 1 Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 oics Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Nice pictures, will be helpful when everything goes back together. As you start to remove the large stuff from the outside(air cleaner, valve cover hose) You will be able to see all the linkage much better, take more pics. Side note?? what is your crankcase breather hooked up to? Where is your PCV valve? Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Nice pictures, will be helpful when everything goes back together. As you start to remove the large stuff from the outside(air cleaner, valve cover hose) You will be able to see all the linkage much better, take more pics. Side note?? what is your crankcase breather hooked up to? Where is your PCV valve? Um forgive my ignorance, I'm learning. I appreciate you looking at the pictures. I think I'm going to video the dissemble. I think that will be really idiot proof. The big hose on top of the valve cover is hooked up to a plastic piece under the air filter tray thingy on the carb. It's kinda shown in the pictures. Funny you mentioned that. I know some people leave this disconnected and put a little filter on top of the valve cover instead of having the connection to the carb. What's the reason for the variation? My old 510 had the little filter thingy on the valve cover. That hose sure dumps a bunch of oil into the top of the carb. Wayno showed me oil hitting his hand when the oil cap was off and the engine was running. He said it didn't look that bad as far as the blow by that was trowing a bit of oil up into his hand. So all that to say I'm considering leaving that hose off the carb post rebuild and getting one of those cool looking mini filter thingy bobs. What to you think? Oh pcv do I even have one? Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Take your time. Make note of where EVERY jet goes. Also write down what the numbers on the jets are. If you're willing/able to come out to Hillsboro, I have a Weber Carb Manual I can lend you. Lemme know. (503)887-eight one five one. That's nice of you Brian, I'm tempted to drive down. I don't think I'll have time however. I'm getting ready to buy the rebuild kit, and I don't think they come with jets. Is this so, so do I need to buy jets in addition to the rebuild kit? Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Um forgive my ignorance, I'm learning. I appreciate you looking at the pictures. I think I'm going to video the dissemble. I think that will be really idiot proof. The big hose on top of the valve cover is hooked up to a plastic piece under the air filter tray thingy on the carb. It's kinda shown in the pictures. Funny you mentioned that. I know some people leave this disconnected and put a little filter on top of the valve cover instead of having the connection to the carb. What's the reason for the variation? My old 510 had the little filter thingy on the valve cover. That hose sure dumps a bunch of oil into the top of the carb. Wayno showed me oil hitting his hand when the oil cap was off and the engine was running. He said it didn't look that bad as far as the blow by that was trowing a bit of oil up into his hand. So all that to say I'm considering leaving that hose off the carb post rebuild and getting one of those cool looking mini filter thingy bobs. What to you think? This top hose is correct now. Basically it is recycling right now. If you just put one of those little filters on, it will dump just as much oil out all over the valve cover. One of the reasons that i asked is because i dont see a PCV valve hooked up to the block at all. Which, if the block vent is plugged, could be part of your oil problem at the carb. On the drivers side of the block is a steel pipe(under the exhaust manifold, toward the rear), what is it hooked too? It should be connected to the intake manifold with a PCV valve. And in your pics the intake manifold is plugged off. Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 This top hose is correct now. Basically it is recycling right now. If you just put one of those little filters on, it will dump just as much oil out all over the valve cover. One of the reasons that i asked is because i dont see a PCV valve hooked up to the block at all. Which, if the block vent is plugged, could be part of your oil problem at the carb. On the drivers side of the block is a steel pipe(under the exhaust manifold, toward the rear), what is it hooked too? It should be connected to the intake manifold with a PCV valve. And in your pics the intake manifold is plugged off. Looks like the whole for the pcv valve has been sealed off at both ends. I guess I don't even have one. I'll put pictures up soon. Cost Less auto parts had the rebuild kit, but no jets. I asked where I could find some and he said nobody has them. Why do I think this was an incorrect statement. I'll keep calling around and by the way they wanted $40 for just the rebuild. Ive seen em on the internet for $12. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 why would you need jets? rebuild is misleading. Its mostly 2 gaskets and a nnedle valve and a acell pump. Which I bet your is working on these so called rebuild kits. I cant see the photos but holpe the block is opne vent that sealed up. if no PCV valve Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 While the engine was running I had the oil cap off and stuck my hand over it, at an idle there was enough blowby to get a few specs of oil on my hand, but when he reved it, the blowby almost went away. I wasn't looking at/for the engine case breather either, so I missed that. the oic. below is the fuel pressure regulator that has been taken out of operation, and the line coming out the inner fender hole is the fuel return line back to the tank which has also been bypassed, but capped with a bolt. I'll have to come over Kevin and see what's going on with the engine block vent, it would be behind your exhaust manifold, at least the hole is, there is supposed to be a tube that goes to the intake mani. via a rubber hose of signifficant size. wayno Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 While the engine was running I had the oil cap off and stuck my hand over it, at an idle there was enough blowby to get a few specs of oil on my hand, but when he reved it, the blowby almost went away. I wasn't looking at/for the engine case breather either, so I missed that. the oic. below is the fuel pressure regulator that has been taken out of operation, and the line coming out the inner fender hole is the fuel return line back to the tank which has also been bypassed, but capped with a bolt. I'll have to come over Kevin and see what's going on with the engine block vent, it would be behind your exhaust manifold, at least the hole is, there is supposed to be a tube that goes to the intake mani. via a rubber hose of signifficant size. wayno Wayno looks like the guy just plugged the whole, it looks ugly too. I don't know I'm guessing a bunch of people upgrade the carb and don't think the pcv is necessary? Regardless I need to clean up this carb. So looks like I'm gonna learn. The jets is the part of the whole thing that confuses me, when you buy the jets off the web, it's just jets. They don't say any thing about different sizes. I'm bummed I have to take apart the carb and look at each jet before I order it. We shall see my friend, I'm tired and hitting the hay. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I asked on the other thread, do you need a pair of taillight lenses or just one? Quote Link to comment
808DA6 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Don't buy any jets yet. You may not have to. Change the body gaskets, etc.. that come with the kit first. The only reason you want to write down the jets you have is to (1.) be sure you put them back in the correct spot and (2.) to tune later if needed. The carb may be jetted exactly how it needs to be for that motor, but the fact that its bleeding fuel (and most probably leaking vacuum) is why you're doing the rebuild. Key note, the body is aluminum and the jets are brass. Be really careful not to cross-thread the jets into the body when reassembling. Also, be careful not to overtighten anything. Remember - Aluminum. Also, make sure you're using the right tools for the job. Don't muck up the brass jets by using the wrong sized screwdriver. -B Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I asked on the other thread, do you need a pair of taillight lenses or just one? Oh I didn't see the tail light question, I would love to take a pair of tail lights off your hands, and see your automotive museum! Name your price Wayno. (Any thing over $20 I have to ask my wife) Just kidding, kinda. Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Don't buy any jets yet. You may not have to. Change the body gaskets, etc.. that come with the kit first. The only reason you want to write down the jets you have is to (1.) be sure you put them back in the correct spot and (2.) to tune later if needed. The carb may be jetted exactly how it needs to be for that motor, but the fact that its bleeding fuel (and most probably leaking vacuum) is why you're doing the rebuild. Key note, the body is aluminum and the jets are brass. Be really careful not to cross-thread the jets into the body when reassembling. Also, be careful not to overtighten anything. Remember - Aluminum. Also, make sure you're using the right tools for the job. Don't muck up the brass jets by using the wrong sized screwdriver. -B Oh sweet I'm gonna get the kit from cost less. I'll take my time and go slow as not to loose any parts or damage soft metal. I'm also gonna try and video the whole disassemble. I think it would be as fun as helpful for reference. If the diagram in the kit isn't good enough I know who I can bug for the weber book. Thanks again and hope I don't need it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 This is my opinion here Car b look fine for the amout of age it has. Mine look like your also. I say DONT FUCK WITH IT!!!!!!!!! one thing is fine the crank case tube for the block is more importnat than the so called carb issue. The block vent should not be blocked. Should be a tube with a rubber type ose that goes to the lower part of intake via the PCV valve. At lease open case the vent on the block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 This is my opinion here Car b look fine for the amout of age it has. Mine look like your also. I say DONT FUCK WITH IT!!!!!!!!! one thing is fine the crank case tube for the block is more importnat than the so called carb issue. The block vent should not be blocked. Should be a tube with a rubber type ose that goes to the lower part of intake via the PCV valve. At lease open case the vent on the block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh my this sounds bad, so it sounds like this isn't a common engine swap thing people due to get rid of the pcv. On the carb issue I want to mess with it so I can learn how to rebuild a carb. That's the whole point to the truck. It's going to be my automotive class, until it runs awesome or I can say I know how to do (blank) to a old car or truck. This is fun. You guys are all my defacto tutors, and I appreciate that it's huge. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 this might help too :) http://community.ratsun.net/topic/2125-weber-carb-hesitation/ Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 this might help too :) http://community.rat...arb-hesitation/ This looks like a sick link. I skimmed it and it looks super informative. Thanks man. I'm just getting into taking the carp off for its dipping. If any thing I'll have a shinny hesitating 32 36 dgv. Thanks I'll keep you all updated as the day goes. Hmmmm I wounder if I should go dual su s? They look so sick. Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 The weber is about to go for an over night dip. That came off easy enough! If I had a dollar for every time I've said that while working on autos I'd be a rich man. I will try and put up video or at least oics of the disassemble and soak. Hope it goes back together as well and if it runs bonus! Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 OIC of the weber disassemble and bath. Quote Link to comment
808DA6 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Did you pull the main, air and idle jets? I don't see them on the table. Make double double sure you know where they go. Also, its not a bad idea to 'plane' the adapter plate to get it perfectly flat. However, you need to pull the studs out of it and remove it from the manifold which can open you up to cross-threaded holes so its purely up to you. High spots on an adapter plate or manifold can cause vac leaks tho. -Brian Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Why palne it. He said the motor was idleing at 500 rpm so you now its Ok Most people ovetighten those cheap adapters and crack them. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.